Head-warming hats like beanies and woolen caps are so ingrained in our daily lives, we don’t ever really consider their origins. Almost everything we wear has some sort of utilitarian roots, but the universal need to keep our heads warm in the colder seasons has spawned numerous different styles of cold-weather headwear – styles that have transcended utility and embedded themselves into the modern sartorial zeitgeist.

Being in the business of gear that’s built to last, naturally about 80% of the garb we cover here at Heddels is some sort of take on workwear styles, and that applies to hats and caps. Watch caps and winterized caps feature in our editorial each year when the temps drop, but we’ve never examined the roots of cold-weather headwear. So without further ado, that’s what we’re going to do.

Make yourself a coffee and prepare to have a whole new level of appreciation for your winter hats.

The Great Frozen North

Few places test the limits of human endurance like Alaska. Many have laid claims to the land over its history; the United States acquired it in 1867 leading to much lampooning by critics who thought of it as nothing more than a frozen wasteland. The discovery of gold in the Klondike, a region that straddles the U.S.-Canadian border, froze further complaints. Adventurers and writers like Jack London followed the waves of prospectors who hoped to strike gold there at the close of the 19th century. In that harsh climate, practical winter workwear was impossible to undervalue. An intermixing of American, Canadian, Native, and Russian dress kept travelers warm in driving snow and winds in temperatures that plummeted well below freezing.

Wandering through the tent-lined streets of a Yukon gold mining camp, you might wonder where the line between civilization and the wilderness became blurred. Arrivals fresh from Europe, the Pacific Northwest, or eastern Canada wander about woefully underequipped in many cases. Goods, even slices of pie from a tent bakery, are priced high to make a few dollars off of grizzled miners and homesick adventurers.

Like California almost fifty years prior, the gold seekers are nowhere near as rich as the businesses they frequent.

So, you carry in your overcoat pocket a wrinkled list of everything needed on your mining claim–the first great challenge is reaching it without freezing to death. Your felt bowler cap, though stylish on the streets of Seattle, simply won’t cut it as the sun goes down. With the tips of your ears going numb and ice building on your eyelids, the thought of buying a fine winter cap comes to mind.

“W. A. Kjellman, by the way, is a character…He has been in charge of the Teller [Alaska] reindeer station for three years. Mr. Kjellman (his name is pronounced Shellman, by the way) speaks Norwegian, Lap, Malamute, Eskimo, English, and as a finish, Finnish…He has a belt made of two-thousand reindeer teeth, a wonderful piece of ivory puppet carving, of which more anon, [and] a cap made entirely of muskrat tails…He presented little Serene with a Siberian cap of light-colored fur… ” -Alice Palmer Henderson, The Rainbow’s End: Alaska (1898), pages 208-209.

Keep Your Head Warm

Is there any science behind keeping your cranium from being cold? The old myth that you lose most of your body heat through your head is false. The rate of heat loss doesn’t differ with the rest of your body, though there are a large number of blood vessels up there. Despite myth-busting, consider the situation above: arriving in an inhospitably cold place with a decent coat but without the proper headwear. While the rest of your body is insulated and retaining the warmth, your head is not. In this case, you’re hemorrhaging about 10% of your total body heat!

Mother Nature Knows Best

For millennia, humans have followed the examples set by the animal kingdom. Shaggy fur is a natural retainer of heat like water in a sponge. Fur garments, including headwear, thus span cultures across the world. In some regions, these pieces of headwear are symbolic of the nation as a whole.

The Trapper Hat

Starting in the 17th century, French trappers roamed the North American landscape for generations prior to English-speaking settlers. They often operated in isolation. When outposts were needed, the Francophones preferred building small log forts and trading posts to the establishment of bustling cities.

Through their wilderness hermitage, the trappers developed a working relationship with some Native American tribes which included intermarrying alliances, and of course, bartering for furs. During the following centuries, the popular image of the French-Canadian trapper became a hulking, bearded man of few words — the sharp report of his flintlock musket and fur-draped exterior did the talking instead.

