A few months ago, we introduced you to Endrime, brainchild of Mohsin Sajid, the experienced London-based designer of all things denim. The brand is new to the denim industry and unveiled its first collection this past autumn. It offers a number of cuts in some top-shelf Japanese denim from Collect, Amhot, Kuroki, Karabo, and Kaihara, aiming to pair stellar materials with “a balance of clean and complicated design”. Endrime has added more models and materials for their upcoming Spring/Summer ’14 collection.
The article sparked a lively debate not just about the particulars of the brand, but also about denim design in general. Much of the discussion focused upon the details of the MS0006, a jean which features a number of unconventional details, including Sajid’s knee-dart system—one of the most polarizing features among readers.
Considering all of the speculation regarding the jeans, I highly anticipated the opportunity to get a first-hand look and come to my own conclusions. When the signature box arrived on my doorstep, I wasted no time in unpacking them and trying them on. After wearing them for a couple weeks and examining them inside and out, here’s my take on the MS0006.
- Name: Endrime MS0006 Ergonomic Cinch Back Skinny Jeans
- Denim: Kaihara Mills 100% cotton 0541 red-line selvedge
- Fit: Skinny with a medium-high rise
- Weight: 16.5 Oz.
- Other details:
- Leather-backed rivets and buttons throughout
- Chain-stitched seams throughout
- Outside selvedge waistband cut from a continuous strip
- Machine stamps on pocket bags
- Ergonomic knee-dart system
- Selvedge pocket barrier
- Lined back pockets
- 14 Oz. selvedge pocket bags
- Available at: Endrime for £333.00
Although the MS0006 is offered in different fabrics, the denim for this particular pair comes from the well-respected Kaihara Mills.
At 16.5 Oz., it’s just on the light side of a heavyweight denim, but it is was in no way a struggle to get the denim on, even from the beginning (though this definitely has something to do with the knee-dart system; more on this later). The denim was comfortable from the outset, not too stiff with a fair amount of stretch. It has broken in nicely over the past couple of weeks.
The hand was smooth straight out of the box without much slub, but fibers started showing themselves within a few wears. Although I haven’t worn this pair every day, the denim has the beginnings of some fades, with a lighter blue showing through in the upper thigh area and rear pockets. The color is a deep indigo, at times appearing almost black, though a brighter blue comes through in direct light.
Hardware and Materials
It would be quite possible to write an entire review on just the hardware and materials of these jeans. Every rivet and button is custom-stamped with the brand logo. Many of the rivets have been treated to have a distressed, aged looked to them. All of the rivets are leather-backed, designed to add extra support in the high stress areas, and those on the back pockets are concealed. Likewise, the cinch on the back is reinforced. Each donut button on the fly is a different color, branded with the logo, and leather-backed. The leather patch is thick and features a hand-branded logo.
One of my favorite features of the jeans is the pocket-bags. They’re a solid 14 Oz. selvedge, and the back pockets are lined as well. Many of us have been through the hassle of ripping through our pocket bags, but there’s no danger with that happening on this pair.
As I said, I could go on about the hardware and materials, but suffice it to say that this aspect is a highlight of the jeans.
The biggest question-mark in my mind prior to trying on these jeans was definitely the fit—and for a number of reasons. The jeans feature dart manipulation in the knees as well two darts in the rear, which replace the yoke seam. In addition, I had never before worn a pair of jeans with a cinch.
I typically wear jeans with a tighter fit due to the fact that I’m very thin. I’m 5’11”, and I usually wear a 29-inch waist. As Endrime didn’t produce a 29 for this run, I was forced to size down to a 28. I was initially worried that the jeans would be too tight, but they actually have a lot of room in the waist, thighs, and rear. For touting the label “skinny,” they actually fit me more like a slim fit up above, though they do taper significantly below the knee. I utilized the cinch, tightening it a good deal, but they’re still rather loose in the waist and there’s a good deal of room in the seat.
