Selvedge Ecru Jeans – Five Plus One

Five Plus One is our weekly series of buyer’s guides. We pick a specific category and dig up five great options along with one that’s a little outside the norm.


While you can certainly wear classic blue jeans in the summer, having some quality ecru denim opens up a world of styling opportunities. It goes with everything — seriously, everything — and its light, natural tone just works wonders on bright, sunny days. Sure, you don’t have the same level of denim evolution as you would on a raw indigo pair, but you can opt to either keep your ecru jeans clean, or wear them as hard as your raws and watch them gain a rugged, grubby patina.

Some of your favorite brands are making high-quality ecru jeans out of premium fabrics, from selvedge denim to cotton piqué. And with warmer upon us, there couldn’t be a better time to give the ecru jeans market our beloved Five Plus One treatment.

1) Fullcount 0105EC Wide Straight Ecru

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When it comes to Japanese denim, Fullcount simply cannot be ignored. A name that holds a lot of weight on both the East and Western hemispheres, Fullcount makes some of the world’s finest selvedge denim jeans — including a few Ecru pairs.

The 0105 is one of its Fullcount’s classic cuts, and despite receiving a minor update in the last couple of years it’s still a true wide-straight fit with a Goldilocks top block that allows it to remain flattering despite the loose cut. And guess what? It looks absolutely killer in this 13.75 oz. ecru selvedge denim. Woven on vintage shuttle looms from 100% Zimbabwean cotton, expect this fabric to soften up quickly and drape nicely underneath your favorite camp collar shirts.

Each pair is made in Japan with vintage jean construction details and one washed to remove shrinkage.

Available at Blue in Green for $330.

2) Hatski Selvedge Washi Denim Ecru

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The Japanese cellulosic yarn, Washi, has started popping up in our corner of the clothing world and it’s an interesting addition to say the least. Made from the same natural material that creates the paper screens on Japanese Shoji doors, Washi fibers and their resulting yarns can have some cool benefits like moisture wicking, odor prevention, and a soft skin feel.

Japanese denim-centric label, Hatski, has taken to using Washi in a fair few of their denim offerings, including this 15.6 oz. sanforized ecru selvedge denim. Made from 72% cotton and 28% Washi yarns, this ecru fabric is available on Hatski’s Loose Tapered and Wide Tapered fits, both of which offer roominess levels ideal for summer fits. Made in Japan, each pair is sewn up with classic five-pocket jean details like hidden rivets, a button fly, contrast stitching, and a debossed cow leather waist patch.

Available for $282 from Calculus.

3) Freenote Cloth Wilkes Western 14 oz. Ecru Denim

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You can always count on Freenote Cloth to introduce a style that errs on the Western side of things, offering a unique Americana flavor that few other brands can. Seriously, you can easily see these Wilkes Western 14 oz. Ecru Denim jeans hanging in the window of an American dry goods store 60 or so years ago — a great compliment to a proprietary, non-reproduction design.

Made in the USA from 14 oz. Japanese ecru selvedge denim, it’s safe to say that this rendition of Freenote Cloth’s Wilkes jean looks excellent in ecru. If you’re not familiar with the Wilkes, it’s a ‘Western’ straight-leg silhouette with a high rise reminiscent of, but slightly wider than, the iconic Wrangler 13WMZ.

Each pair is made with neat ‘n’ tuff flat felled seams, Japanese herringbone pocket bags, double-needle accents, and a two-piece waistband. Aside from the custom rivets and button tacks, the most interesting piece of hardware is the love-it-or-hate-it zipper fly, made in Georgia by YKK.

Available at Iron Shop Provisions for $265.

4) Companion Denim Joel 029N Ecru Selvedge Japan

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Companion Denim is a hidden gem denim label that’s been making super high-quality denim goods on the outskirts of Barcelona for over 10 years, now. They set their goods apart with a range of unique details like hand-felled yokes, selvedge loops for your keys, shell stitching, and even cord belts.

Companion’s 029N fabric is a sanforized 13 oz. ecru Japanese selvedge denim that’s perfect for summer. Each pair is made to order, which is great because it means you can choose from any of Companion Denim’s fits, from a hugging slim fit to a wide-straight. Regardless of what silhouette you choose, each pair will be cut and sewn by no more than 2 pairs of hands in their Sabadell workshop, complete with a hand-felled yoke, selvedge loop above the left hand-pocket, chain stitch hemming, “peek-a-boo” selvedge coin pocket, and more.

Available at Companion Denim (2-4 week lead time) for 295 (~$320USD).

5) Benzak Denim Developers B-01 Slim & B-04 Relaxed in 14 oz. Selvedge Colour Denim Ecru

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Benzak Denim Developers has always got a range of denim fabrics to choose from, so it comes as no surprise that they’ve got some ecru goodness in their ranks. The Dutch denim label is coming in hot with 14 oz. ecru selvedge from Japan’s famous Collect Mills, available on both the brand’s B-04 Relax Taper and B-01 Slim Straight cuts. We’re loving the little flecks of darker natural cotton running through this mid-weight fabric, which is complemented by the equally tactile jacron (paper) waist patch. Texture for days.

Made in Portugal and one-washed to remove shrinkage, each pair of Benzak B-04 and B-01 Ecru Selvedge Denim Jeans is constructed with stainless steel buttons, copper rivets, a button fly, and tonal Ecru cotton-poly pocket bags. Benzak has also specced the jeans with cotton-poly core-spun thread for heavy-duty stitching that should see these jeans live out many summers.

Available at Benzak Denim Developers for €190 (~$206USD).

Plus One – Iron Heart 14 oz. Cotton Piqué Straight Cut Jeans – Ecru

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At first glance, these Iron Heart jeans may not look like they’re ‘different’ enough for the ‘Plus One’ spot of our Five Plus One guides, but take a second look and you’ll see that they’re made from cotton piqué, and not denim (also not selvedge, but that’s what the Plus One is for).

Corduroy and Cotton piqué jeans were popular in the 60s, with Levi’s and Wrangler being big producers of five-pocket pants from these alternative cotton materials. Looking back to this era but applying their Japanese-made, robust production formula, Iron Heart has arguably resurrected this style but even better.

Coming in Iron Heart’s 634 silhouette that offers a slim-straight leg with a medium rise, the IH-634-PIQ is made from a 14 oz.  cotton piqué and comes with all the classic IH trimmings like reinforced belt loops, lined rear pockets, hidden rivets, and poly/cotton constructional stitching for ultimate durability. They’ve been one washed to remove shrinkage, but Iron Heart states the waist will stretch out approximately one inch with wear — so keep that in mind before ordering.

Available at Iron Heart for $265.