New York Market Week AW16: Liberty Fairs, Part 1
The last stop on this season’s market week journey is actually a two-parter. From the Liberty Fairs floor, there was plenty to see. So, read on for a continued look into the menswear crystal ball.
You might remember Thrux Lawrence for making jeans a little while back. Successful as that project was, his transition into leather goods is even more so. Using heavy duty leather and canvas, founder Tanden Launder produces his goods in his hometown of Coeur D’Alene, Idaho. The Bulwark Belts caught our attention as it uses a single piece of cut brass with the prong incorporated into the buckle itself. Like the Macbook unibody, but for a belt buckle.
Operating from a more tailored perspective, Shockoe Atelier brought a lot of texture to the show. With super neppy 2×1 denim done in a pleated jean as well as a button-up shirt, beyond hairy 90% cotton 10% wool jeans, several double-faced quilted indigo pieces, alpaca herringbone coats, and more, there was a lot to feel.
From soy waxed jackets, to iron-oxide dyed knits, Story Mfg‘s collection of goods are made entirely with natural fibers and materials. This year’s collection is based off of an imaginary trek the pair had made from the UK to France with much of the patterns inspired by English weather.
Williamsburg Garment Company
For you long-legged and stack-loving denimheads, Williamsburg Garment Company has got your lengthy limbs covered with standard inseams of 38 inches. Because of the intense winter storms that bludgeoned the East Coast just before the shows, however, we weren’t able to see much of the new goodies coming from the Brooklyn-based brand. There was, though, an intense hybrid of a raw denim shirt with details from a trucker jacket and pockets aplenty.
Made Solid did indeed have a solid collection of handcrafted leather goods on display this season. And we do literally mean hand crafted. The tray with irregular edges is made by shaping the wet leather by hand for a very wabi sabi result. Taking extra steps to use every bit leftover leather, they’re also making ornamental leather dogs. And if you were to name these inanimate canines, what would it be? Scraps, of course.
Dave Himel of Himel Bros has been making some of the most beautiful and indestructible leather jackets around. This season alone saw several dozen new styles. And even though we couldn’t cover it all, we’re partial to the glazed deer skin piece with the cathedral back.
One thing we know from walking the shows is that pleats are back. Dickies 1922 is even playing the game with a pair of denim pleated trousers. A small look into their inspiration was a vintage French work jacket. Originally dyed benzo blue, it’s now faded into a beautiful gradient of grayish blue.
One of the most interesting brands this season is the Japanese label Shuttle Notes. Their inspiration this season comes from the American classic Taxi starring Robert DeNiro. Mixing military fabrics into familiar silhouettes (and a running motif involving a woven mermaid patch), the collection does US military through a Japanese lens.
The heritage knitwear brand came to New York with some surprises. Several types of N-1 jackets including a selvedge denim piece with sheep’s wool were among the pieces hanging. And, if you ever wanted a weekender bag knit with the same hearty and durable Dehen 1920 fabric, you will soon have your way.
One of these cardigans is brand new, and the other is several decades older. Can you tell which one? Even up close, it’s difficult to tell. Trust us. The knit on the vintage cardigan is still in such good condition that you’d be hard pressed in believing it’s age. A head scratcher that got us going was that the vintage Dehen cardigan, in typical fashion, has no side seams. However, it also has no shoulder seams.