{"id":57972,"date":"2016-10-12T00:01:42","date_gmt":"2016-10-12T06:01:42","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.heddels.com\/?p=57972"},"modified":"2018-05-09T12:57:30","modified_gmt":"2018-05-09T18:57:30","slug":"souvenir-jackets-a-silken-history","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.heddels.com\/2016\/10\/souvenir-jackets-a-silken-history\/","title":{"rendered":"Souvenir Jackets &#8211; A Silken History of Sukajans"},"content":{"rendered":"<p>By and large, the satin jacket has never had a very good rep. When you think of a guy in one (and I\u2019m being gender specific here), the smarmy type immediately comes to mind, shifty guys who may have an armful of watches to sell you, or perhaps work in the record industry.<\/p>\n<div id=\"attachment_63187\" style=\"width: 1055px\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\"><img aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-63187\" decoding=\"async\" loading=\"lazy\" class=\"size-full wp-image-63187\" src=\"https:\/\/www.heddels.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/souvenir-jackets-a-silken-history-image-1.jpg\" alt=\"souvenir-jackets-a-silken-history-image-1\" width=\"1045\" height=\"699\" \/><p id=\"caption-attachment-63187\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">That is, when there was such a thing as the record industry. Paul Schaefer played this character to a tee as Artie Fufkin in, This Is Spinal Tap.<\/p><\/div>\n<p><img decoding=\"async\" loading=\"lazy\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-63189\" src=\"https:\/\/www.heddels.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/souvenir-jackets-a-silken-history-image-2.jpg\" alt=\"souvenir-jackets-a-silken-history-image-2\" width=\"1045\" height=\"699\" \/><\/p><div class=\"related_posts evergreen_funnels\"><h3>Like this? Read these:<\/h3><div class=\"flex space-x-4\"><div class=\"related_post w-1\/2\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.heddels.com\/2023\/11\/five-finger-fit-the-history-of-gloves\/\"><img width=\"360\" height=\"225\" src=\"data:image\/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAAAAACH5BAEKAAEALAAAAAABAAEAAAICTAEAOw==\" data-src=\"https:\/\/www.heddels.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/11\/five-finger-fit-the-history-of-gloves-image-via-gloversandtannerscom-360x225.jpg\" class=\"left wp-post-image\" alt=\"Five-Finger-Fit-The-History-of-Gloves-Image-via-gloversandtanners.com\" decoding=\"async\" loading=\"lazy\" \/><noscript><img width=\"360\" height=\"225\" src=\"https:\/\/www.heddels.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/11\/five-finger-fit-the-history-of-gloves-image-via-gloversandtannerscom-360x225.jpg\" class=\"left wp-post-image\" alt=\"Five-Finger-Fit-The-History-of-Gloves-Image-via-gloversandtanners.com\" decoding=\"async\" loading=\"lazy\" \/><\/noscript><h4>Five Finger Fit: The History of Gloves<\/h4><\/a><\/div><div class=\"related_post w-1\/2\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.heddels.com\/2019\/10\/behind-bleu-de-travail-denims-european-cousin\/\"><img width=\"360\" height=\"225\" src=\"data:image\/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAAAAACH5BAEKAAEALAAAAAABAAEAAAICTAEAOw==\" data-src=\"https:\/\/www.heddels.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/10\/behind-bleu-de-travail-denims-european-cousin-image-via-house-of-celeste-360x225.jpg\" class=\"left wp-post-image\" alt=\"Behind-Bleu-de-Travail---Denim&#039;s-European-Cousin-Image-via-House-of-Celeste.\" decoding=\"async\" loading=\"lazy\" \/><noscript><img width=\"360\" height=\"225\" src=\"https:\/\/www.heddels.