Heddels Staff Select – Sweaters

Knit sweaters are pure comfort. They come in 101 different varieties, and we’ve guided you toward so many of them, but we still have more to say about one of our favorite staples. From your unique vintage fare, Shetland wool masterpieces, and modern machine-knit marvels, there’s no shortage of great quality knits out there.

We’re adding to our Staff Select series by covering some of the knits that we love, that have held up, and will continue to do so with time. Join us while we break down some of the many styles, materials, and forms of knit sweaters that have served us best.

Why trust us? Well, we’ve all been in the game long enough to have field-tested a range of quality clothing, and the Heddels operation puts us onto some of the best clothing in the world week in, week out. Whilst our opinions and experiences shouldn’t be taken as definitive, this series will provide you insight into what has worked for us and why.

Brad – Faherty Sample Sweater

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I’m a sucker for clothes that are one-of-one. I get some sort of narcissistic satisfaction by knowing that I’m wearing something really cool that no one else can get. To find these unique pieces, I enjoy hunting through thrift shops, upcycle brands, and sample sales. My all-time favorite knit sweater was discovered at the bottom of a pile in an office sample sale for Faherty back in 2018.

Sample sales, like thrifting, are akin to metal detecting on a beach. You spend a long time monotonously trudging along through nothing of any interest until you get a ping of possibility. That ping doesn’t mean you’ve found anything just yet. It could be a bit of fool’s gold like the wrong size or a really cool fabric cut in an unflattering design. Once in a while though, you strike it big and land a totally awesome garment for way less than it would normally cost.

So back in 2018, I came across this Native-American patterned cardigan in a color scheme that reminded me of a sunset over the ocean. It has a range of orange, red, yellow, and white laid over an indigo blue. The design caught my eye so I grabbed it and it felt very soft, too soft for wool. Intrigued by the feel I checked for a tag and found nothing whatsoever on the inside. This was a true sample. No size, although it fits like a medium – as most samples do. No fabric details, although if I had to bet I would say it is an alpaca blend given the unique weight and texture. Nothing even indicates the brand on the inside or outside of the sweater.

Over the years since I stumbled across this beauty, it has become my most worn sweater and it’s not even close. I went full The Dude with this thing. It functions more like a robe for wearing around the house because it is that damn comfortable. I’ve come to believe that real indigo was used in the dying process (Faherty loves to use indigo) because of how the blue has faded with age. Which is another bonus, if true.

An important side note: Faherty is about as conscientious as any mainstream clothing company you’ll find. A few years back, they pulled all their Native American print items. They then partnered with a few Native artists and designers to source genuine Native prints for their clothing. You can read more about that initiative here.

Jack – Vintage Penny’s Towncraft Lambswool/Mohair Blend Sweater

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After emphasizing my love of layering, as I’m sure we all shared in our Staff Select — Winter Jackets article, a knit sweater edition feels like a logical continuation and better yet has been the crux of my layering habits this winter. For this post, I chose my favorite find of this year: a 1950’s Penney’s Towncraft lambswool and mohair blend pullover. I’ve worn it at least once a week over the last three months and it’s already proven an invaluable asset to my wardrobe.

Considering it’s in the ballpark of seventy years of age, I honestly expect another seventy from it. And while it came with a number of visible holes, that was the least of my concerns, as it would give me a chance to hone my hand-darning skills on woolens and the price was astoundingly reasonable.

To me, the main draw of this sweater is its appearance. It’s my first mohair and I love spicing up fits with some fuzzy texture in these cool months. The gold, brown, grey, and black colorway also makes it extremely versatile—I’ve found I can wear it with nearly anything. Also, the grid patterning feels unique as far as mohairs go, and the boat neck collar looks as good with a tee under it as it is comfortable with a button-down under it. Structurally, the sweater runs a touch big and boxy for a vintage size large, so I prefer to style it with a straight or wider leg pant. Beyond visuals, it’s quite warm and I find with a shirt underneath and a midweight jacket over top, I’m warm down into the twenties fahrenheit.

