Five Plus One is our weekly series of buyer’s guides. We pick a specific category and dig up five great options along with one that’s a little outside the norm.
When you get beyond the indigo warp and white weft of classic selvedge you’ll see a whole world of possibilities. They’re all great in their own right, but the Indigo/Black combo offers something special and mysterious. Not only does it give a dark indigo hue unlike anything else, but it leads to incredibly unique fades, often with electric blue undertones. While we can’t promise you’ll like them more than a more traditional pair, they’re definitely worth an addition to any denim collection.
1) Samurai: S520XX18oz-SB – 18Oz. Slub Arakage Denim – Regular Tapered
If you’re looking for top-tier Japanese denim of the indigo/black variety then you can’t go wrong with Samurai‘s S520XX18OZ-SB. Made of 18 oz. slubby indigo/black denim with contrasting gold stitching, hidden rivets, and black coated iron buttons. It’s made with a heavily tapered leg, which comes together to make one tempting pair of indigo/black jeans.
Available for $455 from James Dant.
2) Kato: The Pen 10.5Oz. Raw Indigo/Black Selvedge Denim
Kato has really picked up steam in the last several years and it’s clear as to why. They have great patterns, choose unique fabrics that aren’t gimmicky, and come in at a palatable price. Their Pen 105. oz. Indigo/Black selvedge offers a unique combination of a heavily tapered leg, indigo/black colorway, and 4% stretch for comfort.
While in general, stretch fabrics lead to less contrasting fades, indigo/black denim isn’t your average warp/weft paring. Who knows what the outcome will be, but I’m sure it’ll look fantastic. And the tapered leg is sure to speed up your fading process.
Available for $257CAD (~$204USD) from Brooklyn Clothing.
3) Momotaro: 0605-IBSP – Natural Tapered – 15.7oz Indigo x Black
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Momotaro is a top-tier brand that never misses on the details, as is exemplified in their 0605-IBSP. Made with the requisite indigo/black denim, tonal stitching, black steel buttons, and blackened copper rivets, Momo really kept a consistent color palette with this pair — down to the iconic Battle Stripes on the rear pocket: one in Indigo and one in Black.
Made in a tapered fit, these are the kind of jeans you’ll find easy to pair with all manner of footwear and slip on every day.
Available for $315 from Division Road.
4) 3sixteen: CT-120x – Shadow Selvedge
We’ve talked about 3sixteen‘s Shadow Selvedge a million times before. They’re a great pair of jeans that come in a wide range of fits, have great construction quality at an affordable price, and are known to fade beautifully into electrical blue. If you want a known quantity, these are a strong choice. The fabric might not have the heavy texture of some other denim on this list, but its reputation would say that this doesn’t matter at all.
Available for $255 from Franklin & Poe.
5) Iron Heart: 25 oz. Selvedge Denim Straight Cut Jeans – Indigo/Black
If you’re interested in donning some indigo/black denim but don’t want to give up heavyweight fabric then Iron Heart is here with its arms open. Their 25 oz. Indigo/Black pair is about as heavy as indigo/black denim gets.
Made from a very heavy, very uniform 25 oz. fabric, these jeans are finished with contrast stitching, brass rivets, and lined back pockets. Shown here in their straight fit, they do offer some slimmer, more modern fits, as well. Check ’em out.
Available for $475 from Iron Heart.
Plus One – Rick Owens DRKSHDW: Detroit Jeans – Made In Japan 13.75oz Indigo/Black Denim
Rick Owens DRKSHDW isn’t a brand that comes up on Heddels too much, but it does slot in every now and then, and it’s a shoo-in for this week’s Plus One.
DRKSHDW began making some quality, selvedge jeans for Self Edge several years ago and the pattern has continued with their 13.75 oz. Indigo/lack Detroit Jeans. They’re made with rope-dyed indigo warps that will fade well, but with a black weft that should hold their color, which will certainly lead to some interesting denim evolution. They’re finished with a second coin pocket for the right hand in addition to all the usual finishing details: chainstitching, button fly, etc.
Available for $805 from Self Edge.