The trapper hat is a product of this austere lifestyle. Similar to — and perhaps derived from — the ushanka of eastern and orthern Europe, it’s filled with a self-sufficient attitude. Unlike the fashionable beaver hats that their prized pelts were fashioned into for the European market, the hat of their choosing was purely functional. Chief among its features is the earflaps, of which many can be folded down and tied into place.

Davy Crockett, Disney, and the Coonskin Cap

It’s not every day that a children’s TV show revives a lost piece of fur headwear. In the mid-1950s, a Disney television show illustrating the exploits of frontiersman Davy Crockett found its way into many homes across the English-speaking world. Part historical figure and part folk legend, the main character sported a round coonskin cap — complete with a dangling raccoon tail —which has actual provenance. Besides Crockett, Merriweather Lewis (of Lewis and Clark fame) and Joseph Meek are reputed to have worn this distinctive piece of headwear as well.

Demand for coonskin caps in kids’ sizes skyrocketed. The modern variation was commonly made of real or faux raccoon fur, in a skull cap pattern, with the tail sewn on. At its peak, about 5,000 caps were being sold per day. Coonskin headwear faded from popular fashion as baby boomers reached adolescence.

The Revenant

If you’ve seen The Revenant, then you know that it’s the antithesis of midcentury Disney: bleak, gritty, and with plenty of facial hair. Davy Crockett and Hugh Glass — the latter being the basis for DiCaprio’s character in the movie — were contemporaries in real life, though separated by great distances. Glass was a fur trapper in the territory surrounding the upper Missouri River. Set in the 1820s, The Revenant‘s costuming blends period-correct fashion and artistic license with modern functionality; the stars were in very real danger during filming! Temperatures could drop to -40 C/F on location in the Canadian province of Alberta. Thus, costume designer Jacquelin West employed measures ranging from electrically-heated linings to natural waterproofing methods like wax and oil (though not the coveted bear grease that was used historically.)

Knit Caps as Battlewear

The modern knit cap can trace its roots back to Wales. At Monmouth, skull-hugging caps crafted from yarn were manufactured for workers along with soldiers and sailors alike. They often feature loops so that they can be attached to buttons or hung from belts. It played a tactical role at the Battle of Agincourt on October 25th, 1415. Wool headwear was needed as a liner under the chainmail and iron helmets worn by the English troops. During the 15th and 16th centuries, the Monmouth cap reached its pinnacle of popularity and even received a nod from Shakespeare in Henry V after the stunning Britannic victory:

“…[T]he Welshmen did good service in a garden where leeks did grow, wearing leeks in their Monmouth caps…”

Monmouth caps gave rise to the enduring watch cap which can be found across the globe. In some vernaculars, the term “beanie” is applied to knitted watch cap variants but some definitions specify that it’s made from a piece of cloth. “Toque” is another brimless cap (especially, but not exclusively, for female fashion) that has become synonymous with brimless caps made from yarn.

The Balaclava Charges Into History

A wonderfully versatile piece of headwear with an interesting reputation, the Balaclava has its roots in the British Army in an area of present-day Ukraine. The Crimean War was waged from 1853 to 1856 and pitted Russia against Great Britain, France, the Ottoman Empire, and others (the latter side known as “The Allies”). Starting in 1854, a campaign had been mounted to seize the Russian-held seaport of Sevastopol on the peninsula of Crimea — a city with a strategic importance that has spanned centuries. Seeing a weak spot in the advancing forces, the Russians launched a thrust toward nearby Balaclava in late October.

Coincidentally — like the Monmouth cap discussed above — this piece of headwear is associated with a battle that also took place on October 25th. Their attack was stymied but the struggle became pitched. An ambiguous order lead to an ill-fated cavalry charge and one of the most dramatic pieces of poetry in English literature: Tennyson’s “The Charge of Light Brigade.”

