I can think of few accessories as essential as a wallet. “Phone, wallet, keys” is an Adam Sandler-coined mantra that I play in my head when I’m heading out the door. Unless you’re locked into Apple Pay or some other digital payment service, chances are extremely high that you’re carrying a wallet, and if you’re not… how? Invisible as they may be (until they leave a pocket fade on your raw denim), wallets are as important as anything you’ll carry, and I don’t think many would argue against that.
Do the staff at Heddels only carry big George Costanza-esque Bi-Folds? Or are we all more into the minimal, only-the-essentials, cardholder carry? Is sustainability in materials something we prefer, or even consider at all? How many of us carry hand-cut and crafted wallets, in line with our desire to wear meticulously constructed clothing, or does form and function trump craftsmanship?
Why trust us? Well, we’ve all been in the game long enough to have field-tested a range of quality clothing, and the Heddels operation puts us onto some of the best clothing in the world week in, week out. Whilst our opinions and experiences shouldn’t be taken as definitive, this series will provide you insight into what has worked for us and why.
David – Custom Fish Leather Cardholder
When we made the first iteration of the Quint Hat, I experimented with a variety of different fish leathers. One of which, had a great feel, texture, and durability, but ultimately had to be nixed because the source of the leather was completely unsustainable. It did, however, leave me with a couple of square feet of it that I kept because I hate throwing good material away. A few years later, I was renting desk space in Winter Session‘s workshop and Cole, one of their leather-workers, saw the scrap and said he would make me a wallet out of it if he could make one for himself. About a week later, I had this surf n turf beauty on my desk.
I had only had a bifold before then, a present for my 10th birthday, and I hesitantly relocated all my cards and knick-knacks into it like a downsizing hermit crab. But what a joy it’s been to go minimal. With a half-dozen cards on each outer pocket and my cash sandwiched in between, the thing is a solid brick without any give or mid-purchase fumbling. We recreated the wallet in a much more ecological salmon leather a few years ago, but I plan on holding on to my sample until I turn at least 50.
James – Cork Cardholder Sample made by Daniel Rockburn
Seeing as a don’t buy leather (I know, I can see you yawning), it’s a tough one for me to invest in a long-lasting wallet. I’ve been fiending for RRL‘s Raw Denim Bifold for a few years, now, but always miss it when it’s on sale and I can’t justify the over $120 price tag. Porter Yoshida & Co. Wallets are also on the dear side, too. I just never find myself prioritizing a wallet purchase. I mainly work from home, so I don’t necessarily need a wallet for everyday use like others do.
That said, I do find this sample cardholder whipped up by our very own Daniel Rockburn in my pocket pretty much everywhere I go. One day in 2019, Daniel and I were chopping it up about Vegan leather after I had written an article on the matter. He mentioned that he had actually bought a sample quantity of some cork fabric, which he had intended to make some wallets out of. He knocked me up this cardholder sample and mailed it to me, being the kind and thoughtful soul that he is. 4 years later, it’s still holding up, which is a testament to Daniel’s skills as a leather (cork) worker.
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I’d say this comes out with me around 4-5 times a week, and it’s only really started to deteriorate in the last 2 years or so. Some of the cork which coats the cotton base fabric is coming away, leaving the base fabric to fray. But considering this is a relatively low-quality fabric, I’m surprised it’s held up. It holds just the amount of cards, loyalty cards, and the odd bill or two in there — perfect for someone who doesn’t use cash all too often. In the spirit of using things for as long as possible, I’ll use this until it falls apart. Even if I do grab a nice RRL or Porter wallet, I’ll keep that on ice until this has stored its last card. Shit, maybe I’ll just get Daniel to make me a denim cardholder from some hefty Samurai denim offcuts or something?
Daniel – Handmade Cardholder
I always have a wallet on me, and since I used to be a semi-serious leather crafter, I made my own wallet. I prefer a minimal carry, cardholders are great, and I’ve designed mine to my exact needs. For one thing, I tend to use high-quality leather, this one is made from a nice medium brown leather from Wickett & Craig in Pennsylvania. It’s good stuff, and I have made many a thing from it — it’s one of my favorite leathers. I made this particular cardholder 3-4 years ago, and it’s held up perfectly, as leather goods tend to do.
This design is pretty straightforward when you ignore all the perforations. The perforated design was something I’d thought about for a long time, I wanted to make a decorative wallet that was unlike anything I’d seen, and I wanted that decoration to be somewhat useful. The perforations allow for some breathability for the wallet and its contents, if you’ve ever pulled damp cash out of your wallet before, you might see the advantage here. It also cuts down on weight, which might be an insignificant benefit, but I like the idea. Also leather can mold over time, if you’re caring for your leather goods carefully, it shouldn’t be a problem – but it was something I thought about.
This wallet is designed to carry just the essential cards I need to carry, and a few bills folded in half, no more and no less. You can’t get this wallet anywhere else, because I made it, but I definitely encourage readers to try their hand at making leather goods – especially if you can get your hands on more sustainable materials, ones that are not made from animal hides, especially.
Nav – Comme De Garçons Zipped Bi-Fold Wallet
I’ve never really entertained the idea of a cardholder, mainly because I like my wallet to have some substance so I know it’s there to avoid those panic-induced pat-downs on an hourly basis. And, in some rare instances, cash is still king, so it’s good to know I can carry some.
