In this series, we will take a closer look at specific pieces and silhouettes from the past which have had a lasting impact on our niche today. From unsung-but-iconic vintage pieces like the Cossack Jacket and Karakoram Parka to modern heritage staples like the Guayabera shirt and Monkey Boot, we’ll be dissecting these classics to find out how they made their mark and where we can find both vintage and contemporary articles today.
We cover a lot of leather jackets here at Heddels, but the Grizzly Jacket is one that is lesser-seen in the heritage sphere — so much so that you may not even recognize it. Why? Because it’s one of the most audacious and luxurious leathers out there. One that had a short-lived heyday that fizzled out just before World War II.
I remember the first time I saw a Grizzly Jacket. It was in a lookbook by cult Japanese streetwear/heritage label and personal favorite, The Tenderloins. Seeing as I wasn’t even 21, yet, I pretty much just said ‘ew‘ in my head, but as I’ve grown older and even more appreciative of heritage clothing, I’ve realized the majesty of the Grizzly. They never quite took off like other leather jacket styles which have become completely iconic — such as the Perfecto —but that’s part of the charm of this furry piece .It’s not accessible enough to be sold off the rack in any old high street store, but it has a ‘those that know’ aura that makes it a covetable classic to those in This Thing Of Ours, and means it is only produced by makers that care about the legacy of such a unique jacket.
The Grizzly Jacket is a perfect fit for this series. A jacket from a time when menswear was slowly evolving, and one that has all but disappeared except for in dedicated circles of designers and enthusiasts. Let’s take a closer look.
What is a Grizzly Jacket?
Repro Grizzly Jackets made by Cushman (left) and Toyo Enterprise’s Lakeland label (right) via Vintage Haberdashers
A Grizzly Jacket is a leather blouson with mouton or fur front/ back panels and collar. Traditionally made from horsehide with mouton or hair-on ponyskin trims and accents, the silhouette of the jacket ranged from bulkier renditions as per the above image, to more trim blousons reminiscent of the Cossack jacket. The key here is the furry element!
Grizzly jackets close with zips or button plackets, and commonly have a belt at the waist and adjustable belted cuffs, as well as slash or patch pockets.
History of the Grizzly Jacket
An original 1930s Grizzly via Vintage Showroom
The origins of the Grizzly Jacket can be traced back to the early 20th century. At this time, leather was only really used for protection purposes or for jacket/coat linings – the stylish leather blouson didn’t really exist yet. With horse and cart still being the primary form of transport, longer coats made of wool or fur were required to protect the laps and legs of those traveling on the open cart in the cold.
An original grizzly jacket produced by Summit in the early 1910s via The Art Of Vintage Leather Jackets (Himel)
The original concept of the Grizzly jacket was to affix insulation onto the outside of the jacket so that the wearer could have more range of motion and layering opportunities whilst enduring the cold. American label Summit is credited with producing the first ‘Grizzly’ styles around 1910, which would have originally been simply referred to as a ‘Fur Blouse’. The early Summit style differs from the archetypal Grizzly styles of the next two decades, as it features knitted cuffs and collars.
Summit’s blueprint was refined and arguably improved by numerous makers over the next twenty years. Amongst the makers, brands that would go on to define the Grizzly were Albert Richard Company, Admiral Byrd, and King-O-Fur — a label created by Iowa-based Edes Robe Tanning Company.
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An original 1930s King-O-Fur Grizzly Jacket via Etsy – Real fur (presumable hair-on ponyskin) with horsehide arms and trims.
Edes Robe Tanning Company was founded in 1905 and specialized in making ponyskin lap robes for those traveling on carts and early automobiles with no heating, but, as technology improved, cars became more confined, and horse-and-cart travel less common, thus the need for Edes’ robes dwindled. They used their tanning and furrier prowess to become one of the first producers of Grizzly Jacket in the 1920s and 30s, as well as other leather coats/jackets. Edes produced Grizzly Jackets under their King-O-Fur label, using real fur/ hair-on ponyskin as opposed to mouton which was preferred by other makers.
Edes Robe Tanning Co. imagery via Edes Robe Tanning Co. (left) & a King-O-Fur Model wearing a Cossack-style ponyskin and horsehide Grizzly Jacket via Art Of Leather Jackets (right)
Laskin Lamb
Images via Vintage Leather Jackets
Ironically, the Grizzly was not known as the Grizzly Jacket until the late 20th century. To my knowledge, it’s a moniker coined by vintage collectors and enthusiasts to encompass the styles discussed in this article. The most common name for the Grizzly during its 1930s heyday was the ‘Laskin Lamb’. This name is actually the name given to the mouton (sheepskin cut and sheered to resemble beaver fur) product used on the outside jackets and the collar. Other trade names for mouton were around in the industry, such as Beavertex and American Wombat (one image in Dave Himel’s archive even refers to ‘Electrified Wombat’) — but Laskin Lamb is what stuck — so much so, that this is how the Grizzly style was referred to by practically all makers during the 1930s.
