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Hong-Kong's-Take5-The-Ultimate-Japanese-Denim-Destination

Of Price and Yen – The Effects of Japanese Retailers Selling Abroad

Apr 19, 2017 | Op-Ed | by David Shuck
Comments

When I was a kid, my parents would always bring back Toblerone bars from their trips abroad. This was at a time when the triangular Swiss chocolate bars could only be found at certain specialty shops and ran six to seven bucks a pop, while abroad they could be picked up for about two. The price discrepancy was a product of a variety of factors–import fees, shipping costs, low volume–but if there was a way I could have bought Toblerones at their foreign prices in the States, I would have been a very unhealthy child.

In the world of raw denim, however, my childhood dream has been realized. Merv Sethi grew up in Japan but spent his college years in Boston, Massachusetts. He remembers, “There was essentially zero access to Japanese selvedge denim in that city, or many cities across the US. After trying desperately to get a pair of jeans I wanted (at a fair price for a broke college kid to afford), I always ended up copping pairs when I went back home to Japan every summer/winter vacation to get the jeans I wanted at the price I was willing to pay.”

Sethi saw a monetizable evolution of this habit realized in January of 2012 when he opened Okayama Denim, an online webstore dedicated to making Japanese denim more accessible to global consumers. In his words, “The way to do this was to position ourselves in Japan to save on shipping costs and taxes/duties, and ship globally to customers hungry for a fair price/quality ratio.” For the past few years, denim fans from all over the world have been able to pick up their favorite Japanese brands at near their Japanese prices.

Japan-Blue-ODJB006-18oz.-Snow-Slub-Jeans-leather-patch

Okayama Denim collab Snow Slub Jeans with Japan Blue.

Sethi wasn’t alone—megasites like Rakuten had long been catering to foreigners with an appetite for Japanese goods (even if their labyrinthine site design turned off many westerners), but other boutique sites like Denimio went after those outside of Japan explicitly.

For example, at the time of writing, Pure Blue Japan XX-18oz.-013 jeans are $350 at Blue in Green in New York City and $250 at Denimio. Studio D’artisan SD-107 jeans are $275 at Self Edge‘s all over North America, but $230 at Okayama Denim, and $210 at Denimio. You can make the comparison with any number of models.

Pure Blue Japan's XX-18oz-013 for sale at Denimio (left) and Blue in Green (right).

Pure Blue Japan’s XX-18oz-013 for sale at Denimio (left) and Blue in Green (right).

The reason the Japanese stores can offer cheaper prices than their western counterparts is threefold:

First, all non-Japanese retailers have to pay an import tariff on all goods coming into their country for commercial sale. In the case of denim jeans from Japan entering the United States, that’s a little over 16%. That cost is mitigated for Japanese retailers as Americans no longer have to pay import fees on anything valued less than $800. Even if customers did have to pay, that tariff isn’t factored into the price tag (although Denimio does have a somewhat suspect DIY option to mark whatever value you want on your package’s customs label).

ems package

Orders under $800 do not have to pay a customs or import fee.

Second, non-Japanese retailers have to pay for the shipping to get product from Japan to their country before putting it up for sale and then again with free shipping to domestic online customers. Many Japanese retailers also offer free shipping, which is more expensive than domestic but they’re only paying for one trip rather than two.

And third, the Japanese outlets mentioned are conducting their foreign sales exclusively online, while most foreign retailers also have physical stores. The Japanese stores, therefore, can accept lower margins due to the lack of overhead cost that comes with retail space and store clerks. This also means that their prices can fluctuate with global currency changes more easily than their brick and mortar counterparts, as they can change all of their prices with a few keystrokes instead of marking up all the tags in the store. The prices on Denimio’s goods, for example, change daily depending on currency variance.

The wall of denim at Blue in Green. Image via NY Times.

The wall of denim at Blue in Green. Image via NY Times.

There are still loads of people that are going to shop at brick and mortar shops, but if you live far away from any physical retailers and your purchase is coming in the mail either way, what’s the motivation to order from a domestic store if the exact same product costs $50-$100 less overseas? That’s far more than a marginal cost difference, and it’s not unreasonable to assume that more and more folks will migrate their purchases to the best price.