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/10\/behind-bleu-de-travail-denims-european-cousin-image-via-house-of-celeste-360x225.jpg\" class=\"left wp-post-image\" alt=\"Behind-Bleu-de-Travail---Denim&#039;s-European-Cousin-Image-via-House-of-Celeste.\" decoding=\"async\" loading=\"lazy\" \/><\/noscript><h4>Behind Bleu de Travail &#8211; Denim&#8217;s European Cousin<\/h4><\/a><\/div><\/div><\/div>\n<p>Then there is the vintage jock staple of the Starter jacket. Admittedly, I always wanted a Celtics one, but having never seen a Celtics game, I thought better of it. More recently, there was the quilted ivory scorpion number that Ryan Gosling wore in the moodily cinematic, <em>Drive<\/em>.<\/p>\n<p>I once tried on a replica of that one, and quickly discovered that the only thing I couldn\u2019t pass for more than a basketball fan was a moodily cinematic Ryan Gosling.<\/p>\n<p><img decoding=\"async\" loading=\"lazy\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-63191\" src=\"https:\/\/www.heddels.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/souvenir-jackets-a-silken-history-image-4.jpg\" alt=\"souvenir-jackets-a-silken-history-image-4\" width=\"1045\" height=\"699\" \/><\/p>\n<p>However, if there\u2019s one style of satin jacket that I believe I could pull off, it\u2019s the classic WWII Japanese Souvenir Jacket, the<strong> Sukajan<\/strong>. With its contrasting colors and elaborate embroidery of Eastern imagery, the sukajan holds its place as perhaps the only satin jacket that can be worn without a sense of irony. (Well, <em>almost<\/em>\u2014more on that later.)<\/p>\n<p>Like so many of our cherished heritage brand and workwear staples, we have the WWII era to thank for the sukajan\u2019s popularity, notably American G.I.\u2019s. As they prepared to leave Japan after occupation and reconstruction, many had traditional Japanese designs\u2026dragons, maps, cherry blossoms, and geishas amongst the most popular\u2026stitched onto existing jackets, and more popularly on the backs of jackets custom made from rayon and silk. The name Sukajan is an abbreviation of their original Japanese name, Yokusuka Jumper (the jackets were originally popularized by U.S. military personnel around the Yokosuka Air Force Base).<\/p>\n<p><img decoding=\"async\" loading=\"lazy\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-63192\" src=\"https:\/\/www.heddels.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/souvenir-jackets-a-silken-history-image-5.jpg\" alt=\"souvenir-jackets-a-silken-history-image-5\" width=\"1045\" height=\"699\" \/><img decoding=\"async\" loading=\"lazy\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-63193\" src=\"https:\/\/www.heddels.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/souvenir-jackets-a-silken-history-image-6.jpg\" alt=\"souvenir-jackets-a-silken-history-image-6\" width=\"1045\" height=\"699\" \/><\/p>\n<p>Given Japan\u2019s love affair with baseball, it\u2019s no surprise that the jackets were fashioned like early baseball jackets, lightweight \u201cvarsity\u201d styles with the earliest versions from silk salvaged from parachutes. As the servicemen brought them back for themselves or as gifts for family and friends\u2014<em>souvenirs<\/em>\u2014they entered our sartorial consciousness and never left.<\/p>\n<p>Sukajan style jackets made their way back from Korea and Vietnam as well, but it\u2019s the examples from WWII that have had the most lasting impact, and not just stateside.<\/p>\n<p><img decoding=\"async\" loading=\"lazy\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-63195\" src=\"https:\/\/www.heddels.