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KATO’s 4-way stretch selvedge is woven in Japan on vintage Toyoda shuttle looms using 96% cotton and 4% polyurethane. The addition of polyurethane is far from groundbreaking, but KATO’s proprietary weaving method certainly is. Firstly, they use core-spun yarns which are comprised of a polyurethane filament core with cotton filaments coiled around it, thus hiding the polyurethane. As well as facilitating fades, these yarns mean you don’t get the sheen that you see on mass-produced stretch denim, which typically uses 100% polyurethane yarns for the weft, resulting in artificial-looking luster.
Core spun yarn diagram via Salud Style.
KATO achieves its proprietary 4-way stretch by weaving these core-spun yarns into the warp and weft parts of the weaving process, meaning that the resulting denim can stretch horizontally and vertically. This prevents 4-way stretch selvedge from sagging too much at, say, the knees or elbows. Trust us, whatever gripes you had that stretch selvedge, KATO listened and solved them.
Faded example of 14 oz. Indigo Raw 4-Way Stretch Selvedge Denim
Sitting firmly at the intersection of authenticity and comfort, KATO’s 4-way stretch selvedge comes in a range of weights and colors. From 10.5 oz. perfect for the milder temps on the horizon, all the way to 17.5 oz., there’s something for denim heads across the spectrum. These fabrics feature across KATO’s diverse roster of fits, including their brand new wider-fitting silhouette, The Barrel.
Head over to Hiroshi KATO to check out the full collection, available from $209.
Want to learn more about Hiroshi KATO’s manufacturing processes? Check out Inside Hiroshi KATO – Making a Pair of Jeans in their LA Factory
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