FDMTL’s new lookbook for fall/winter just dropped, and designer Gaku Tsuyoshi is sticking to plan.

Founded in 2005, FDMTL has made a name for itself as an employer of traditional Japanese techniques and materials, with a particular focus on the sort of details that would otherwise preclude themselves from mass production. And its articles have spread to western shops faster than other Japanese brands, as the line also happens to favor the western frame. That westward momentum has birthed some unexpected collaborations — like the well-received one with Vans — which have helped further spread the brands reach.

Well, if it ain’t broke, don’t fix it. For Fall/Winter ’17 Gaku and the gang are offering up plenty more patchwork, boro and sashiko, all in silhouettes that exist somewhere between the wacky nature of Kapital and the refined nature of Blue Blue Japan. And that means the average Yank should be able to pull just about any of it off with ease.