Market Week Fall/Winter 2018: Man Show
Trade show coverage continues with the last leg of the trade shows: the Man show. I always feel weird telling people, “I’m going to the Man Show.” I’m afraid that they might think that I’m going to a live taping of a Man Show reboot. Instead, this Man Show involves way more clothes, and just a little less beer. Though you won’t actually see much beer coverage, trust me — it was there. I did, however, cover the clothes.
Though there wasn’t anything quite as crazy as the translucent stingray leather shoes of last season, Viberg‘s latest endeavors are a continued display of their luxurious cordwainery. They’ve acquired vulcanizing machines to allow them to produce sneakers in-house. They’re also introducing wholecut boots, Jodhpurs, camel leather, shearling-lined hikers, and, for the first time, brogues.
Blluemade‘s collection of linen-based garments casually walks the line between workwear and elevated minimalism. The focus is squarely set on quality materials, and though their mainstay has been linen, they’ve gone on to introduce wool and ramie for this season.
Venerable sock brand, Anonymous Ism, continues to mine every corner of the sock world. Terry loop linen socks, camo of every spot and stripe, African-inspired prints, tie dye, and more are making their way to an ankle near you.
Velva Sheen presses further into their vintage roots this season. Known for producing top quality tube knit t-shirts as far back as the early 1930s, Velva Sheen is also known for screen printing countless t-shirts. With a little searching, you can find vintage Velva Sheen t-shirts emblazoned with the likes of Mickey Mouse and various small-town eateries, and local sports teams. They’re bringing back that old graphic tradition with screenprinted tees, baseball jackets, and sweatshirts all of which age and crackle with time.
If you ever get a chance to see the Nine Lives pieces in person, they are really something else. If you ever get to meet Ian and Kay from Nine Lives, they’ll convince you to empty out your entire life savings just for a single jacket. The Type II/ Type III hybrid of a jacket is interesting enough on its face, but it wasn’t until they dropped some PK — that’s product knowledge for you non-retail folks — that my brain was promptly ejected through my scalp. The fabric is actually an indigo x indigo canvas that’s been heat treated so the dye turns out black. Look underneath, and you’ll see it’s also lined with rabbit fur. Ian says he likes to wear it with a tank top and a gold chain. It’s really the only acceptable way to do it. There’s also a faux fur version, if that’s more your speed.
You’ll also see more pieces rendered in chunky sashiko, candy-colored kasuri dyed denim, and German kipp leather jackets.
If there’s one thing the guys at Eat Dust want you to know, it’s that they don’t make motorcycle clothes. Sure, they love motorcycles and ride them on occasion, but it’s not like their clothes have any kevlar or reflective bits. Take the cowichan-style cardigans with the thunderbird pattern. It’s fully fashioned, super thick, and surprisingly soft. Even better news is that they’ve made a version for women.
With a full lean into the 1970s, Eat Dust is also producing a broken twill selvedge denim jean in a bootcut fit. Not sure if anyone will be wearing their Red Wings with these groovy blue jeans, but let us know if you do.
Like the culinary ways of their home country, Arpenteur‘s clothing is equally as technical. Focusing on vintage French garments, they’ve made a name for themselves in a sea of Japanese and American brands. Limiting their color palette to brown, grey, white, and navy, Arpenteur’s focus is on fabric and construction.
Their continued use of rachel machines will see everything from the classic breton stripe shirt to heavy wool long coats. You’ll also see a pullover based off of a vintage French mountain parka from the 1970s, and fleece-lined vests with inspiration from military life vests.
And that wraps up this season’s coverage. What are you excited to see in stores? Until next season, start saving up!