With this setback, both sides hunkered down for what would become an 11-month siege of Sevastopol. The weather was cooling off by that time. Winter appeared on the horizon as the gun smoke settled in the shallow, windswept valleys. Adequate cold weather gear hadn’t arrived for the British, however. To avoid freezing to death in their siege lines, their solution recalled a rich English knitting tradition while dubbing it after the battle that brought them there. A cottage industry back home knitted this valuable piece of headwear to send to Crimea. The balaclava is simple in construction but can be worn in multiple ways. You can protect your neck, the top of your head, and your face in several combinations. Taking some of the bite out of the Ukrainian winter air, soldiers wore their knit coverings to fit the task.

Inspiration for the balaclava was likely drawn from the Uhlan cavalry units of Eastern Europe and other headwear worn by knightly orders. Despite its prestigious beginnings, the Balaclava has taken on a dubious reputation in some settings. Many of us have seen the signs: “No Bookbags, Ski Masks, Hoods…,” or something similar, when entering bank buildings. “Ski mask” is a phrase that is synonymous with variants of the balaclava in North America. When it wasn’t being used on the ski slopes, some nefarious characters favored it to hide their identities. From bank robbers and jewel thieves to terrorists and special forces operators, few garments listed here will illicit such a strong reaction from the public.

From Ear Flaps to Jeep Caps – US Military Winter Headwear

Enterprising soldiers had to make do in freezing conditions throughout history. The U.S. Army didn’t adopt headwear expressly for cold weather until 1876. In that year, a board discussed what would become a cap made of, “…[W]ool seal skin, with ear flaps, cape, and vizor, according to pattern…[with a] liner of Turkey red chintz [cotton], padded with cotton wadding. ” This cap resembled the trapper’s hats described above. Specifications continued to evolve, however, as canvas and muskrat fur versions were adopted in the following years.

By the early 20th century, military headwear — caps, hats, knit, and fur — started getting a more familiar shape. The canvas winter hat adopted in 1907 featured a long brim and a tall crown that resembles a baseball cap. Further refinement led to a version that saw use in World War II, with a buckle instead of laces for securing the ear flaps. Other branches had also adopted their own cold-weather gear. Fur hats were still ordered by the military in certain cases, such as when elements of the U.S. Army were dispatched to Siberia around the end of World War I.

Like the Monmouth cap from centuries prior, the U.S. Army adopted rib-knit, visorless caps that could be worn under hats and helmets prior to World War I. The A4 caps of the World War II era were the next evolution and were primarily issued to the Army Air Corps (later Army Air Force) in olive drab green. Meanwhile, the Navy version was similar in construction–this example was made by the same manufacturer as the A4–but black.

The Jeep cap was also designed to go under the American steel helmets (nicknamed “pots”) of World War II. It has the distinction of sporting a short visor that can be folded up when not in use. Popular among soldiers, some senior officers allegedly despised its “un-military” appearance, and a replacement was specified before the end of the war. However, they continued to see use through 1945.

In Korea, frigid blasts of arctic air became an enemy to all living beings. Introduced in 1951, the Cap, Field, Pile, O.D., MQ-1 was introduced at the height of the conflict. The alpaca lining around the ears and neck is the distinguishing feature that became a favorite for cold climates. A leather-clad civilian version with a knit protective band is also available today. A different military cap that has endured for generations–contracted in the same year–is popularly dubbed the Patrol Cap or simply M1951. Unlike the pile cap, the M1951 is unique in that the wool-lined panels can be folded completely inside the crown which allows it to be worn in virtually any season.

Beanies

Imagine a baseball cap without a brim. This is the basic concept of a traditional beanie, a type of cloth skullcap worn by tradesmen and other blue-collar workers to keep their heads relatively clean. How beanies are defined has changed over the years and across locales. The cloth versions, often made from linen and similar materials, are not ideal for the wintery outdoors.

