Burgus Plus‘ goal is to create the ‘ultimate basics’. The Lot. 968 arguably surpasses this goal with Greencast selvedge denim made into a late-1960s cut with a bunch of lovely details.
Burgus Plus is the in-house label and top-selling brand at Hinoya, an OG of the Tokyo denim scene that opened its doors back in 1973. This particular beautiful pair of denim is based on a pair of jeans just five years older than the store itself, from 1968 — giving them their moniker the Lot. 968. The silhouette is a classic ’60s Levi’s 501 silhouette — a perfect mid rise, not too deep, not too shallow, a looser thigh, and a light taper to the leg. There’s a reason it’s a classic, and that’s because it really doesn’t need to be changed.
The denim itself is exceptional. It’s a 14 oz selvedge denim that has a green cast. What this means is that the warp has been dyed in both green sulfur and indigo. This gives the warp the slightest greenish tinge, which, when combined with the beige weft, will become more and more evident and exposed as the jeans fade with wear. Both the warps and wefts are sliub yarns, giving the resulting denim a rough hand feel that will expedite the fading process.
Oh, and the best thing about them? They come in at just 200 bucks. For proprietary selvedge denim, made in Japan, with details like custom hardware, leather-backed rear rivets, chain stitched yokes and hems — that’s a steal.
Available from Hinoya for $200.