New York Market Week AW2016: Capsule
The march through the Autumn Winter 2016 preview continues with a look through the brands we saw at the Capsule show. Have a look at yesterday’s coverage of MAN, or read on below!
The Belgian bikers from Eat Dust came forth with what looked like their strongest collection yet, drawing heavily on southwestern 70s “drug rug” style clothing. This included woven print wools, knits, wide-wale corduroy, and a heavyweight wool moto jacket collab.
Corridor NYC has greatly expanded their line. Previously a highly curated selection of shirts, the brand has moved into outerwear with M-65 inspired field jackets and pants with a lightweight striped denim trouser. The shirts remain strong, though, with one standout being a vintage style big yarn flannel.
Knitwear brand from Cincinnati cum Japan Velva Sheen is getting weird this upcoming season, or rather irregular. The brand is embracing typical manufacturing defects like body twist and seam puckering as unique garment experiences.
I don’t know how they do it, but Yuki Matsuda and Yuketen consistently turn out what seems like a hundred new shoe styles…every…season. And they’re all pretty good! This season was no exception, with some notable highlights including up-cycled boots made from old denim and olive drab fatigue. They also had a sliced boot on hand to show the internal makeup–perhaps we’re starting a trend.
Slow and steady wins the race at Tanner Goods. The Portland-based leather goods maker eschews seasonal collections because when they release something, it stays released. The precious few new items on offer this season include a navy colorway on their Swiss army-inspired Salt and Pepper fabric bags, a leather zip wallet, and their Geoglyph print leathers will soon be offered in black.
If it’s soft Japanese workwear, it must be orSlow. The vintage inspired label was back with their usual offerings, but had some new outerwear that appears inspired by looser fitting European workwear shop coats.
Naked & Famous Denim
Canada’s mad denim scientists rarely disappoint on their full seasonal collection. Naked & Famous regularly releases upwards of 30 fabrics at a time, so there’s always something for everyone. Highlights from this season included the new heavyweight Elephant 6 aka Elephant 2: The Revenge, as it uses the same 22oz. fabric from years past and will be available as jeans and a jacket. They also had a Kevlar blended denim and a denim blended with “kapok”, a cellulose fiber that’s light and fluffy like down and makes for a very soft jean. And N&F has offered waxed jeans in the past, but none like what they’ll have on offer, a truly waxed, crinkly, and sticky pair of pants that could stand up to a Barbour jacket.
The Made in Japan line continues with its third iteration in a slubbier, lighter caste fabric, Naked & Famous’s Bahzad Trinos had about four months on his pair and the irregular yarns were already starting to show through.
New England Outerwear
New England Outerwear finally lives up to their name by producing outerwear–melton wool bombers with shearling collars. Don’t worry, the handsewn mocs aren’t going anywhere, they had both of their collaborative makeups with Engineered Garments on display as well as some experimental models made from deadstock upholstery fabric the team found near their factory in Maine.