Wartime Blues Part I - Denim Uniforms of the U.S. Navy

When we think of military garb, our minds are understandably cast upon images of M-65, OG107 uniform, camo goods, and all manner of olive drab goodness. But throughout the early to mid-20th century, the U.S. military adopted denim as a workwear fabric, applying it to a range of uniforms across its forces.

In this two-part series, we’ll be focussing on how the U.S. military used denim in its uniforms. We’re kicking things off with the U.S. Navy, who championed denim more than any other military force in the USA.

Bell Bottomed Beginnings – U.S. Navy

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Royal Canadian Navy member waring Bell Bottoms. You can see the creases on the legs where the pants have been rolled up high for doing chores. Photo Catalogue Number VR1999.758.32 from CFB Esquimalt Naval & Military Museum’s collection. Leon Cole/Pinterest

Bell Bottom trousers — regular to wide-fit pants with flared hems — were a style adopted by Sailors of both American and British origin in the early 19th century. While the information on the origins of Bell Bottoms is conflicting, it is accepted that wide pants (not just the flared ‘bell bottom’ type) were originally used by sailors as they could easily roll up the hems past their knees whilst performing chores like washing decks. With so much utilitarian use (lots of which was unofficial, as the U.S. Navy did not have an official uniform in the early-to-mid 19th Century), it is only logical to assume that some of these bell-bottomed trousers would have been made from navy twill and, of course, blue denim.

Image via Navy Uniform Regulations 1913/1917 revisionGoogle books

The U.S. Navy officially authorized the use of denim bell bottoms and ‘jumpers’ in 1901 and later issued denim dungarees as a working uniform in 1913. Initially, dungarees were worn by engineers or men on duty in gun turrets aboard ships and subs, and only when working in areas where a standard naval uniform would get dirty. They also didn’t have a place for an officer to display their grade.

As you can see from the above image from the Navy Uniform Regulations 1913 (1917 revision) the first issued ‘jumper’ (what we now refer to as a deck jumper) was a pullover, and the trousers were wide, but not always bell-bottomed. The below excerpts show the specifications of these pieces, both of which were to be made of denim weighing in at 6.5-7 oz. per square yard.

Image via Navy Uniform Regulations 1913/Google books

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Bronson Mfg. reproduction of USN Dungaree Trousers from 1917. Currently unavailable. Images via Bronson Mfg.

Dungaree Jumper

An original Dungaree Jumper via Ima-USA

The Dungaree ‘deck’ jumper evolved into its full-button form in 1918, and is listed in the United States Navy Uniform Specifications 1922. Whilst there is evidence that Navy personnel were wearing these full-buttoned Dungaree Jumpers in the late 1910s, they were officially issued in 1922 and became a stalwart piece of USN workwear during WWII. There would be subtle differentiations of the silhouette as the years went by, including pockets with more rounded bottoms, different button designs, and different button materials. The above image shows arguably the most iconic silhouette (within our niche) of the Dunagree Jumper with its instantly recognizable removable plastic anchor buttons.

Close-ups of the previously-pictured Dunagree Jumper via Ima-USA.

The 6.5-7 oz. ‘denim’ looks to be of 1×1 weave —resembling a heavyweight chambray as opposed to the traditional 3×1 weave of denim — which makes sense considering this one of the cheapest ways to weave a twill-like cloth that needs to be robust.

Image via the United States Navy Uniform Regulations 1922/Google Books

This button-placket Dungaree Jumper silhouette is arguably the most recognizable piece of denim USN wear. It’s been reproduced by numerous heritage brands since, including TCB, Dawson Denim, Fullcount, The Real McCoy’s, and many more.

World War II

Images via Uniforms Decorations Medals and Badges of the United States Navy 1941/ Google Books

The United States of America entered WWII in December 1941 with uniforms updated and affirmed accordingly. The 1941 United States Navy Uniform Regulations iterated that Chief Petty Officers wore dungarees on duties requiring less formal dress. The dungaree uniform consisted of denim trousers, a black webbing belt, a denim jumper, and a blue chambray shirt. Pictured above and below are excerpts from the Uniforms Decorations Medals and Badges of the United States Navy 1941.

Image via Uniforms Decorations Medals and Badges of the United States Navy 1941/ Google Books

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Evolution-of-Hiking-Boots-Prolific-hiker-and-founder-of-Vibram,-Vitale-Bramani-(second-from-right).-Image-via-Heddels.

