Five Plus One is our weekly series of buyer’s guides. We pick a specific category and dig up five great options along with one that’s a little outside the norm.
For many denimheads a denim’s texture is its most important quality. While slubbiness, hairiness, and loom chatter are all good, nothing beats those beautiful beads of nep. We’ve explored Neppy Denim before, and while many of those jeans are now sold out our love for nep remains. Join us as we travel down the denim-nep road, and hopefully, you’ll end up with a new pair of raws.
1) Railcar: Flight Trouser
Railcar’s Flight Trousers are one of the most compelling offerings on the market. Not only are they constructed from a beautiful, 12oz. Japanese selvedge denim that features a heck of a lot of nep, but they’re patterned to be slightly more trouser-like. While they remain a casual pant, they’re certainly a bit easier to dress up than most pairs of jeans. They’re finished with tonal stitching, a zip fly, and traditional jean-style belt loops.
Available for $198 at Railcar Fine Goods.
2) Pure Blue Japan: NP-019
While some denims are positively overflowing with nep, Pure Blue Japan went a more subtle route with their NP-019 jeans. While hard to make out from the photos these jeans have plenty of irregularities both in the form of slub and nep, which makes each pair unique even before they’re worn in. Each pair is finished with iron buttons, a deerskin patch, and PBJ’s iconic leaf embroidery on the back pocket.
Available for $325 at Rivet and Hide.
3) Rogue Territory: 12oz. Neppy
Regardless of what your favorite Rogue Territory fit is, they’ve got you covered with their 12oz. Neppy line of jeans. As the name implies, they’re constructed from an ultra-neppy 12oz. denim that looks like your new jeans have been lightly covered by a light, winter snow. While the fabric is certainly the start of the show, these jeans are constructed with all the great details you’d expect from a RgT pair: lasso back pocket stitching, rear pen pocket, and tucked belt loops.
Available for $189 at Rogue Territory.
4) Oni: 622ZR Secret Denim
It’s hard to discuss neppy denim without a nod toward Oni and their famous Secret Denim, as seen in their 622ZR jeans. The fabric for this pair features a deep, timeless hue of indigo and is left unsanforized to give even more texture once soaked. While not as neppy as some of the other jeans on this list, they also feature a ton of other textural irregularities to give them that much sought after character.
Available for $224 at Denimio.
5) Studio D’Artisan: Nep Denim Jeans
Studio D’Artisan has offered many great, neppy jeans over the jeans, and their newest Nep Denim Jeans are no different. Made from a 15oz. unsanforized Japanese denin these jeans are designed to accentuate the beautify of their fabric, which features a deep indigo color and light, white neps. They’re constructed with hidden rivets, tucked belt loops, jacquard pocket bags, and a triple stitched yoke.
Available for $345 at Self Edge.
Plus One — Naked and Famous: Lord of Nep
If Rogue Territory’s neppy denim looks like new jeans after a light snow, Naked and Famous’ Lord of Nep jeans must have gotten caught in a blizzard. Available in three different fits, these jeans were custom designed from the ground-up to achieve the level of neppiness before us today. And if that’s not enough these jeans are even selvedge, which is often not the case with neppier denims. While these certainly aren’t your everyday jeans they’re fade beautifully if you wear them in hard enough.
Available for $218 at Tate and Yoko.