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Levi’s Denim Trucker Jacket Overview: Type I, II and III

As a reader and writer of Heddels, I’ve notice that denim jackets haven’t been getting nearly enough attention. Nudie‘s Perry 826 jacket , Iron Heart IH-526BJ  and our very own Fade Friday Flat Head 6002W all draw inspiration from the original style of Levi’s Type I,II and III jackets. There is no denying that these jackets contain a rich part in not only Levi’s history, but the history of denim as well.

Levi’s Type I Jacket

We’ll start with the Levi’s Type I jacket. This jacket first appeared in the early 1900’s and identifiable by its 506XX lot number. Early models had no front pocket flap and prior to the 1936 version, there was no infamous Big “E” red tab anywhere on the jacket.

Type I jackets also contain a pronged cinch-back or “clincher” located lower center of the jacket. These so called “clinchers” used a sliver buckle dating from the early 1900’s-late 1930’s, as once the 1940’s hit Levi’s started using bronze buckles to cut back on costs.

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1936 Levis Type I Jacket

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Sliver clinch buckle (left), Donuts hole buttons (right) were used during WWII has a method to save material (due to its hollow center)

Details:

  • Name: Levi’s 506XX “Type I Jacket”
  • Weight: 9 Oz.Unsanforized denim
  • Denim: 100% cotton Cone Mills selvedge Denim
  • Fit: Standard Fit
  • Additional Details:
    • Front Left Pocket
    • Exposed copper rivets
    • Knife pleats
    • Bovine Leather Patch
  • Available at: Unionmade

Levi’s Type II Jacket

Around 1953, Levi’s produced a modern interpretation of the Type I jacket, the 507XX and yes – you guessed it right, it was called, “Type II”. The main changes made to this jacket from its predecessor are the two patch pockets with button flap closure and bar tack stitching for reinforcement . In addition, the martingale was replaced by convenient waist adjusters on the hips.

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1953 Levi’s Type II Jacket

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Waist Adjuster (left) , Bar Tack Stitch (right)

Details:

  • Name: Levi’s 507XX “Type II Jacket”
  • Weight: 9 Oz.Unsanforized denim
  • Denim: 100% cotton Cone Mills selvedge Denim
  • Fit: Standard Fit
  • Additional Details:
    • Two Patch Pockets
    • Exposed copper rivets (Bar Tack  in later models)
    • Knife pleats
    • Press card label (later models)
    • Waist straps
  • Available at: Unionmade

Levi’s Type III Jacket

Last but not least, we have the “Type III” Jacket, which is probably the most recognizable jacket style. During the early 1960’s Levi’s introduced the 557XX, also known as the Trucker Jacket. This jacket was a complete modification from the previous jackets, coming in as the first jacket to feature the now famous pointed pocket flaps and a slim fitting cut.

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1967 Levi’s Type III Jacket (Rough Wash)

The 557 series evolved to the 70505, 71205 and 70518 based on its design. Some of the design change are as follows: The Big ‘E’ Type III range from the 50’s – 71 and Small ‘e’ Tab range from 72 – present. An alternative way to determine the difference in the period is by checking if there are two lower hand pockets. If yes: mid 80’s – present; if no: 50’s-Mid 80’s.

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1967 Levi’s Type III details

Details:

  • Name: Levi’s 557XX “Type III Jacket”
  • Weight: 14 Oz. preshrunk denim
  • Denim: 100% cotton Cone Mills selvedge Denim
  • Fit: Slim Fit
  • Additional Details:
    • Pointed pocket flaps
    • Copper shank buttons
    • Orange Stitching
    • Waist straps
  • Available at: Unionmade and Steve Alan