It’s nothing uncomfortable, but definitely not my usual experience with a “skinny” jean. This may have to do with the lack of a yoke seam, but I couldn’t say as this is the first pair of pants I’ve worn which utilizes darts in lieu of the yoke seam. If you choose to pick up a pair, I would recommend staying true to size or even sizing down.
The most pronounced difference between these and other jeans, however, was undoubtedly the presence of the “knee dart system.” I was definitely apprehensive not only regarding the appearance but also the feel of the jeans. And, as expected, it took some getting used to. As I mentioned above, the jeans were easy to get on, even for the initial wear, and the knees contributed to this, as I never had to struggle to get my legs in (as I’m sure we all have time and again). The darts and the back seam behind the leg create space above the knee, which allows for more freedom of movement, but it also causes the knees to pucker slightly when the leg is extended, which does look odd compared to the average jean. I did get a few quizzical glances, and one guy actually asked, “What’s up with the knees on those jeans?”
The knees were also my sole discomfort in the breaking-in process. As you can see from the picture below, the darts create folds on the inside of the jeans on the outer part of the knee. These folds dug into my knees when my knees were bent, and after the first hour-and-a-half-long wear, they left grooves in the skin of my knees. As the folds are, of course, raw denim, this was not a pleasant experience. This became much less pronounced as I continued to wear the jeans, and it doesn’t bother me at all now, but it’s definitely something to consider.
Sajid describes his approach to design as geeky, and this comes through clearly in the construction of the jeans. The attention to detail is a denim enthusiast’s dream. I literally turned the jeans inside-out to get a look at all of the features. There is selvedge detailing nearly everywhere you look, both inside and out, with unique characteristics like a one-piece continuous selvedge fly, a selvedge waistband, and even a selvedge pocket barrier. The selvedge out seam is super narrow, a unique touch. There is also chain stitching throughout, even in places you would never think to look, like the button holes, and no over lock stitching at all. There are either felled seams or herringbone tape finish throughout.
For the total and complete denim geek, there is a machine-stamped pocket bag where you can note every machine used to construct your jeans, and on the opposite pocket bag, there is a space for you to record your start date and all the dates of your washes, along with QR codes that take you to shitdenim, Sajid’s website, and the brand’s website.
Everything on the jean is impeccably constructed, with nothing out of line or loose. After a few weeks of wear, everything has held in place and looks like it did on day one.
I’ve never encountered a pair of pants designed and constructed with such attention to detail. The outside and the inside reflect a passion for the intricacies of design and execution. The jeans also reflect a desire to go beyond the tried-and-true—some might say boring—ways of creating jeans. Without risk, without deviation from the norm, there is no progress.
As impressed as I am with the MS0006, I will be the first to say that they’re certainly not for everyone. There are many people within the raw denim community who are more than happy with a solid 5-pocket pair of jeans, no added details necessary, and there’s nothing wrong with that. These jeans are not for those people; it’s clear that with this particular jean Endrime is not targeting the average denim consumer but rather one who wishes to get lost in the details of denim design and construction.
There is also, of course, the issue of the knee-darts (which were, as mentioned, at the center of the debate a few months ago). Even a consumer who drools over the other details may balk at such an unconventional design practice. I’ll admit that they certainly give the jeans a different appearance (and they were pretty uncomfortable at the beginning). As I mentioned, I like to see designers trying out new ideas in the pursuit of progress, and I’m interested to see how the darts will develop with continual wear and just how much they will actually affect the ergonomics of the jeans. Only time will tell at this point.
With all of the details included on the jeans and the amount of time and work that goes in to each pair, it’s no surprise that the price point is significantly higher than most jeans on the market; Sajid makes no attempt to hide the fact that these jeans are for the “ultra-premium” denim consumer. For the denim enthusiast who has his fair share of five-pocket, standard-block jeans and wants to try something new and is willing to drop a fair amount of cash to do so, Endrime‘s MS0006 just may be the answer.