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Waxed Roughout Boots – Five Plus One

Five Plus One is our weekly series of buyer’s guides. We pick a specific category and dig up five great options along with one that’s a little outside the norm.


For those deep in the welted boot niche, Waxed Roughout is a favorite due to its unique texture. Not only does it look good new, but as the wax is rubbed off friction points and the natural nap of the leather returns, it gains a level of patina unseen on ordinary leather. While I wouldn’t suggest waxed flesh as a leather if you’re only going to own a single pair of boots that you may want to dress up occasionally, it makes an excellent addition to an otherwise complete shoe closet.

1) White’s: LTT Lineman 350 – Vibram Mini Lug – Olive Waxed Flesh

Waxed-Roughout-Boots---Five-Plus-One 1) White's: LTT Lineman 350 - Vibram Mini Lug - Olive Waxed Flesh

White’s has been making top-quality workwear boots for decades, but it’s great to see them start to offer their LTT Lineman boot to the more fashion-focused crown. Featuring an additional layer of tow protection at the ball of the foot, these boots are more durable than ever. This model features olive ‘waxed flesh’ roughout leather in a beautiful but rare color, and comes fitted with a mini lug sole, brass eyelets, handsome triple-stitching, and robust heel pulls.

Available for $690 from Division Road.

2) Junkard: SC2078 – RO Waxed Flesh

Junkard is an Indonesian bootmaking operation known for its clean styles and phenomenal price-to-quality ratio. Their SC2078 is a classic derby boot made with a ‘waxed copper brown’ roughout leather and featuring a Dainite commando sole, lambskin lining, and gunmetal eyelets. The finish on the leather is certainly a bit less smooth than many waxed roughout leathers, but we’re certainly not complaining.

Available for $270 from Junkard.

3) Viberg: Scout Boot – Dark Olive Waxed Flesh

Waxed-Roughout-Boots---Five-Plus-One-3)-Viberg-Scout-Boot---Dark-Olive-Waxed-Flesh

Viberg‘s Scout Boot is a solid cop if you’re looking for boots that fit more of a streetwear aesthetic than their usual Service Boots. Shown here in Dark Olive Waxed Flesh, a colorway that is clearly quite popular this season, these boots are built on Vibram Moreflex wedge sole for comfort and that undeniably handsome contemporary look.

This style if finished with a 360º split welt and antique brass eyelets will look phenomenal as both the brass and the leather age in tandem.

Available for $785 from Viberg.

4) Truman Boot Co: Java Waxed Flesh Upland Moc Toe

Waxed-Roughout-Boots---Five-Plus-One-4)-Truman-Boot-Co-Java-Waxed-Flesh-Upland-Moc-Toe

Truman Boot Co.‘s Java Waxed Flesh Upland Moc toe is, for many workwear boots fans, their most compelling style. The tall height is something that many fashion-focused bootmakers stray away from, but it pairs beautifully with the moc toe style. Add in waxed flesh’s innate ability to patina and you’ve got a recipe for one great boot. These boots are finished with a 270º natural storm welt and Vibram christy sole, which cements their style.

Available for $520 from Truman Boot Co.

5) Grant Stone: Diesel Boot Natural Waxed Commander

Waxed-Roughout-Boots---Five-Plus-One-5)-Grant-Stone-Diesel-Boot-Natural-Waxed-Commander

Grant Stone continues to impress with their Diesel Boot in Natural Waxed Commander, a smooth, waxed flesh leather from C.F. Stead. While featuring less sheen than Horween‘s waxed flesh, Waxed Commander leather still offers that matted-down nap that helps it age quickly and beautifully.

With a 360º storm welt, low profile toe, high stitches per inch stitching, and classic pattern, this is an easy pair of boots to wear as your daily driver.

Available for $340 from Grant Stone.

Plus One – William Lennon & Co: 268 Hill Boots

Waxed-Roughout-Boots---Five-Plus-One-Plus-One---William-Lennon-&-Co-268-Hill-Boots

William Lennon & Co. have been making boots in England since the end of the 19th century. Their construction and quality have remained high and their prices remained reasonable, and they produce some truly unique piece. Their 268 Hill Boots are made from a black, waxed flesh leather they refer to as “Black reverse kip butt hide”. They previously used black, waxed flesh leather produced by Clayton Leather, which had a uniform, slightly rough texture to it; the leather in the pictures looks the same, although I cannot 100% confirm the source remains the same.

Best of all, these boots offer either two sole options: a Vibram lug sole or a leather sole with metal hobnails.

Available for £205 (~$240USD) from William Lennon & Co.

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