{"id":26760,"date":"2014-05-28T00:01:36","date_gmt":"2014-05-28T06:01:36","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/rawrdenim.wpengine.com\/?p=26760"},"modified":"2018-05-09T12:37:02","modified_gmt":"2018-05-09T18:37:02","slug":"east-coast-meets-west-epaulets-epla-denim-collection","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.heddels.com\/2014\/05\/east-coast-meets-west-epaulets-epla-denim-collection\/","title":{"rendered":"Epaulet&#8217;s EPLA Denim Collection: East Coast Meets West"},"content":{"rendered":"<p>It\u2019s not often that you can say the names <a title=\"Meet Your Maker \u2013 Japanese Denim Mills\" href=\"https:\/\/www.heddels.com\/2013\/04\/meet-your-maker-japanese-denim-mills\/\"><b><i>Kuroki<\/i><\/b><\/a>,<a title=\"Meet Your Maker \u2013 Japanese Denim Mills\" href=\"https:\/\/www.heddels.com\/2013\/04\/meet-your-maker-japanese-denim-mills\/\"><b><i> Kurabo<\/i><\/b><\/a>,<a title=\"Meet Your Maker \u2013 Japanese Denim Mills\" href=\"https:\/\/www.heddels.com\/2013\/04\/meet-your-maker-japanese-denim-mills\/\"><b><i> Kaihara<\/i><\/b><\/a>,<a title=\"Meet Your Maker: Cone Mills Of Greensboro, North Carolina\" href=\"https:\/\/www.heddels.com\/2013\/03\/meet-your-maker-cone-mills-of-greensboro-north-carolina\/\"><b><i> Cone<\/i><\/b><\/a>, and<a href=\"https:\/\/www.heddels.com\/?s=nihon+menpu&amp;x=0&amp;y=0\"><b><i> Nihon Menpu <\/i><\/b><\/a>(all well-respected denim mills) and be talking about one denim brand. But New York\u2019s\u00a0<b><i>Epaulet<\/i><\/b> has included a variety of denim from all of these mills in their <b><i>EPLA <\/i><\/b>collection. In the words of\u00a0<strong>Michael Kuhle<\/strong>, co-founder and designer, &#8220;It&#8217;s more interesting this way. Our customers are VERY well informed on denim, and most of them have a lot of their jeans bases covered. Introducing a &#8216;raw&#8217; collection in something common would have little appeal for them outside of the fit.&#8221;<\/p>\n<p><img decoding=\"async\" loading=\"lazy\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-26878\" src=\"https:\/\/www.heddels.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/05\/epaulet-storefront-final.jpg\" alt=\"epaulet storefront final\" width=\"770\" height=\"515\" \/><\/p><div class=\"related_posts evergreen_funnels\"><h3>Like this? Read these:<\/h3><div class=\"flex space-x-4\"><div class=\"related_post w-1\/2\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.heddels.com\/2017\/10\/lee-jeans-history-philosophy-iconic-products\/\"><img width=\"360\" height=\"225\" src=\"data:image\/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAAAAACH5BAEKAAEALAAAAAABAAEAAAICTAEAOw==\" data-src=\"https:\/\/www.heddels.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/09\/lee-jeans-history-philosophy-and-iconic-products-buddy-lee-doll-image-via-ruby-lane-inc-360x225.jpg\" class=\"left wp-post-image\" alt=\"Lee-Jeans---History,-Philosophy,-and-Iconic-Products-Buddy-Lee-Doll.-Image-via-Ruby-Lane-Inc.\" decoding=\"async\" loading=\"lazy\" \/><noscript><img width=\"360\" height=\"225\" src=\"https:\/\/www.heddels.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/09\/lee-jeans-history-philosophy-and-iconic-products-buddy-lee-doll-image-via-ruby-lane-inc-360x225.jpg\" class=\"left wp-post-image\" alt=\"Lee-Jeans---History,-Philosophy,-and-Iconic-Products-Buddy-Lee-Doll.-Image-via-Ruby-Lane-Inc.\" decoding=\"async\" loading=\"lazy\" \/><\/noscript><h4>Lee Jeans &#8211; History, Philosophy, and Iconic Products<\/h4><\/a><\/div><div class=\"related_post w-1\/2\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.heddels.com\/2020\/08\/toyo-enterprise-closer-look-multi-faceted-japanese-heritage-clothing-giant\/\"><img width=\"360\" height=\"225\" src=\"data:image\/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAAAAACH5BAEKAAEALAAAAAABAAEAAAICTAEAOw==\" data-src=\"https:\/\/www.heddels.