This is in no way a persecution or condemnation of how these Japanese retailers operate—they are completely within their rights and their legal ability to run their businesses. These practices, however, are overtly enabled by the brands and wholesalers who allow it to happen.

I spoke with a representative for a Japanese denim brand that’s involved with many of these stores who wished to remain nameless. They mentioned that consumers buying directly from Japan, “Are [sic] serious problem for us. Some overseas retailers stop to carry our brand. So difficult to grow our business for overseas.” In relation to having a suggested retail price, “We offer to suggesting [sic] retail price for each country. But not forcibly.” And, they noted, western customers shouldn’t necessarily be buying their products directly from Japan, “Our jeans is not just fashion, include culture [sic]. So we need shop staff introduce our brand story to customer directly.”

Blue Owl Workshop

Inside Blue Owl Workshop, a Seattle-based boutique that sells many Japanese denim brands.

This practice seems counter-intuitive. Many of the brands involved with these stores are also actively pursuing wholesale accounts with non-Japanese retailers, but what retailer is going to want to stock a brand when they know their prices can’t compete from the outset? These market conditions have undoubtedly stunted the retail growth of Japanese denim brands around the world, along with the sales figures of their biggest western evangelists.

I’m reminded of the Massdrop and Momotaro/Japan Blue mess a few years ago. Massdrop, an online group buy site, had a wholesale purchase of Vintage Label Momos, which retail for $295. They wanted to sell the jeans to their members for a one-time only price of $170, but domestic Momotaro retailers cried foul and the company backed out of the deal because it would be “too much of a discount” and “lower brand value.” Yet Vintage Label 0701 Momotaros are currently $212 at Denimio and $220 at Okayama Denim, while they still cost $295 at Blue Owl in Seattle.

I can’t speak for the other denim brands involved, but it does seem dissonant for Momotaro to cancel the Massdrop deal in the interest of maintaining their brand value while allowing Japanese retailers to sell to North American customers for 25% less than the North American MSRP.

I spoke with another brand Japanese brand that is more insistent on maintaining clear prices abroad, Iron Heart. Giles Padmore handles all of the international distribution for the brand from his base in Gosport, England.

He recalls setting up the model for the brand,

“We had a choice – sell only online or recruit retailers and sell both online and also in bricks-and-mortar stores. We made the decision that making Iron Heart available to a few specialist retailers, who understand the history and appeal of Japanese denim, would spread our reach and give more access to the consumer…The key issue with having a retailer network is that our retailers also have to make money, and there is a minimum mark-up they need to make to cover their overheads and achieve a profit. In our business that is between 2 and 2.5X.”

Shinichi Haraki and Giles Padmore (right), the two "bosses" at Iron Heart. Image via Dylan Mayes.

Shinichi Haraki and Giles Padmore (right), the two “bosses” at Iron Heart. Image via Dylan Mayes.

And all the costs he describes that go into the mark-up calculations are very real:

“We have to pay for the goods, ship to retailers worldwide, and for all goods coming via the UK for us and European retailers we pay import taxes (goods dropped shipped from Japan to non-European retailers also attract taxes)—and we have to mark our imports at the real landed cost of goods, plus shipping for taxation purposes (if we undervalue, then we risk prosecution, having our premises locked down and our company not allowed to trade).

“We have calculated a wholesale cost that gives us a fair margin and a retail price that allows the retailer also to make a fair margin. If we get either of those wrong, we do not have a business. That wholesale price is the same for all our international retailers. The recommended retail price is also the same everywhere outside of Japan, which our retailers are happy to support. Once you have retailers trying to undercut each other you end up having internecine warfare with a battle to zero. We simply can’t have that. To maintain the health of our brand, we need all parties in the supply chain to be making reasonable margins.

