The Neist overshirt has become a Kestin classic over past seasons (Image via Kestin)<\/p><\/div>\n
My degree at Northumberland was four years which include a one year placement. The Creative Director at Reiss<\/strong>\u2014Lionel Cockley\u2014had set a brief for our students and the winner would get a three month placement with the company. I won and it ended up being a twelve-month placement with the brand, which was a very different brand to what it is now. <\/span><\/p>\nDavid Reiss is an amazing man and the brand was just finding its feet. It was a small team and David had been buying Italian collections to sell in his store on the King\u2019s Road in Chelsea. I think he felt he could do it better and decided to start his own brand under his namesake. It was my first real experience of working in a studio environment and I found myself fascinated by it all. <\/span><\/p>\nI thought I\u2019m going to throw myself into this 100% and I was going to absorb every single bit of it. I remember David standing over me and I had to have a really steady hand when drawing (I guess that\u2019s where my dad\u2019s architecture came in). I felt like I\u2019d found my calling. I had a great time at Reiss; they ended up sponsoring my final degree show and offering me a job after graduation.<\/span><\/p>\nEven since his early days being around Nigel Cabourn, Kestin has always acknowledged the importance of tailoring, fine fabrics and inspiration from vintage pieces (image via Kestin)<\/p><\/div>\n
I went back to London after graduation, but during my final year I\u2019d spent more time at Nigel\u2019s studio and became quite obsessed by inspiration from the vintage pieces he\u2019d collected. This was on the eve of \u2018The Ascent of Cabourn\u2019 collection and it was an amazing time to be there. <\/span><\/p>\nWhile I was down in London, a job came up with Nigel and a woman I was seeing at the time was from the North East. So I moved back to and Gary was moving on, so I got pushed to the front by Nigel and became Head of Design fairly quickly. We had a great relationship with the Japanese at the time and it was like a big family environment. <\/span><\/p>\nWe designed and produced limited edition collections that were amazing, I\u2019m not sure we realized how good they were at the time!<\/span><\/p>\nI then went through a change in my life and things came to an end at Nigel Cabourn after four years, so I moved back to Edinburgh. I started to do freelance work with Burberry<\/strong> and Margaret Howell<\/strong>, but I really wanted to start running things by myself\u2014as I\u2019d be effectively doing that at Nigel Cabourn\u2014using the factories I\u2019d built relationships with.<\/span><\/p>\n(Image via Kestin)<\/p><\/div>\n
H:\u00a0 <\/b>Did you always want your own brand eventually\u2014was that the intention all along?<\/span><\/p>\n KH:<\/strong>\u00a0 When I finished studying I wanted to work for a Burberry or a Watanabe\u2014I wanted to work for a brand name. It developed organically over time and from working with such a small team at Nigel Cabourn, I felt I could do it myself. I had good relationships with factories that we\u2019d worked with but I didn\u2019t have enough experience to go it alone (although I thought I did!). <\/span><\/p>\nThe first time I tried to do things myself it didn\u2019t really work, so I continued to freelance.<\/span><\/p>\nIt wasn\u2019t until I got introduced to somebody that was trying to set up a menswear brand\u2014he already had a shoe brand at the time, but wanted to do clothing\u2014which became Common People<\/strong>. He was making shoes in Northampton but also wanted to make clothes in the UK. I was introduced as the person who could help realize that. <\/span><\/p>\nIt began as freelance work and we ended up getting into some great accounts, but we couldn\u2019t finance the production and he couldn\u2019t afford to pay me. So I took some equity in the business and we made some small runs in factories that I\u2019d used before, but finance was still tough.<\/span><\/p>\nThe Cruise Store in Leith which acts as the flagship for the Kestin brand (Image via Kestin)<\/p><\/div>\n
We launched in Japan very quickly, on the back of my history and reputation there from my time at Nigel Cabourn. The \u2018Made in the UK\u2019 thing and history appealed to the Japanese and they were fairly easy to deal with through a trading company. But, the business wasn\u2019t really mine and it was difficult to progress the situation. <\/span><\/p>\nWe decided to draw a line under it and my Japanese partner at the time suggested moving on and changing the name. He felt that using my name would be beneficial because people respected what I\u2019d done and there was already a following. It\u2019s also more personable\u2014and he was right. It was never my intention to use my own name for my brand, it just evolved that way organically. <\/span><\/p>\n I was back in Edinburgh freelancing but in the meantime had met a very lovely Scottish woman who was working in London and I decided to move back down there. Most of the work was down there at the time anyway and I fell in love with London again. I\u2019ve got very fond memories of living in North London which is a beautiful, fantastic, and warm place.<\/span><\/p>\nPart of the Kestin flagship store in Leith (Image via Kestin)<\/p><\/div>\n