With all that said, my current currency carrier is this zipped bi-fold wallet from CDG, I’ve had this for about 3 years now and it’s served me well. I like the simplicity and timelessness of the design and the aging potential if I keep it for long enough. The materials and construction feel solid, with the use of leather throughout and a YKK zip. The inside is simple and functional with a classic note/card slot/change pocket configuration and some subtle interior branding. These are available in a tonne of colors, some more loud and expressive but the brown spoke to me the most.
Available for $180 from Mr. Porter.
Karu – Paprcuts Berlin Wallet
To preface this, I know next to nothing about wallets. Ask me anything about the leather quality, thread type, or longevity of wallets, and it’ll go over my head. If you’re after that type of information, it’d be best to speak to my Heddels colleague, Daniel. That said, I still appreciate the form and function of a good wallet.
With that out of the way, I am currently using the “Sausage Dog” wallet from Paprcuts Berlin. I’ve only been using this wallet for a few weeks (it was a gift from a friend who used to work at Paprcuts), but it’s already been on a Seoul trip with me and I’m loving it.
This completely vegan wallet has some flashy features like RFID protection and it’s hand-sewn in Europe. But to be honest, I just like the sleek and colorful design.
I recently spent a few weeks in Japan, and for all the praise the country gets for its cutting-edge technology, it’s actually super old–fashioned in some areas. Forms of payment being one of them. Japan is notoriously cash-reliant, so I also used a coin pouch I picked up from the Front General Store in Brooklyn. I’ve had this for around half a year. It’s sleek, convenient, and adds a touch of color to my outfits. I’ve paired this with a mini-denim keychain from Big John, which I picked it up around a year and a half ago when I traveled south from Tokyo to visit the Kojima Big John flagship. If you look carefully around the edges, there’s a bit of fading on the keychain!
Wallet available for 36.99EUR (~$41 USD) from Paprcuts.
Zach – The Passport Wallet by Duvall Leatherwork
It seems appropriate that a passport wallet is a multinational collaboration. Crafted from goatskin tanned in the UK, this material balances strength and suppleness with sustainable industrial practices. Duvall Leatherwork meanwhile carries a timeless, Americana-style in their finished products. The Passport Wallet is illustrative of this concept: no-frills, rugged, and useful in every respect. Henry Ford purportedly said that his car customers could have, “…any color they want as long as it’s black.” Accessories can effectively follow this same philosophy–don’t overthink the color! I’ve seen a broad range of leather dyes and there are few tones that look good after extended use.
We gain a better appreciation of an art by having done it ourselves. I’ve dabbled in leatherworking. My clunky cowhide trifold “brick” seems primitive compared to this spatially efficient masterpiece for jet-setters. After all, lighter is better when traveling. Having everything you need in one convenient piece saves you the time and frustration of digging through pockets and (hopefully not) fanny packs.
You can check out Duvall Leatherworking’s website and pocket The Passport Wallet for $125.00.
Brad – Billykirk No.398 Bi-Fold Wallet
Most of my adult life — the decade that overlapped my twenties into my thirties — was spent living in Hoboken, NJ. Which goes a long way in explaining my pride in the craftsmanship exhibited by the leather goods company Billykirk. While the company was founded in Los Angeles by brothers Billy and Kirk in 1999, the company set up shop in Jersey City, NJ in 2005. For those unfamiliar with North Jersey geography (I’ll excuse this fault), Hoboken and Jersey City are neighboring towns that sit on the Hudson River directly opposite New York City’s West Village and TriBeCa.
Local pride aside, I cannot speak highly enough of Billykirk’s overall quality and design. I bought my wallet – the No. 398 Bi-Fold Wallet – in 2016 and it has only gotten better with age. The friction of my body movement, the pressure of being sat on for so long, and the natural oils present in top-grade leather have conspired to create a silky smooth texture to the outside of the wallet. Despite the fact that there are many little scrapes and scratches contributing to the patina. Another minor but telling indication of quality is the evenly distributed creasing along the fold. A lesser leather would have larger, more visible cracks along weak spots.
This particular wallet, along with many of the brand’s fine wares, is made in Pennsylvania now. I must point out that I purchased a matching key chain from Billykirk around 2018 and it has held just as well. It is made of bridle leather and solid brass fixtures.
Available for $175 from Billykirk.
Ben – Vintage Wallet
Beyond how they make our jeans fade all purty, wallets are great for cash, which is that green paper stuff that people used to use before Venmo, debit and credit cards, and other small thin rectangular items.
Like most things I gravitate towards, my wallet is sorta old. Judging by the calendar in it — yes it has a full calendar year in there — it’s at least as old as 1936, though I suspect it’s a little older. It also has a mechanical pencil and notepad. See the thing is, wallets used to be more than just a receptacle. It was your organizer, planner, and your journal at times. Your notes app. The old-school iPhone. Well, maybe that’s a stretch.
Made from a gorgeous pebbled leather in Rockport Mass, it features a main slot and an inner slot, originally meant purely for an ID. I use it every day and it works fine. I have other old wallets too, but this has been my current one for the last 2 years or so. Great party trick as well but much cooler when someone asks first.