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/souvenir-jackets-a-silken-history-image-8.jpg\" alt=\"souvenir-jackets-a-silken-history-image-8\" width=\"1045\" height=\"699\" \/><\/p>\n<p>As a number of books chronicle (none better than W. David Marx\u2019s, <em><a href=\"https:\/\/www.heddels.com\/2016\/01\/w-david-marx-interview-author-ametora-japan-saved-american-style\/\">Ametora: How Japan Saved American Style<\/a><\/em>)\u00a0as a segment Japan\u2019s youth of the early 1960\u2019s embraced American Ivy style, others rallied against it, adopting the sukajan as their rebel-with-a-cause uniform.<\/p>\n<p><img decoding=\"async\" loading=\"lazy\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-63196\" src=\"https:\/\/www.heddels.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/souvenir-jackets-a-silken-history-image-9.jpg\" alt=\"souvenir-jackets-a-silken-history-image-9\" width=\"1045\" height=\"699\" \/><\/p>\n<p>Like the Schott Perfecto leather jacket in the U.S. (as worn by Marlon Brando in <em>The Wild One<\/em>), the sukajan quickly became associated with Japanese gangs and \u201cjuvenile deliquents,\u201d symbolism that endures and can be seen in contemporary hard-boiled Yakuza films.<\/p>\n<p>Like so much of the good stuff (silk and rayon Hawaiian shirts, Woolrich coats, and quality denim of all makes), sukajan jackets were a thrift store staple from the 1950s through the 1970s. Today\u2026not so much. Snapped up by collectors long ago, the original post-war sujakans have achieved mythic status, and like others who reside on the Mount Olympus of style (Big E Red Tab Levi\u2019s, A-2 bomber jackets, army surplus khakis and field coats, you know, the stuff the Japanese now meticulously remake and sell back to us), perpetually inspire designers to reinvent, reinterpret, and just plain steal.<\/p>\n<p><img decoding=\"async\" loading=\"lazy\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-63197\" src=\"https:\/\/www.heddels.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/souvenir-jackets-a-silken-history-image-10.jpg\" alt=\"souvenir-jackets-a-silken-history-image-10\" width=\"1045\" height=\"699\" \/><\/p>\n<p><img decoding=\"async\" loading=\"lazy\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-63199\" src=\"https:\/\/www.heddels.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/souvenir-jackets-a-silken-history-image-12.jpg\" alt=\"souvenir-jackets-a-silken-history-image-12\" width=\"1045\" height=\"699\" \/><\/p>\n<p>Starting just a couple of years ago, the sukajan could be seen on runways and in designer collections aimed at an audience who\u2019d never set foot in a thrift store.<\/p>\n<p>To illustrate just how mainstream the sujakan has now become\u2026I was shopping on Venice\u2019s oh-so-trendy Abbot Kiney Blvd. this past weekend, and I saw some rather drab (and it\u2019s hard to conjure a drab iteration of a sujakan) take on the style\u2026blah colors, clip-arty designs and overly simplistic embroidery. I asked the woman behind the counter how they were selling, and she said they could <em>barely keep them in stock<\/em>!<\/p>\n<p>At the risk of overgeneralizing, the crowd selling and buying these jackets may indeed be doing so at worst ironically, and at best cluelessly, with little knowledge of the storied past embedded in the DNA of this season\u2019s mass market streetwear. That\u2019s OK. But I do want one, and even if I had the scratch, I\u2019d never be able to find and fit into a vintage sujukan (apparently, there were few lanky 6\u20193 servicemen with a love for colorful Japanese satin), there are faithful reproductions that ooze authenticity and style.<\/p>\n<p><img decoding=\"async\" loading=\"lazy\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-63201\" src=\"https:\/\/www.heddels.