The archetypal Laskin Lamb Jacket — what would go on to be known as the Grizzly — had the following features:
- Horsehide construction with mouton insulation affixed in panels to the front and back exterior
- Large shirt-style mouton collar
- Zipper closure
- Belted Waist
- Adjustable cuffs
- Wool or flannel lining, plaid or plain
- Slash pockets with horsehide trims
- Boxy fit which sat at the hip
A typical example of an original Laskin Lamb Jacket with the aforementioned features via Etsy
While King-O-Fur’s earlier Grizzlys featured real fur, makers like Admiral Byrd, Albert Richard, and others pioneered the use of mouton during the 1930s. The collection of vintage advert clippings sourced from Himel’s Vintage Leather Jackets Blog shows the range of makers and just how solidified the mouton silhouette became (pictured above and below) became.
Images via Vintage Leather Jackets
The Laskin Lamb jacket enjoyed roaring success in the pre-war 1930s, peaking around 1937 before dropping off in 1938. Jacket-producer Albert Richard Company helped to skyrocket the popularity of the style by using sports stars to advertise it, citing the ease of movement achieved through affixing the insulation to the exterior of the jacket. Note the advertisement below right, which utilized American Football pro, Sid Wagner. This ad actually refers to the jacket by its first moniker ‘fur blouse’, while the advert on the left refers to it as the ‘Wildcat’, whilst citing the ‘action fit’.
Vintage Albert Richard advert featuring Sid Wagner, via Vintage Leather Jackets (Himel) (left) and vintage Albert Richard advert via Craftsman Clothing.
Original Albert Richard Grizzly Jackets via Vintage Haberdashers. The label of the jackets dubbed them ‘The Coat Of The Stars’.
While the popularity of the Laskin Lamb fizzled out at the dawn of WWII, it has left its mark on the history of leather jackets and is now a respected relic of times past. The term ‘Grizzly’ has been applied as a catchall to both the real fur articles produced by Summit and King-O-Fur, and the more iconic Mouton-clad jackets that boomed in the 1930s.
How Much Will An Original Set You Back?
A vintage Grizzly Jacket that allegedly sold for $1999 on eBay via Rivet Head
Moreso than any of the other vintage articles we have featured in this series thus far, an original Grizzly Jacket in wearable condition will set you back thousands. The above 1930s Laskin Lamb jacket with corduroy lining sold for $1999 on eBay over a decade ago, whilst the King-O-Fur jacket (left) below is listed for $4275.75 and the brown Laskin Lamb (below right) sold for £7000GBP(~$8350USD) at England’s Vintage Showroom.
At the time of writing this article, the below 1930s Grizzly Jacket is also listed on eBay for $2299 or best offer.
Worthwhile Reproductions
Lucky for us, we have repros. Fantastic, nuanced, drop-dead gorgeous repros, at that. Here are our picks of the best Grizzly Jacket reproductions out there today.
Himel Bros. Wolverine
Channeling the more Cossack-oriented Grizzly Jackets of the 1920s and 1930s as opposed to the Mouton-laden Laskin Lambs, Himel Bros. Wolverine Custom is a sight to behold. The jacket is crafted in Canada from horsehide and features cow fur hair-on hide panels. Fully customizable, the Wolverine also flaunts ornate flap pockets at the waist, Japanese replica 1930s Talon zippers, and a gorgeous Cossack-style collar. If you want a refined Grizzly formulated by an absolute leather jacket guru in David Himel, the Wolverine is your best bet.
Available from Himel Bros. Starting at $2800.
A prototype Grizzly Jacket made by Himel Bros., reviewed by the customer, Guillermo here
Mister Freedom Baloo
Available from Tendrel for $1600.
Aero Leathers Grizzly Jacket
Available for $12499 from Thurston Bros.
Toy’s McCoy TMJ1441 Grizzly Jacket
Available for 171,600JPY (~$1265USD) from Real Moon
The Groovin High Grizzly Jacket
Available for $1499 from The Fat Hatter
Gallery
Before you enjoy the following gallery, I would like to give a shout-out to Dave Himel. Without his encyclopedic knowledge of vintage leather jackets and dedication to archiving images and information about such jackets, this article would not have been possible.
The Tenderloins Grizzly Jacket from the K-Seven Era via Group Concordia
Child in a Grizzly Jacket via Vintage Haberdasher
Via Vintage Leather Jackets
Via Vintage Leather Jackets
Via Vintage Leather Jackets
Image via Real McCoy’s
Image via The Real McCoy’s
The Real McCoy’s Aklak in action The Real McCoy’s
Repro Laskin Lamb jacket made by Toyo Enterprise’s Lakeland Leathers repro label, via Vintage Haberdashers
