With all the covetable stuff out there it’s good to have some rules at play. And really, when I say rules I suppose I mean limitations (but saying you have a self imposed limitation sounds like you have a problem so I’m sticking with rules). Teardrop holes, not circular holes. That’s my rule when it comes to belts. Hardware, materials, color, width, those are all variations upon a theme. But teardrop holes, those will ensure the prong isn’t battling your belt, in turn allowing the leather to lay flatter, which provides a better fit.
Iron Heart is on the same page, as they have included teardrops on the successor to their wildly popular IHB-02 belt. They’ve furthered perfected the design with its successor, the IHB-07-BRS, really upping the ante by adding a brass ‘Chicago’ screw construction, which allows you to reduce the strap length as needed. The strap is notably made of leather from the famed Tochigi tannery, and regardless of color choice — black, brown or natural — it comes with a solid brass garrison buckle.
$200 at Iron Heart.