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/souvenir-jackets-a-silken-history-image-13.jpg\" alt=\"souvenir-jackets-a-silken-history-image-13\" width=\"1045\" height=\"699\" \/><\/p>\n<p>My favorites are the styles available from <a href=\"https:\/\/www.japan-zone.com\/store\/\">Japan Zone<\/a> (natch), a steal at under $80. They may not be made from old parachutes, but they retain the spirit of their ancestors&#8217; soulful satin, if there ever was such a thing. I just hope Gosling doesn\u2019t read this\u2014the last thing I need is him biting my style\u2026<\/p>\n<p>Other options include offerings from:<\/p>\n<p><img decoding=\"async\" loading=\"lazy\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-64203\" src=\"https:\/\/www.heddels.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/low-hurtz-sukajan.jpg\" alt=\"low-hurtz-sukajan\" width=\"1045\" height=\"699\" \/><\/p>\n<p>Low Hurtz for $465 at <a href=\"https:\/\/blueingreensoho.com\/products\/leopard-sukajan-black?variant=23970897281\">Blue in Green<\/a>.<\/p>\n<p><img decoding=\"async\" loading=\"lazy\" class=\"alignnone size-medium wp-image-64204\" src=\"https:\/\/www.heddels.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/gitman-bros-vintage-sukajan.jpg\" alt=\"gitman-bros-vintage-sukajan\" width=\"1045\" height=\"699\" \/><\/p>\n<p>Gitman Bros. Vintage&#8217;s take on a sukajan shirt for $220 at <a href=\"http:\/\/needsupply.com\/sukajan-shirt-jacket.html\">Need Supply<\/a>.<\/p>\n<p><img decoding=\"async\" loading=\"lazy\" class=\"alignnone size-medium wp-image-64205\" src=\"https:\/\/www.heddels.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/kapital-sukajan.jpg\" alt=\"kapital-sukajan\" width=\"1045\" height=\"699\" \/><\/p>\n<p>Kapital for $400 at <a href=\"https:\/\/www.mrporter.com\/en-us\/mens\/kapital\/embroidered-loopback-cotton-blend-jersey-jacket\/688620\">Mr. Porter<\/a>.<\/p>\n<p><img decoding=\"async\" loading=\"lazy\" class=\"alignnone size-medium wp-image-64206\" src=\"https:\/\/www.heddels.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/vintage-sukajan.jpg\" alt=\"vintage-sukajan\" width=\"1045\" height=\"699\" \/><\/p>\n<p>Or if you&#8217;d like to go the vintage route, there are plenty available like the above at\u00a0<a href=\"http:\/\/japanloverme-store.com\/vintage\/\">Japan Lover Me<\/a>\u00a0and on <a href=\"http:\/\/www.ebay.com\/sch\/i.html?_odkw=vintagesukajan&amp;_osacat=0&amp;_from=R40&amp;_trksid=p2045573.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0.H0.Xvintage+sukajan.TRS0&amp;_nkw=vintage+sukajan&amp;_sacat=0\">eBay<\/a>.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>By and large, the satin jacket has never had a very good rep. When you think of a guy in&#8230;<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":78,"featured_media":63185,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":[],"categories":[4790],"tags":[64,6425,6424],"acf":{"published_feed_date":"2016-10-12 00:01:42"},"yoast_head":"<!-- This site is optimized with the Yoast SEO Premium plugin v21.8 (Yoast SEO v21.8) - https:\/\/yoast.com\/wordpress\/plugins\/seo\/ -->\n<title>Souvenir Jackets - A Silken History of Sukajans<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"We go deep on Sukajans, Japan&#039;s rayon and silk souvenir jackets that have catapulted their way to popularity in the streetwear world.\" \/>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/www.heddels.com\/2016\/10\/souvenir-jackets-a-silken-history\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_US\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Souvenir Jackets - A Silken History of Sukajans\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"We go deep on Sukajans, Japan&#039;s rayon and silk souvenir jackets that have catapulted their way to popularity in the streetwear world.