Five Plus One is our weekly series of buyer’s guides. We pick a specific category and dig up five great options along with one that’s a little outside the norm.
While raw, indigo/white jeans will always remain a classic, sometimes it’s fun to branch out into other colorways. That’s why we’ve put together a list of some of the most interesting, overdyed jeans that feature light grey to dark black overdyeing. While all of these will certainly fade that doesn’t mean they’ll age like ordinary indigo/white jeans; that said, these jeans are all unique in their own way and are sure to develop an interesting, personal patina.
1) Oni: S-LGY Grey Overdye Stretch Denim
If you want some standard, indigo jeans but just with a little bit more interest then Oni’s S-LGY Grey Overdye Stretch Denim jeans might be for you. The main standout for this pair is grey overdyeing, which leave the weft with a slightly darker hue than regular jeans. The fabric is made from a 98%/2% cotton/polyurethane blend which gives stretch, comfort, and resilience to these jeans.
Available for $295 from Blue Owl.
2) 3sixteen: OD-100x Aphotic Anthracite
If you are looking for a slightly darker overdye then look no further than 3sixteen’s OD-100x Aphotic Anthracite. This dye job leaves these jeans with a distinct, charcoal hue unlike much else on the market. They’re finished with a black suede patch and gunmetal hardware, which helps to complete the unique look of these jeans. Underneath it all is a solid pair of indigo jeans, so you can watch as they fade from deep charcoal to a more ordinary indigo as you break them in.
Available for $230 from Self Edge.
3) Nudie: Gritty Jackson Black Forest
While Nudie’s Gritty Jackson Black Forest jeans might not have the specialized fabrics or dyes that some of the other pairs on this list have, they’re still a solid pair of raws. Featuring a normal pair of indigo jeans that has been overdyed black, these pants will only get better with age as they fade from a near black to an inky blue and beyond.
Available for $199 from Nudie.
4) Rick Owens DRKSHDW: Duke Jeans in Black Overdye
Rick Owens DRKSHDW has made some truly unique pairs of raw denim for Self Edge over the last few years, and their Duke Jeans in Black Overdye are just the latest. These jeans start life as a pair of indigo/natural raws before undergoing a black overdye processes that leaves them a deep, inky blue with a ton of sheen. They’re finished with a ton of great details, such as beautifully patinaed YKK hardware, custom Rick Owens’ DARK DUST thread, and chainstitching throughout.
Available for $780 from Self Edge.
5) Circle of Friends: M1 Black x Black
If you are looking for a unique, black overdyed pair that will fade to grey similarly to how indigo denim fades then Circle of Friends‘ M1 Black x Black jeans might be the answer. They are a 98%/2% cotton/stretch jean that features a black sulfur dye which is darkened with the addition of a black overdye. The results are a deep, black pair of jeans that will truly fade to grey over time. With copper rivets and stainless steel buttons, these jeans have enough character to set them apart from the rest of the black jeans out there.
Available for $258CAD from Dutil Denim.
Plus One – Iron Heart: 777S-21mb Mad Black
Iron Heart is one of the most respected jean makers in the world, and their 777S-21mb Mad Black combines their passion for heavyweight fabrics with the beauty that is overdyed denim. These jeans start with 21oz. indigo/white denim, but are then sulfur dyed to the deepest of blacks. They are finished with slightly contrasting stitching, an undyed veg-tag patch, fully lined back pockets, and copper rivets. If heavyweight denim is your game and you want some truly unique jeans then IH’s Mad Blacks might be just the ticket.
Available for $400 from Division Road.