While this is a vintage piece, I’ve tracked down similar style crewneck mohairs from some of our favorite brands available today:

Left Field NYC Tweed Sweater – Sky Mohair/Merino Wool

Howlin’ Birth of the Cool – Reflection

Charlie – Inverallan A1 Cable Knit Crewneck Sweater

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When the weather is cold, I try to maximize the number of wears I put on my favorite type of cold weather garment: heavy leather jackets. There aren’t really any pieces that cause me to break from this pattern, except for my Inverallan A1 Cableknit Crewneck Sweater. Now you might be asking yourself “why doesn’t he just layer this sweater under his jacket?” and that’s a good question. First, this sweater is so thick I literally cannot fit it under the vast majority of my outerwear. Second, It feels more solidly built than any other sweater I have ever owned (or even handled), and Inverallan even includes matching yarn if repairs are ever required. Third? It’s so warm on its own that the idea of wearing anything more than a light jacket over it is untenable.

While I could tell you I love everything about this sweater, it does have one notable negative: the itch factor. As someone who likes to wear insulating, tech-wear long-sleeve tees during the winter, I have to advise against pairing that kind of stuff with the Inverallan or similar, as the wool fibers pierce through and itch up a storm. That said, if you’re less susceptible to itching or have a wardrobe with plenty of ordinary weight, long sleeve shirts there is no reason this sweater can’t replace much of your ordinary, cold-weather outerwear.

That might seem like a huge caveat and for some, it might be. But this remains one of my favorite articles of clothing. I get excited each year when I get to move it into my active rotation and it gets as many (of not more) compliments as any of my other winter garments.

Ben – Vintage Shaker Knit Sweater

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In the throes of winter, nothing acts more like a lifeline in the choppy seas of snow, harsh winds, and double-take-inducing thermometer readings like the right sweater. Plus they look much cooler than a life vest.

And when other layers simply won’t do or I’m gearing up to venture out, I reach for my 1920s W.H. Brine of Boston cardigan. This shaker knit sweater is made of 100% worsted wool and features Bakelite buttons, 2 handwarmer pockets, and a relaxed fit that’s perfect for layering. Beyond its incredible two-tone design, the purple felt embroidery that denotes either a school or sports team has to be my favorite detail.

Easily my sturdiest, warmest, and rarest sweater, I was very happy to find it at a house call a few years ago in the Boston area and have been wearing it every winter, ever since. Not to mention the condition when found was nearly new, and has easily held up since then. They certainly do not make them like they used to.

Daniel – Merz B. Schwanen Merino Wool Classic Fit Pullover

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There’s not much I don’t like about my Merz B. Schwanen sweater. I’m all about the finer fabrics, and this merino wool is oh-so fine. It’s extremely soft, extremely warming — but thanks to it being merino — I can wear it when it’s not super cold.

I prefer pairing it with wide-leg jeans and pants and comfy sneakers, but it can definitely be styled with the inverse — Fitted black jeans, black boots, and suddenly you’re looking like a beat poet. It’s a versatile piece, a lot of that has to do with the fact that it’s a black sweater, and that’s probably why I love it and get so much wear out of it.

It’s as high quality as any Merz item, so I do expect it to hold up for many years to come, and I’m secretly looking forward to when it will start falling apart and developing holes. I don’t think there’s much cooler than a holey sweater that wouldn’t look out of place in a 90s Seattle grunge club, especially the textured knit kind, and even more so when you’ve earned them and didn’t buy them pre-distressed.

Available for $212 from Merz B. Schwanen, but also available in orange and green for $205 at Franklin & Poe.

Zach – Aran Irish Wool Fishermans Sweater

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Winter aboard a boat can be brutally frigid. So, when I needed a sweater for a cold, wet season, the name “Irish Fishermans Ribbed Sweater” caught my eye.

This Aran Sweater knit is stout! Its fit is loose — almost to the point of being amorphic — but it insulates very well without restricting movement. The cut allows you to wear a softer collared shirt underneath with ease. My version is a deep “moss green,” which goes well with black denim and a khaki or cream collared shirt. Tucked into a pair of wool trousers or bibs, your Aran sweater would fit in on an Alpine ski expedition.

Do note, while being heavy-duty, it’s possible to pull the yarns loose by accident if you snag a tree branch. In five years of ownership, however, it hasn’t unraveled on me in the least. If you need a good utilitarian wool sweater that evokes images of the raging North Atlantic, this is a sweater worth trying.

Available on sale for $74.95 from Aran.