For those who’ve pursued the Japanese repro-brand iceberg, Jelado is a brand that can’t be ignored. Reproducing Americana garments from the early-to-mid 20th century, Jelado’s collections have something for anybody into high-quality, vintage-inspired garb.
Whether it’s examining 50s Levi’s denim to a molecular level or designing your next grail, when it comes to Jelado — Yohei Goto is your guy. We wanted to learn more about Jelado, so we caught up with Goto San to talk about his brand, sub-labels, repro denim, and more.
James: For those who aren’t familiar with you, can you introduce yourself?
Yohei Goto: I’m a representative of Jelado, Yohei Goto. I established this brand in June 2005 and have managed Jelado for 18 years.
J: How did you find yourself in the world of heritage clothing and Americana?
YG: I became interested in fashion when I was in high school. At that time, the fashion trend was American casual and vintage clothing, which led me to the world of Americana.
J: When did you establish Jelado and why?
YG: I established the Jelado on June 3, 2005. Before I started the brand, I had a vintage shop. However, I wanted to produce my own vintage-style products, so I started Jelado!
J: Jelado makes garments inspired by many different decades and style movements in the US. What are some of your specific inspirations in the world of Americana?
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YG: I do not stick to a single vintage period or style. This is because I used to run my vintage shop, and I thought it would be cool to bring back vintage items I bought from the US to the store, curating items from all the different vintage periods and putting them together in our store.
Therefore, I reproduce vintage items that I like from all ages at the same time, and I would like to mix and match them with my own style, and offer them in my store. Basically, my collection consists of items from the 1930s to the 70s, but sometimes I reproduce older items or vintage items that were made outside of the US.
Jelado Age of Longing 301XX Raw Denim Jeans, available for $285 from Clutch Cafe.
J: Talk to us about “Age of Longing” – is this a sub-label of Jelado? A Slogan?
YG: When it comes to making denim, the 501xx is a classic item that cannot be avoided. The first Jelado 301xx I made was based on the 501xx made around 1951-1952. First, the term “Age of Longing” was chosen to express my longing for the 501xx, which I learned were the best jeans when I first became interested in fashion. Secondly, I also wanted to express the image of glamorous America in the 5os. I ended up using the term “Age of Longing” on our jeans by combining these two concepts.
image via Clutch Cafe
J: I’m also interested in your ‘Starry Gate’ label. Is this an original American label you have revived or an original Jelado concept?
YG: In the 50s, there was a vintage American clothing brand called Golden Gate. Inspired by the design and name, we created a 50s line with the image of a star-filled bridge.
Image via Clutch Cafe
J: When it comes to raw selvedge denim, your fabric production seems pretty thorough and meticulous. How did you learn to work with mills to develop fabrics to specific standards and qualities?
YG: The manufacturing of this Jelado deni, started when I got acquainted with one fabric maker who had a clear answer to the question of how to reproduce Levi’s XX denim. He said that unless you cut and analyze deadstock XX that has remained until the present day and approach it from the thread, you will not be able to create a true reproduction.
As he said, we were able to find out what 501xx was like at that time by cutting dead stock and analyzing it at a national testing institute, examining the thickness of the yarn, the number of beats, the quality of the cotton from which the yarn was made, and even the fiber length.
J: What is the difference between your ’55 Denim’ and ‘Last Resort Denim’ Both seem to appear on your 1950s 501xx reproductions.
YG: The white tag on both items is a 50s reproduction. However, the design and sewing specifications have changed a little over the past 3-4 years, and we think it’s okay for young people to wear jeans differently, so we have changed the silhouette as well as the design and sewing specifications.
J: You made a ‘Pharaoh Jacket’ with Browns Beach Cloth last year. I’ve always been interested in the Pharaoh silhouette. Do you know much about the history of this silhouette and who made them in the old days?
I don’t know much about the history of the Pharaoh jacket. However, people who raced on the streets at that time used to put their team’s embroidery or patches on this kind of wool coat, which was also known as a car coat. I thought this culture was cool, and the Pharaoh jacket has been loved for more than 30 years as a standard item of winter clothing for people who liked the 50s style. I have always loved Pharaoh jackets, so I have been making them since the early days of Jelado.
Jelado x Brown’s Beach SG43439 Pharoah Coat, on sale at Clutch Cafe for $425.
J: What’s next for Jelado? The brand seems pretty popular in the U.K., lines sell out at Clutch Cafe (I just missed out on your Dean Jacket!), do you have plans to expand the brand or just keep making clothes to the best of your abilities?
We do not aim to grow our business too much. The most important thing is to be able to enjoy my work while always appreciating what I love and being in a world that I love. It is not my greatest pleasure to grow my business, so I believe that my mission is to continue to encounter great garments that I want to pursue, and to create new products while always thinking about how I want to express myself now in the face of those items.
I still want to continue to reproduce and research 501xx, and I believe that there will always be another new discovery or realization. I would be more than happy if even one more fan of Jelado could be created by continuing to search and seek such discoveries.
J: Thanks for chatting with me, Goto San. I hope the rest of 2023 treats you well.
YG: Thank you very much. I don’t know if I can convey this well, but I will continue to make more efforts to create clothes that everyone will enjoy. Thank you!
Image via Shibuya Culture Scramble