\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:url\" content=\"https:\/\/www.heddels.com\/2016\/10\/souvenir-jackets-a-silken-history\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:site_name\" content=\"Heddels\" \/>\n<meta property=\"article:publisher\" content=\"https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/Heddels\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"article:author\" content=\"David\" \/>\n<meta property=\"article:published_time\" content=\"2016-10-12T06:01:42+00:00\" \/>\n<meta property=\"article:modified_time\" content=\"2018-05-09T18:57:30+00:00\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:image\" content=\"https:\/\/www.heddels.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/souvenir-jackets-a-silken-history-social-image.jpg\" \/>\n<meta name=\"author\" content=\"John Bobey\" \/>\n<meta name=\"twitter:card\" content=\"summary_large_image\" \/>\n<meta name=\"twitter:creator\" content=\"@heddels\" \/>\n<meta name=\"twitter:site\" content=\"@heddels\" \/>\n<meta name=\"twitter:label1\" content=\"Written by\" \/>\n\t<meta name=\"twitter:data1\" content=\"John Bobey\" \/>\n\t<meta name=\"twitter:label2\" content=\"Est. reading time\" \/>\n\t<meta name=\"twitter:data2\" content=\"5 minutes\" \/>\n<script type=\"application\/ld+json\" class=\"yoast-schema-graph\">{\"@context\":\"https:\/\/schema.org\",\"@graph\":[{\"@type\":\"WebPage\",\"@id\":\"https:\/\/www.heddels.com\/2016\/10\/souvenir-jackets-a-silken-history\/\",\"url\":\"https:\/\/www.heddels.com\/2016\/10\/souvenir-jackets-a-silken-history\/\",\"name\":\"Souvenir Jackets - A Silken History of Sukajans\",\"isPartOf\":{\"@id\":\"https:\/\/www.heddels.com\/#website\"},\"datePublished\":\"2016-10-12T06:01:42+00:00\",\"dateModified\":\"2018-05-09T18:57:30+00:00\",\"author\":{\"@id\":\"https:\/\/www.heddels.com\/#\/schema\/person\/4b80f93db740f86fec2272641a57391f\"},\"description\":\"We go deep on Sukajans, Japan's rayon and silk souvenir jackets that have catapulted their way to popularity in the streetwear world.\",\"breadcrumb\":{\"@id\":\"https:\/\/www.heddels.com\/2016\/10\/souvenir-jackets-a-silken-history\/#breadcrumb\"},\"inLanguage\":\"en-US\",\"potentialAction\":[{\"@type\":\"ReadAction\",\"target\":[\"https:\/\/www.heddels.com\/2016\/10\/souvenir-jackets-a-silken-history\/\"]}]},{\"@type\":\"BreadcrumbList\",\"@id\":\"https:\/\/www.heddels.com\/2016\/10\/souvenir-jackets-a-silken-history\/#breadcrumb\",\"itemListElement\":[{\"@type\":\"ListItem\",\"position\":1,\"name\":\"Home\",\"item\":\"https:\/\/www.heddels.com\/\"},{\"@type\":\"ListItem\",\"position\":2,\"name\":\"Souvenir Jackets &#8211; A Silken History of Sukajans\"}]},{\"@type\":\"WebSite\",\"@id\":\"https:\/\/www.heddels.com\/#website\",\"url\":\"https:\/\/www.heddels.com\/\",\"name\":\"Heddels\",\"description\":\"Heddels is the leading destination for those seeking to understand and find well-made, enduring denim, footwear, and other clothing that improves with wear.\",\"potentialAction\":[{\"@type\":\"SearchAction\",\"target\":{\"@type\":\"EntryPoint\",\"urlTemplate\":\"https:\/\/www.heddels.com\/?s={search_term_string}\"},\"query-input\":\"required name=search_term_string\"}],\"inLanguage\":\"en-US\"},{\"@type\":\"Person\",\"@id\":\"https:\/\/www.heddels.com\/#\/schema\/person\/4b80f93db740f86fec2272641a57391f\",\"name\":\"John Bobey\",\"image\":{\"@type\":\"ImageObject\",\"inLanguage\":\"en-US\",\"@id\":\"https:\/\/www.heddels.com\/#\/schema\/person\/image\/\",\"url\":\"https:\/\/secure.gravatar.com\/avatar\/00db97e0d834f324bfa3d6f50d515919?s=96&d=retro&r=g\",\"contentUrl\":\"https:\/\/secure.gravatar.com\/avatar\/00db97e0d834f324bfa3d6f50d515919?s=96&d=retro&r=g\",\"caption\":\"John Bobey\"},\"description\":\"John is a writer living in La Jolla, CA. 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