New, Improved, and “Patented”

Even on the coldest Winter days, the sun can still beam from above onto the frozen landscape. Adding brims to cold-weather hats seemed like a natural evolution, and during the 19th and 20th centuries, several patterns were pioneered. During this time, methods of covering the ears were also tinkered with by inventors.

To quote the abstract of Ignatz Neuman’s 1881 swivel-protector cap patent:

“Winter caps provided with devices for protecting the ears and neck of the wearer are old and well known, and these protecting devices have been made in many different ways…”

Designs like the Stormy Kormer, which integrated the baseball cap brim with winter fashion (see “Beyond the Tracks, Pt. 1“), have thrived into the next millennium.

Fleeces and Furs Gain Speed

Automobiles and aviation: two new, exciting modes of travel that burst forth onto the landscape in the early 20th century. In both cases, travelers were still subjected to the elements in open cabs and cockpits. Fleece, fur, and leather were thus the materials of choice.

The Aviator

In the sky, winter is year-round. With the advent of powered flight, humans soared higher than ever before. Frozen snow-capped peaks became scenic interests rather than insurmountable obstacles. However, early planes had open cockpits that subjected pilots to a whole new level of cold weather. Fleece-lined coats and hats were the solutions as manufacturers adopted the basic philosophy of the trapper hat. Their product was sleek: a leather exterior with a fur or fleece lining. This classic look, epitomized by the daredevil aviators of World War I, is also accompanied by flying goggles to protect the eyes. Some aviators loved its practicality so much, that they continued to wear aviator hats even when flying in less harsh conditions.

Twelve O’Clock High: The Bomber Hat

The “bomber” hat is associated with the aviator hat. During World War II, heavy-bomber aircraft flew at high altitudes to strike their targets. In these unpressurized airframes, temperatures were frigid. The leather ear-flapped hat was already a symbol of aviation but these intrepid flyers solidified its place in bold fashion. Commercial varieties of the classic bomber are still readily for sale eighty years later along with its ancestor, the trapper hat.

Modern Makers

At the Front

At the Front (or ATF) produce a dizzying range of military reproductions geared towards museums and Hollywood. While their products can be mixed in terms of historical accuracy (if you ask collectors), the Jeep cap is one area in which they excel. The correct knit and stitching bring the olive wool together for a truly utilitarian look.

The Jeep Cap, Made in USA, is available from ATF for $34.99.

Mr. Fatman

Mr. Fatman is a private label for one of Tokyo’s premier hatters, “The Fat Hatter.” This version is made from merino wool, a versatile fiber for almost any environment. Thus, this watch cap is the embodiment of bringing high-quality to everyday items. The Mr. Fatman Merino Wool Roll Watch Cap is available from Red Cast Heritage for $60.

OhBoyHandmade

There’s no shortage of modern balaclavas and their variants on the market today, including authentic British military surplus. That’s why a version that gets back to its hand-knitted roots is especially exciting! OhBoyHandmade is based out of the Canadian province of Quebec. The thick warmth of rustic undyed wool evokes images of Shacklton’s Voyage to the Antarctic–which is fitting, given that this pattern comes from the early 20th century. The Shackleton Hat is available on Etsy for $61.10.

South Union Mills

When it comes to historic knit goods, few makers can offer what South Union Mills can. Sticking to tradition, their homage to the original Monmouth cap is patterned after the earliest known original in the Monmouth Museum. Their yarn is purchased from a mill that’s been in business since 1857 which is then hand-knit into the finished product. The Monmouth Cap is available from their website for $39.95 USD.

The Dutch Cap is South Union Mills’ take on a relative of the modern watch cap. The originals are housed in the Rijksmuseum, which is the national museum of the Netherlands. As with the Monmouth above, this piece is knitted with heritage yarn by hand. The 18th Century Dutch Cap is available from their website for $39.95 USD.

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