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If you’re reading this, you’re more than likely familiar with the deck jumper and chambray shirt (the latter of which has been reproduced by Buzz Rickson’s for years). However, the trousers of the WWII USN Dungaree uniform don’t get anywhere near as much love in the heritage niche when compared to the jumper and chambray shirt. Other than The Real McCoy’s and Dawson Denim, I can’t think of any big-name heritage/repro label that has reproduced the Naval Dungaree Trousers. Which is surprising, considering certain patterns of WWII USN Dungaree Trousers are pretty interesting.

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Reproduction 1941-pattern USN Dungaree Trousers via WWII Impressions (left) and The Real McCoy’s (right). The WWII Impressions pair is modeled with repro chambray shirt and standard-issue black webbing belt.

The Dungaree Trousers issued in 1941 were wide-leg blue denim pants with two large patch pockets on the front which often spanned around the thigh and towards the seat. They had a super high rise, and most interestingly, no outseam. This key characteristic of the original design means that each leg is cut from a single piece of fabric. Some say that this construction method meant there were fewer needle holes in the pant from stitching, allowing the trousers to retain more air if they had to be used as a flotation device in a pinch, others say that it was a manufacturing shortcut.

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A pair of original WWII USN Dungaree Trousers with outseams and smaller patch pockets, acquired from the estate of Jeff Warner. Images via Ima USA.

I have researched the WWII Dungaree uniform and cannot find when Dungaree Trousers with outseams were introduced, but they certainly seem to be the more common. Pictured above is a pair from WWII seen in the book, US Navy Uniforms and Insignia 1943-146, by Jeff Warner. By being featured in this book, one can assume that this pattern was perhaps introduced in the latter stages of WWII. Outseam-less patterns with the wrap-around patch pockets did continue to be used, though, as indicated by the Cold War era pair pictured below.

A pair of Early Cold War-era USN Dungaree Trousers via Intrepid Museum

Mystery Smock

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An original (?) USN Gunner Smock via Saunders Militaria (left) and The Real McCoy’s U.S. Navy Denim Parka via The Real McCoy’s.

A jacket touted as a US Navy ‘Gunner’ Smock/Parka has been reproduced by brands like Pherrow’s, The Real McCoy’s, and Bronson Mfg. but information on this style is extremely limited. The Real McCoy’s states that this is an unofficial piece of uniform, which was originally produced by the Zielinski Company, which is famous for producing the 37J1B in the late 1930s. Considering this manufacturer made winter camouflage smocks for the Battle of the Bulge, it makes sense that they would also have produced these denim smocks, even if only for a very short while and potentially outside of USN contract.

Proof that this jacket was used by the United States Navy can be seen in the form of this image of the crew upon the USS Indianapolis in 1942.

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African-American Mess Attendants in battle dress, July 1942. These men had volunteered for additional duty as gunners. Image via Naval History and Heritage Command

Post-WWII

Denim continued to be used by the U.S. Navy for decades after WWII, but the Navy didn’t produce any classics that are referenced or reproduced in our niche today. Dungarees continued to incorporate denim items like trousers and jackets but these became optional as the years went by. Denim shorts and skirts were issued to female officers in the 60s and 70s, but denim seemed to phase out of men’s working uniforms.

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An excerpt from the United States Navy Uniform Regulations, 1975.

During the Vietnam war, some Navy SEALs preferred Levi’s jeans instead of standard-issue dungarees.

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In conclusion, it seems as though the use of denim in the Navy peaked in WWII and gradually tapered off over the next 50 years. That said, the denim garb issued by the US Navy is certainly iconic, and the WWII-era uniform with the chambray will go down as one of the most handsome working uniforms ever produced.

Worthwhile Reproductions

Dawson Denim Deck Pants, available for $335 from Dawson Denim.

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Inspired by the first issued Dunagree Jumpers, Warehouse & Co.’s Lot 2141 USN Denim Pullover Jacket is available for $360 ($324 for Heddels+ members) from Clutch Cafe.

Buzz Rickson’s BR11703A U.S. Navy Pullover Jacket, $220 from Hinoya.

At The Front Repro Dungaree Trousers, available for $74.99 from At The Front.

Repro USN Dungaree Jumper, available for $85 from WWII Impressions.

Gallery

Dungarees in action via TimandMoby99 on Reddit

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Enlisted men (who can be seen wearing dungaree trousers) exhausted after more than 24 hours at general quarters, sleep in tangled patterns aboard the USS Lexington (CV-16). 12.05.1943. Image via National Archives and Records Administration.