I\u2019ve always been a big believer in the arts and being influenced by all types of artistic disciplines. It was important to me that we surrounded ourselves with people involved with these things when we went back to Edinburgh. And you need these disciplines along the way; photographers, designers, and artists etc. I\u2019ve found you get the best results if you immerse yourself right in the thick of that culture. When we came back to Edinburgh, Leith was (and still is) the place to do that. <\/span><\/p>\nMy friend and I have very much developed a creative \u2018hub\u2019 within Leith which is called Custom Lane, it acts as a studio space that backs onto the Cruiser Store which is our flagship in Leith. We have a gallery space with a great art program, guys roasting their own coffee, a yoga studio and the Edinburgh Tool Library (a charity that you can borrow and rent power tools and work tools from) also has its home there. <\/span><\/p>\nIt\u2019s a very collaborative environment, we\u2019ve really curated the mix of people within the space and we all share the studio together. It\u2019s really important for the brand too, as it\u2019s about much more than just clothes. It\u2019s about everything.<\/span><\/p>\nKestin and his team work meticulously close with their chosen factories to ensure the quality of fabric and garment, producing in the UK whenever possible (Image via Kestin)<\/p><\/div>\n
H:\u00a0 <\/b>There have been stories and concepts behind each season for the brand, tell us a little more about creating collections which are \u2018more than just product\u2019?<\/span><\/p>\n KH:<\/strong>\u00a0 I\u2019ve never been a great fan of calling clothing \u2018product\u2019, as it makes it sounds too much like marketing and it\u2019s about much more than the clothes. It\u2019s about a lifestyle. Menswear as we know is about the narrative, and consumers are much more savvy as to how and where things are made. It\u2019s what we believe in too, it\u2019s about an experience. <\/span><\/p>\nI\u2019m probably my own worst enemy in terms of pressure on myself to continually make things better and improve what we\u2019re doing. But at the end of the day I\u2019m very lucky\u2014although I\u2019ve worked bloody hard!\u2014and it\u2019s been through people that I\u2019ve met along the way that have inspired me. <\/span>Which is why I think it\u2019s important to give something back to designers coming through. <\/span><\/p>\nWe\u2019ve also had fantastic support from the customers over the years, I can\u2019t thank them enough. We\u2019re fortunate to be doing what we love doing, so hopefully that continues.<\/span><\/p>\nPart of the AW19 collection ‘In High Places’ which included a collaboration with famed outdoor brand Blacks of Greenock (Image via Kestin)<\/p><\/div>\n
H:\u00a0 <\/b>What\u2019s next for Kestin\u2014the brand and the person?<\/span><\/p>\n KH:\u00a0<\/strong> We\u2019re working on some exciting projects for the future which I can\u2019t talk about too much but a great collaboration with a British heritage brand which we\u2019ll show during Paris fashion week. It\u2019s a different type of product and it\u2019s been a challenge for our design team, but we\u2019ve really enjoyed working on it. <\/span><\/p>\nI\u2019d also like to produce womenswear in the future as well, as we\u2019re getting a lot of women buying our clothes (and looking great in them), so there\u2019s the demand for that already. It would be nice to do a few ladies pieces in future. <\/span><\/p>\nWe\u2019ll continue to try to push the boundaries of collections and making garments within the UK, which is really important to us. We already cut our own patterns in-house in Leith but it would be great to manufacture some small runs of garments there too. Hopefully we can continue to invest in a bigger, better, and more local design team and studio environment.<\/span><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"The menswear world is built on those who have dedicated their lives to their craft and perfected their skills, often…<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":129,"featured_media":151638,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":[],"categories":[651],"tags":[21863,3986,1438],"acf":{"published_feed_date":"2020-03-19 00:01:29"},"yoast_head":"\n
Coming Full Circle - In Conversation With Kestin Hare<\/title>\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n\t \n\t \n\t \n \n \n \n \n \n\t \n\t \n\t \n