“Many of my retailers would like prices to be higher (they can sell higher than IHUK [Iron Heart UK] if they choose to, and some do because many customers are happy to pay a small premium for being able to try the clothes in a store). However, if they consistently undercut IHUK (and therefore all our other worldwide retailers who support our pricing), we will discuss this with them and will probably stop supplying them. The absolute key is to maintain harmony within the retail ecosystem.”

Many retailers sing the praises of Iron Heart’s strict adherence to international pricing. And if you check their international retailers, all of their pricing remains nearly identical all across the globe. A strategy like Padmore describes might seem counterintuitive, but it’s kept his business afloat and retailers stable for over a decade.

On the other hand, Japanese retailers can tolerate much lower margins on Japanese products and, if need be, they can price those products lower than their international counterparts can tolerate–and they have every right to do so. But the consequence is that it dried out the market for retailers that have had no choice but to price themselves higher, and now they’re selling those brands less and less.

Last month, Okayama Denim announced that in accordance to the manufacturer, they (along with other online retailers) would be raising their prices on Pure Blue Japan products to match western retailers. And in a statement on the price revisions to Heddels, Pure Blue Japan’s founder Ken-ichi Iwaya explains that the brand will be temporarily suspending international online sales entirely. He describes PBJ’s steady growth in accounts and production capacity, but:

“As the sales of our product grew with brick & mortar as well as online stores, we began receiving comments from our accounts and even actual customers of our products concerning the price disparity amongst neighboring regions.

“Our initial starting point spans back to the opportunity presented to us by International [western] accounts. Our very existence comes into question without their support in the first place. Our feelings of gratitude toward them are not easily expressed by words alone, and many of these business relationships have grown over the years to become close family friends. It is possible that the cultural characteristic of being Japanese lends to attaching greater importance to “debt of gratitude” when compared to other countries. Perhaps this feeling may have unintentionally affected us to prioritize our brick & mortar accounts over the online stores.

Kenichi Iwaya of Pure Blue Japan. Image via M4CC.

Kenichi Iwaya of Pure Blue Japan. Image via M4CC.

“We recognize that this pricing revision has caused significant concern to our clientele due to a lack of transparency. In an attempt to improve the current contentious situation, we have made the decision to revert to the basics and temporarily suspend our international online sales. We understand that this decision will unfortunately cause an inconvenience to our international customers, as our products will be temporarily unavailable to officially purchase online.

“We will likely need due time to resolve countless issues, such as selection of accounts with an understanding of mutual benefit, improvement of price reductions, clarification of legal compliance issues, etc. We will do our earnest best to restart our sales as soon as possible. As the founder of the company, I (Kenichi Iwaya), take full responsibility for this issue at hand, and deeply regret any confusion this may have caused.”

I don’t imagine many of the people in the raw denim game have degrees in economics (I certainly don’t) but it’s easy to see how the international raw denim trade is an incredibly complicated system. Even if everyone’s acting with the best of intentions, the bottom can still fall out of the market.

Perhaps this whole tale is another example of fashion’s cyclical nature. Exclusivity, obscurity, and rarity first fueled the hunt for Japanese jeans in the west. Today, many of those barriers have all but disappeared and new brands and products now have that same allure. New York City’s original Japanese denim retailer, Blue in Green, sells a fraction of the Momotaro, Oni, Eternal, and Full Count they once did, and seems to have stopped selling SDA entirely – all of which are available at Denimio, Okayama Denim, Rakuten, or all three. In their place you’ll find Camoshita, Mountain Research, and SVD–names that probably sound just as just as obscure as what they carried ten years ago.

In related news, you can now buy Toblerone for a dollar-seventy a bar on Amazon, but I’ve yet to make the purchase.

Tags: blue in green, denim, iron heart, japan, pure blue japan
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  • Bobby Davis

    Blue in Green stopped selling Samurai as well. The Japanese jeans makers along with the Blue in Greens of this thing are pricing themselves out of the game. Nobody is going to pay $400 for a non limited edition. In all honesty the only jeans that are worth the money is the PBJ NC011 with the left hand twill because they actually stay black and the fade lines are actually visible. Like they say there is a sucker born every minute, someone will pay $400 for some denim.

