Five Plus One is our weekly series of buyer’s guides. We pick a specific category and dig up five great options along with one that’s a little outside the norm.
While double knee denim is incredibly practical in actual workwear it has struggled to make its way into the world of fashion. An extra panel is sewn to the front of the jean to ensure you don’t bust through the knee, a fate that so often befalls those that work physical jobs.
That said, there are an ever increasing number of brands making raw denim jeans in this style; regardless of what exactly you are looking for from your next pair of raws we hope this list helps inspire you to dig a little deeper into all that is available.
1) Rogue Territory: Copper Anniversary Double Knee Stanton
Rogue Territory has some of the best, standard offerings out there, but when they go all-out on a specialized product they really go all out. Their Copper Anniversary Double Knee Stanton is one such piece, featuring a great, everyday indigo denim that is made that much better with its double knee. The stitching on this pair is tonal, which means the double knee is really brought to attention by the copper rivets at its corners. All of RT’s regular details are there, such as their pen pocket, silk screened pocket bags, and tucked belt loops, but with the added durability of double knees.
Available for $275 from Berkeley Supply.
2) Grease Point Workwear: Work Jean in Double Indigo Selvedge
Grease Point Workwear is one of those brands that has stayed under the radar for many, but hopefully that won’t be the case for much longer. If you’re into more workwear-looking workwear, then GPW might be the answer. They offer a ton of double knee denims, such as this Work Jean in Double Indigo Selvedge, and they all have fantastic details. This pair features back pockets lined with 12oz. canvas, a right knife pocket, and slanted front pockets inspired by clothing of the early twentieth century. While double knee denim isn’t going to appeal to everyone this is one brand you aren’t going to want to look past if it is your style.
Available for $329 from Grease Point Workwear.
3) Iron Heart: AWC 602DR Tradesman
Iron Heart used to offer jeans with double knees but lately they have been hard to come by. That’s why we’re so lucky to have Division Road stocking the AWS 602DR Tradesman; while yes, technically these are made of a non-denim selvedge twill, that doesn’t mean they don’t fit into the exact same aesthetic as some of the other pairs on this list. These blacks twill pants feature tonal stitching, which again masks the double knees exact for the reinforcing rivets, and the fact that they are 11oz. means the knees won’t feel quite as thick as they would on some other pairs. With a zippered fly and no leather patch, these pants are really something unique.
Available for $365 from Division Road.
4) Eternal: 52201ow 5 Pocket Pant
Many Japanese denim brands offer double knee denim, especially if they are more focused on workwear, but Eternal’s 52201ow 5 Pocket Pant is one of the best options out there. Made in a baggy cut from an irregular, unsanforized denim, these jeans aren’t going to fit into just anyone’s wardrobe, but if they’re your cup of tea then there is no better pair out there. In addition to the double knees these jeans also feature large, curved back pockets and slanted front pockets, which add to the usefulness of these pockets are a piece of workwear.
Available for $175 from Denimio.
5) Oni: 417DK Jeans
If there is one thing that Oni is known for its pairing denim with the style they are constructed into, such as their 417DK Jeans utilizing a slightly shiny and irregular “Demon Denim” to accentuate the double knees. They also chose to accentuate the double knees with contrasting triple stitching rather than hiding them with tonal stitching. Match all that with Oni’s top-notch tapered fit and you have at truly unique pair of jeans to wear into the ground.
Available for £250 from Son of a Stag.
Plus One – Indigofera: Wendell Jean in 1940s Navy Denim
It’s hard to find a pair of double knee denim that truly stands out from the pack, given that all double knee denim stands out from the rest of the jeans on the market. That said, Indigofera managed to create a truly unique pair by returning to the 1940s for their Wendell Jean. Based off of, you guess it, jeans of the 1940s, this pair is beautiful in every way. From the lightweight, 2×1 10oz. denim to the slanted front pockets that create a double layer of fabric from the waistband down to the ankle, everything about these jeans has been thought through meticulously.
Available for $299 from Manready Mercantile.