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/07\/toyo-enterprise-a-closer-look-at-the-multi-faceted-japanese-heritage-clothing-giant-360x225.jpg\" class=\"left wp-post-image\" alt=\"Toyo-Enterprise---A-Closer-Look-At-The-Multi-Faceted-Japanese-Heritage-Clothing-Giant\" decoding=\"async\" loading=\"lazy\" \/><noscript><img width=\"360\" height=\"225\" src=\"https:\/\/www.heddels.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/07\/toyo-enterprise-a-closer-look-at-the-multi-faceted-japanese-heritage-clothing-giant-360x225.jpg\" class=\"left wp-post-image\" alt=\"Toyo-Enterprise---A-Closer-Look-At-The-Multi-Faceted-Japanese-Heritage-Clothing-Giant\" decoding=\"async\" loading=\"lazy\" \/><\/noscript><h4>Toyo Enterprise &#8211; A Closer Look At The Multi-Faceted Japanese Heritage Clothing Giant<\/h4><\/a><\/div><\/div><\/div>\n<p>Epaulet has operated out of two stores in New York City since 2008. They&#8217;ve released both men\u2019s and women\u2019s collections including a large collection of button-ups, chinos, shoes, and accessories. The <b><i>EPLA <\/i><\/b>collection is intended to be a complementary collection that is more casual than its New York counterpart. It features a selection of denim pants, shirts, and jackets, along with button-up oxfords, t-shirts, and sweatshirts. Most of it&#8217;s menswear staples but there are a few directional pieces thrown in for good measure and it&#8217;s all made\u00a0in their Downtown LA factory.<\/p>\n<p>We&#8217;ve chosen a few denim stand-outs from the collection to highlight below. All of the denim is once-washed to avoid shrinkage. Raw purists may balk at such seeming sacrilege but Kuhle says, &#8220;Don&#8217;t fear the rinse!\u00a0We&#8217;ve found that the practice of wearing your jeans for months without washing is enough to get an excellent fade out of them.&#8221;<\/p>\n<p>All of the different <a title=\"Selvedge Denim (also Self-Edge or Selvage) \u2013 Dictionary Term\" href=\"https:\/\/www.heddels.com\/dictionary\/s\/selvage-denim-self-edge-selvedge\/\">selvedge<\/a> fabrics for the jeans come in their\u00a0<b>Wilshire <\/b>fit, a five-pocket mid-rise slim-fit that is comparable to the <strong>Rivet Chinos<\/strong> in their New York collection. And Kuhle&#8217;s pretty confident about it, &#8220;I&#8217;d say that the\u00a0Wilshire\u00a0jean is one of the absolute best fits on the market, but that&#8217;s subjective. One man&#8217;s great fit is another man&#8217;s denim legging or MC Hammer pant.&#8221;\u00a0Each pair has a 36.5 inch inseam and features hidden rivets on the back pockets, custom hardware, and a <b>Chromexcel<\/b> leather patch from the revered <b>Horween<\/b>\u00a0tannery in Chicago.<\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: center;\"><img decoding=\"async\" loading=\"lazy\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-26848\" src=\"https:\/\/www.heddels.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/05\/ring-ring-final.jpg\" alt=\"EPLA ring ring final\" width=\"770\" height=\"515\" \/><\/p>\n<p>One of their more interesting fabrics is a 13 ounce Kaihara Ring-Ring denim. Most\u00a0<a title=\"Ring Spun Denim \u2013 Dictionary Term\" href=\"https:\/\/www.heddels.com\/dictionary\/r\/ring-spun-denim\/\">ring-spun<\/a>\u00a0denim\u00a0is made with ring-spun<a title=\"Warp \u2013 Dictionary Term\" href=\"https:\/\/www.heddels.com\/dictionary\/w\/warp\/\"> warp<\/a>\u00a0yarns and<a title=\"Open End Denim \u2013 Dictionary Term\" href=\"https:\/\/www.heddels.com\/dictionary\/o\/open-end-denim\/\"> open-end<\/a> spun <a title=\"Weft (also Filling) \u2013 Dictionary Term\" href=\"https:\/\/www.heddels.com\/dictionary\/w\/weft-filling\/\">weft<\/a>\u00a0yarn. <span style=\"text-decoration: underline;\">Kaihara<\/span> has made this fabric by using ring-spun denim for<a title=\"Dual Ring-Spun \u2013 Dictionary Term\" href=\"https:\/\/www.heddels.com\/dictionary\/d\/dual-ring-spun\/\"> both the warp and the weft<\/a> (hence the name), resulting in a softer hand with uneven texture. The weaving process has also caused the indigo from the warp to bleed into the weft, giving it a deeper blue tint. You can see the comparison between the Ring-Ring and their\u00a0Kuroki denim above.