    • Mugenlove

      PBJ NC011- What do you mean by stay black and – fade lines visible. So the it actually does fade?

      • Bobby Davis

        Yes. They fade to a lighter shade of black. It is actually dope and fresh when you actually see it. I love them so much I may get another pair.

  • kemendi

    “Even if customers did have to pay, that tariff isn’t factored into the price tag (although Denimio does have a somewhat suspect DIY option to mark whatever value you want on your package’s customs label).”
    I wonder about the legality of this option. Even it’s marked by the customer, it’s issued by Denimio and it is not matching the real invoiced price, then it’s a fraud. In Europe, for instance, this can result a +29-33% price difference against a properly imported purchase, either directly by the end customer or through retailer.

  • pastramiboy

    also the price disparity is larger at the top end. I just bought my first really crazy expensive jeans after wearing gustin and shit, and the difference between Rakuten and Self-Edge was about 30%. That is way too much of a mark-up. And i love Kiya, his staff and his stores, but still!

  • Nihonjinninja

    A one sided publicity piece in support of your primary advertisers. I’m really disappointed that Heddels has gone this low on this one and not explored the other side: customers benefiting from the competition and access to more models, denim companies in Japan reaching customers through online channels where they haven’t been able to secure a strong physical retail presence or a retail presence at all (which could mean much bigger $ for them), ignoring the obvious fact that as long as there is that big a price gap black secondary resale markets will develop (which is probably not good for the denim brands either) or interviewing denim companies that are perfectly happy with the system. The writer is not seeing the numbers from the companies involved so the piece is plagued with pretty significant assumptions. For example, the assumption that the people who run the companies that are embracing online sales from Japan are stupid because this is “undoubtedly stunting their growth” is patronizing and petulant BS. Pretty sure those guys that have been running the business for decades know their numbers and understand this better than the writer or anyone else. The author could have at least acknowledged that everything points to this system working for some brands. So maybe it does for some and not for others? Maybe for some it’s more emotional because they want customers to experience a retail experience. Maybe for some the growth is in new untapped markets where it’s harder to get physical retailers?

    The one-sided use of adverbs of certainty to get the author’s point across makes it all the more obvious that this is simply publicity. I acknowledge that this is an Op-Ed piece, but passing things as certain and absolute facts when they are clearly not, is dubious at best.

    Shame on the author too for conducting poor journalism and not checking simple stuff. There’s been plenty of people that have posted about their visits to Denimio’s physical retail shop (have not been myself, but I recall seeing photos and it’s not a random warehouse). Pretty sure the writer could have just Googled that. They clearly have overhead and in Japan, where labor and real estate are both expensive.

    End of rant. I will continue to do whatever is better for me. Have had good experiences with both OD and Denimio, and if they stop selling a brand I like, i know I’ll be heading to rakuten or just use a proxy to get it for me from Japan to same some bucks. Globalization son!

    • Darrin Mariott

      This “Slant” is the Heddels MO. As it is often said, “don’t let facts get in the way of a good story”.

    • Deneurim

      Totally agreed. The first option (a 9% tariff) is, in my opinion, the only argument in the piece that holds weight for a price increase (and I’d happily shop at brick and mortar stores with a ten percent hike). Clearly, all retailers in japan have to deal with overhead, so the relevant comparison is the JPY price on these items that are offered at a myriad of stores in japan (which we pay shipping on, too, if we order from Rakuten). And if it is really the case that these prices are hiked because b and m stores in the US offer free domestic shipping, then don’t offer free domestic shipping and sell at a competitive price. I’ll also concede that maybe there’s some uncertainty in the JPY-USD conversion and this could push the price a little higher, too. But still, I can’t actually possibly rationalize anything greater than a 15 or 20% increase though. Some of this must be because this is a ‘luxury’ good and many customers will pay for the exoticness of the item, ignorant of these other factors.

    • Bobby Davis

      Don’t depend on Rakuten for too long man.

  • Self Edge – Kiya

    “In the case of denim jeans from Japan entering the United States, that’s between 9.1% and 10%.”

