Mohsin Sajid may be an unfamiliar name to some readers, but in the denim world he’s considered an authority on the subject of denim history, design, and construction. He shares much of the knowledge through his denim site, shitdenim, a source for those into all things denim. He has been immersed in the denim industry – working for established companies such as Levi’s and Evisu for the last twelve years – before dedicating the last two to working on creating his own brand, a hope of his for a long while.
Enter Endrime, pronounced “end-rhyme,” a name derived from the word for the earliest forms of Arabic love poetry. The effort is a labor of love for Sajid, an opportunity to take his affinity for denim into his own hands and make his own creative decisions.
Sajid has worked on creating a brand that sets itself apart from other companies producing premium denim, an effort reflected in not only the jeans, but also in the details involved. We could spend hours drooling over these details, as Sajid’s approach to design is self-described as “geeky”, creating a pant that satisfy any denim enthusiast with the plethora of intricacies.
He’s studied both antiquated and modern construction methods to create something new that also pays homage to its fore-bearers. Suffice it to say that this is not your traditional five-pocket jean collection.
A truly premium pair of jeans begins at the fabric level, and Endrime goes the extra mile’ offering multiple denim options for their cuts. All of their options are sourced from top-shelf Japanese mills, including Collect, Kaihara, Amhot, and Karabo.
There are few (if any) denim companies that consider ergonomics in their design, but it’s a focus for Sajid. In his mind, a pant should be both visually appealing and functional, and his knee-dart system is unlike anything we’ve seen before. The darts are used to create a true three-dimensional shape that fits around the knee for freedom of movement. Using dart manipulation, they have also done away with back-yoke seams in certain models.
Endrime uses a one-piece continuous fly, mostly selvedge, as a standard detail on all of their jeans; which offers not only a visual appeal but also an increased durability when compared with modern fly construction. The jeans also feature a selvedge indicator around the waistband so you can tell how wide your fabric is. Each leather patch is hand-branded by Sajid.
One of the brand’s key tenets is that the inside of the garment is just as important as the outside. A testament to this adage is the fact that every pocket bag is stamped with the exact machines used to make the pants. You’ll never be left wondering what exact machines might have been used in your jeans construction process.
Each pair also includes a history stamp, like that used by Hiut Denim, so the wearer can record the initial wear-date along with all of the washes. This is a detail that certainly appeals to those of us who meticulously record our wears and washes.
It wouldn’t be difficult to go on and on about all of the details (leather-backed rivets, felled seams, chain-stitching), but we’ll explore in greater detail in the future. Indeed, should you arm yourself with a pair of Endrime, you’ll quickly become acquainted with no-nonsense transparency of production.
Keep your eyes peeled for our forthcoming review of their denim, but until then, enjoy and explore the newly launched website, as well as their wonderfully shot look book below.