<\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: center;\"><img decoding=\"async\" loading=\"lazy\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-26853\" src=\"https:\/\/www.heddels.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/05\/kurabo-grey-1-final.jpg\" alt=\"EPLA kurabo grey 1 final\" width=\"770\" height=\"514\" \/><\/p>\n<p>This dark grey 14-ounce denim comes from <span style=\"text-decoration: underline;\">Kurabo<\/span> and features tonal stitching which blends in with the denim. It has a distinctive color that stops short of being entirely black.<\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: center;\"><img decoding=\"async\" loading=\"lazy\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-26846\" src=\"https:\/\/www.heddels.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/05\/kurabo-grey-2-final.jpg\" alt=\"EPLA kurabo grey 2 final\" width=\"770\" height=\"514\" \/><\/p>\n<p>Unlike the the 14-ounce\u00a0<b>Overdye<\/b>\u00a0Kaihara\u00a0denim achieves its inky dark color by going through a\u00a0<a title=\"Overdye \u2013 Dictionary Term\" href=\"https:\/\/www.heddels.com\/dictionary\/o\/overdye\/\">special process<\/a>\u00a0after being assembled. It sees a series of six special dye treatments and washes, with the warp and weft absorbing the dye, which gives it the overall navy color and a soft hand.<\/p>\n<p>The\u00a0<b>Lightweight<\/b>\u00a0is, as its name suggests, a lighter option, with 12-ounce\u00a0Kuroki\u00a0denim.\u00a0 The warp is a standard indigo, but the weft is grey-tinted, giving it a muted hue.<\/p>\n<div id=\"attachment_26847\" style=\"width: 780px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><img aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-26847\" decoding=\"async\" loading=\"lazy\" class=\"size-full wp-image-26847\" src=\"https:\/\/www.heddels.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/05\/overdye-lightweight-final.jpg\" alt=\"EPLA overdye lightweight final\" width=\"770\" height=\"515\" \/><p id=\"caption-attachment-26847\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Overdye (left) and Lightweight (right)<\/p><\/div>\n<p>In addition to jeans, the <b><i>EPLA<\/i><\/b> collection features a number of denim jackets.\u00a0Made from the same denim as the\u00a0<b>Overdye<\/b>\u00a0jeans above, the\u00a0<b>Doyle<\/b>\u00a0jacket reflects the tradition of the classic French work jacket. True to its roots, it is informed by a minimalist aesthetic, with a few fancy touches. It features two-way patch pockets that can be entered from the above or the side. It also has hidden copper rivets and taped seams to provide added durability to the sturdy 14-ounce denim.<\/p>\n<div id=\"attachment_26851\" style=\"width: 780px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><img aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-26851\" decoding=\"async\" loading=\"lazy\" class=\"size-full wp-image-26851\" src=\"https:\/\/www.heddels.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/05\/doyle-kamigata-final.jpg\" alt=\"EPLA doyle kamigata final\" width=\"770\" height=\"385\" \/><p id=\"caption-attachment-26851\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Doyle (left) and Kamigata (Right)<\/p><\/div>\n<p>And although it sold out within hours of becoming available, another stand-out piece in the collection is the <b>Kamigata<\/b> jacket. Here we have an example of America \u201cdoing\u201d Japan, rather than the other way around.