    This is incorrect, legally importing jeans into the United States costs between 17% and 24% when using a commercial freight importing company due to all the fees you have to pay on top of all the base governmental taxes.

  • ZhoraGosha

    Either way you ARE paying for the labor, for the process, for the entourage and for the brand, fancy pics and videos from the shop too, and for the jeans qualities in the end, is it not worth extra 50 bucks?? How much will you end up saving a year, compared to your earningsexpences?? If you don’t give sh*t, go buy double s and o brand – they offer load of fancy Chinese and Japanese material options for third of the price. BUT if you want have the whole experience, a piece of mind in your hand which expands beyond pants that doesn’t break disgustingly and quickly AND you want to buy AT HOME product made OVERSEAS and you CAN – buy the damn thing, that is if those are jeans, some vintage hardened iron, a true prop from Star Wars or a first edition book…..at the suited location for the purchase, if this applies, with all the stuff and warranties etc. IMO

    • Bobby Davis

      No matter how you break it down, what they are selling is not worth the price. Nobody is not going to pay $400 dollars for a non limited edition. The only denim that is worth the money is the pbj nc011 and the samurai organic cotton series. So you’re telling me you will pay $1000 for a pbj jacket? Yes they have one for that amount. The jeans should not be priced over $250 unless it’s organic cotton or hand dyed natural indigo, that should be $275 at least.

      • ZhoraGosha

        “Fair” price point might be up for a debate, but again, you aren’t paying for the raw materials only, bet you know it. I mostly talk about that it isn’t a way to make business, when someone takes all the risks shouldn’t be rewarded for this with some reasonable profit and a fair perspective to get it, depending only on what they do and not on the lowered domestic prices sold internationally. Price on the spot and at your town can be the same only in case all parties will raise prices, other option downwards is non-viable, if we want the game as it is – fancy jeans with fancy process sold to you in a fancy way in a fancy locationstyled dumpsterwhatever))) Like, premium human experience, part of which premium jeans are, IMO 🙂

      • ZhoraGosha

        About “the jacket” – I simply think that this part of the market is more of a reasonable smart luxury stuff in the best meaning of this terrible word, so price point should not be crazy, but shouldwould not be the sole driving force behind the buy. Keeping this market intact and with all it’s uniqueness also lets private denim artisans work, being priced high, but not that high compared to retail shops. Most guys have less sales than shops, but the experience value and price gaps with all the other players make them be able to exist too. Here I am being 100% biased)) So, we still need all the players.

  • ZhoraGosha

    Globalization – OK, like do you buy those fancy jeans because you NEED them??? Globalization and driving costs down is inevitable BUT we still crave for p2p experience and you simply shouldn’t devalue that. Also we have fancy clocks, cars, property, food and …jeans. I fail to grasp how can someone justifying 400 bucks pants can bitch (do not confuse with one striving to buy at lowest price with EVERYTHING same in the proccess, like between two online shops etc.) about paying for the place, providing experience and warranties for the transaction? It’s all about what is important to the top customer and fair share of profits for every player – whether it is production, retail of online sales, balancing which IS reasonable and smart for everyone.

  • Steeex

    The article and most comments are sadly written with view that raw denim is either for Japanese or Americans. So, what about the rest of the world, where access to brick and mortar stores is limited at best? Why should a Brazilian, Swedish or Australian customer pay the markups to keep those guys happy? The world is changing, the global online retail train has long left the station. Brands that will try to resist it to protect their old business model and partners will only end up in blood and tears. Don’t get me wrong, I am willing to pay (and long have been paying) premium prices, but I want to pay for quality and better wages to the people involved in the making of the products, not retailers that can only serve a certain percentage (and shrinking) of the global customer base…

    • Lucas Azevedo

      Brazil is out of the raw denim game either way. Our import tariff is pretty much 100% on cost of goods + shipping. Doesn’t matter if you buy online as a customer or you import as a store, you’re going to have to deal with that and pretty much sell for double the price of the international market. We just buy when we travel.

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