This is the third and last report from the Bread & Butter event in Berlin, Germany (for our previous instalments, see part I and part II). This time we will run the rule over a couple of Japanese brands, but also a few European brands that are getting good reviews.
This time as well we are including a relatively new brand from Italy, Scarti-Lab, proving that the popularity of dry denim is expanding quickly in Europe. We can’t wait for the next edition of this trade show and all the new releases and novelties offered by the best denim brands from around the globe.
Rising Sun & Co
The San Francisco-based company lead by Michael Hodis was presenting their products in one of the more authentic booths from the L.O.C.K. area – a vintage army tent. Last year they ran their booth from an old wood auto and unsurprisingly in both years, the booth was constantly visited.
Rumor had it that they had a couple of camo parkas made with original German fabric dating from the war era, prompting us to peek in and see not only the exceptional jackets but also the new jeans collection they were presenting.
Rising Sun & Co. is characterized by their a vintage aesthetic, keeping rigorously to the lines presented in clothing from earlier times.
The Real McCoy’s
We were shown around the The Real McCoy’s booth by Lewis Hull, the man behind Superdenim.co.uk and principal distributor of McCoy’s in Europe. Real McCoy’s and Joe McCoy together make up one of the biggest and most popular manufacturers of perfect replica-ware made in Japan.
The Real McCoy’s takes its inspiration from American military while sibling company, Joe McCoy, takes theirs from American work wear and sports. They are faithful to high quality standards and they always keep a compulsive eye on their level of attention to detail.
The denim highlights were commanded by the The Real McCoy’s sanforized Lot 004, a slim tapered fit made with a red selvedge and the Joe McCoy unsanforized Lot 991, a slim cut made from 14 oz. selvedge denim.
The Dutch jean makers were presenting a few new pieces at Bread & Butter, specifically the R7 VKB (R7 stands for 7 point pocket, a Denham signature) made from a virgin Kuroki Blue denim and featuring a few nice details like a one piece fly and dart leg shaping.
New Patrol and Universe cuts were also on exhibition, both made with virgin Okura denim. As usual, Jason Denham was exposing his collection in an innovative way and in the form of a back dark room only accessible via a couple small windows. The visitor had a cinematic view of the garments on display.
Despite being an originally Japanese brand, Edwin enjoys a strong presence in Europe. The UK and France lodge the principal retailers and headquarters of the brand. Their upcoming denim line-up is made up of different collections, though the standout has to be the DENIM is EDWIN(D.i.E.) made with Nihon Menpu denim. As usual, Edwin is showing versatility in their adaptations to new trends.
Scarti-Lab is based in Bologna, Italy but is definitely not the archetype Italian brand. Melissa Tarozzi and Gaetano Muccio are inspired by military, heritage and workwear, giving them a raw aesthetic which they push forwards by always experimenting with new cuts and materials.
They used Japanese fabrics in their new collection, and brought up their level of authenticity using indigo dyes in different shades. One outstanding detail is the tattooed leather patches on their jeans, something they can call their own signature.
The Japanese giant was presenting its new collection, with a wide range of blues on their non-denim garments and a great selection of raw denims iterating on their already popular 2000 and 2008 cuts. Evisu is currently planning an expansion into Europe, a dream already becoming a reality as their flagship store in London has recently opened up.
Their use of kimono sewing techniques and indigo dye collection are both standout and serve as proof that Evisu will not be resting on their laurels anytime soon.