\u00a0 The jacket is a take on the \u201cnoragi,\u201d a traditional Japanese farmer\u2019s jacket. It features a shawl placket and square bottom, with a few updated details like a button to close the jacket and button cuffs.\u00a0 It\u2019s made from 9-ounce natural indigo denim from Nihon Menpu.<\/p>\n<p>Along with the classic button-down oxfords, the collection includes denim shirts in two different designs. Both shirts are slim fit and made from the same 9-ounce denim as the Kamigata above. While the weight would be light for jeans, it\u2019s relatively heavy for a denim shirt, which should provide some interesting creases and fade patterns.<\/p>\n<div id=\"attachment_26852\" style=\"width: 780px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><img aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-26852\" decoding=\"async\" loading=\"lazy\" class=\"size-full wp-image-26852\" src=\"https:\/\/www.heddels.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/05\/engineer-western-final.jpg\" alt=\"EPLA engineer western final\" width=\"770\" height=\"385\" \/><p id=\"caption-attachment-26852\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Engineer (left) and Western (right)<\/p><\/div>\n<p>The <b>Engineer Shirt <\/b>is their version of a classic work shirt, but they really go the extra mile on the details. The chest pocket has a convertible flap (meaning you can button it up or down) plus a point collar with a button-over tab, <a title=\"Know Your Terminology: Overlock Stitch vs. Flat-Felled Seam\" href=\"https:\/\/www.heddels.com\/2014\/04\/know-terminology-overlock-stitch-vs-flat-felled-seam\/\">flat-felled seams<\/a> on the shoulders, a <a title=\"Chain Stitching \u2013 Dictionary Term\" href=\"https:\/\/www.heddels.com\/dictionary\/c\/chain-stitching\/\">chainstitched<\/a> placket, tonal stitching, and tortoise resin buttons.<\/p>\n<p>The <b>Western Shirt <\/b>features the elements of a classic western-style shirt, with a point collar, dyed resin snap buttons, flat felled shoulder seams, a chainstitched placket, and a double-stitched western-style<a title=\"Yoke \u2013 Dictionary Term\" href=\"https:\/\/www.heddels.com\/dictionary\/y\/yoke\/\"> yoke<\/a>. The stitching is a contrasting gold thread.<\/p>\n<p>Another standout of\u00a0Epaulet\u00a0in general is their price point&#8211;jeans and shirts are no more than $150 USD and jackets top out at $195. Kuhle<strong>\u00a0<\/strong>explains, &#8220;We sell directly to customers and we&#8217;ll source off-price fabrics wherever possible, so many of our products are 30% to 40% less expensive than the alternatives out there. Some things in our collection are inexpensive and some are very expensive. But nothing is ever overpriced.&#8221; Talking\u00a0about prices was something that brands never used to do, but in the digital age of information, some brands\u00a0are finally coming clean about production cost and retail prices in refreshing transparency.<\/p>\n<p>Check out the full EPLA collection on\u00a0their website.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>It\u2019s not often that you can say the names Kuroki, Kurabo, Kaihara, Cone, and Nihon Menpu (all well-respected denim mills) and be talking about one denim brand.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":52,"featured_media":27184,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":[],"categories":[627],"tags":[2184,2238,3584,3529,1100,2093,1823,1590],"acf":{"published_feed_date":"2014-05-28 00:01:36"},"yoast_head":"<!-- This site is optimized with the Yoast SEO Premium plugin v21.8 (Yoast SEO v21.8) - https:\/\/yoast.com\/wordpress\/plugins\/seo\/ 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