Few accessories will illicit reactions as strong as a simple pair of gloves. From tossing one as a challenge to duel to the death with swords, to elegant ballroom dancing, their history tells a story that is both sinister and romantic, opulent to everyday utility.

The world watched in disbelief as former athlete O.J. Simpson discovered something that leather glove enthusiasts are well aware of; the correct fit is important. His murder trial was the center ring in a media circus that spilled into the streets of Los Angeles (and coincidentally it also helped put the Kardashian family in the limelight). With so many ups and downs, it’s difficult to say where the legal battle peaked but a humble accessory played an important tactical role.

A single black leather glove was found at the scene of the gruesome double homicide while a second matching glove was found at Simpson’s residence. When the prosecution insisted that the ex-football player try on the gloves for the court, he struggled to pull them on with mixed looks of exasperation and relief. The defense’s closing remarks for trial famously quipped, “If it doesn’t fit, you must acquit.” Simpson later walked free.

Despite the imagery of black leather gloves and menacing figures in the night, there is much more to the story of this five-finger fit. Cowboys, pilots, and early racecar drivers all had immense input and pride in their own custom creations. When needing to preserve your fingers from the searing heat of an engine, the sting of rope burn, or the biting winter cold, don’t opt for hiding your hands in your pockets—get a grip with proper gloves.

Origins

Ancient Egypt, Greece, and Rome all referred to gloves in their historical records. Greek historians also documented the use of gloves in Persia. Based on the evidence, including what was written by Homer, Herodotus, and Pliny the Younger, these fashion pieces were objects of nobility. With royalty and nobility, gloves would also become a symbol of power and fighting prowess (almost like modern boxing gloves). Herodotus even recounted that the king of Sparta, a military powerhouse of ancient Greece, was bribed with a gauntlet filled with silver.

By the way, we need to make an important distinction between “gloves” and “gauntlets;” gauntlets extend past the hands to help protect the wrists and perhaps the lower arms. Crafted from leather with metal scales on top, they became iconic in Medieval times as a component of knightly armor. Advances in metallurgy allowed iron plating to be utilized for their construction in the 14th century. Around the same era, the samurai donned armored gauntlets called kote in Japan. Ninja warriors followed suit. The association between combat and gauntlets remains so close, that “throwing down the gauntlet” is still synonymous with confrontation.

Gauntlets and gloves made from chainmail—which is lighter and allows for unmatched dexterity—were also utilized. This material is so effective at preventing cuts that wood carvers and professional butchers use chainmail gloves today!

Mittens

In the Far East, some ancient Chinese gloves took on a form closer to that of mittens. Mittens are considered a type of glove with just two sections; one large one for the fingers and one for the thumb. Like their five-finger counterparts, they can be traced back to ancient Egypt but local examples can be found across the world. One of the oldest extant pairs of mittens—that can be clearly identified—comes from Latvia and are about 1,000 years old. Today, mittens are part of Latvia’s national costume.

High Fashion and Formalwear

Audrey Hepburn. Few looks are more iconic than her elegant black dress matched by dark satin opera gloves—her left hand balancing a cigarette holder as she looks curiously into the camera. It’s an expression of grandeur that would make you stop mid-sentence. Long gloves, with their long lineage of royalty, are seen as the epitome of class even 60 years after she set the standard for “chic.” Despite this, formal gloves became far less common post-1960s.

If you search online as to why the upper classes started wearing gloves, there are a lot of mixed answers on customs and etiquette. Nevertheless, by 1800, it was an ingrained part of Western culture. Gloves as formalwear hit its stride during the 19th century—specifically the Victorian Era. Depending on the time of year and occasion, the women’s collection encompassed classic opera gloves as well as fingerless and mitten styles. Men reciprocated with white evening gloves. The link between this particular style and gentility became so strong, that the phrase “white glove service” came to mean “premium assistance that’s delivered with exquisite detail and care.” If you’re a fan of old cartoons and movies, you may notice the trope of stuffy butlers with white gloves and black tailcoats. This stems from an era of gilded opulence near the end of the 19th century.

Accessories of the Trade

Workwear is one enduring sector of glove ownership. Knit gloves have existed for centuries in Europe—one of the most prominent historical examples is the Sture glove which belonged to a 16th century Swedish sea captain who was killed in battle. Speaking of seafaring, European knitting styles spread to the New World as frontiers opened. Workmen also appreciated leather gloves which were prized for their durability and bulldog-tight grip. Leather also staves off burns and abrasions. In a world run by industry, welders, steelworkers, and others see gloves as extensions of their skilled hands.

“Gloversville Gloves America”

With industrialization came new demand and manufacturing methods. The days of cottage industries were (mostly) over in the United States. The sleepy village of  Gloversville, New York, along with its neighbor Johnstown, jointly became the “glove capitol of the world” after the railroad connected to it in 1870. With scores of factories and leather tanneries, the slogan “Gloversville Gloves America” was adopted as the town supplied about two-thirds of the American market. Today, a handful—pun intended—of glove makers still exist in the area.

Of Man, Horse, and Machine

As the hum of machinery echoed through Gloversville and America’s steel mills lit up the night sky, cowboys were working the wide open ranges of the American West. Roping cattle and branding is hard on the body and the hands. Leather gauntlet gloves were a welcome addition to their kit. In typical cowboy style, personal flair was added to the gloves over time with bold, embossed patterns, silver studs, and beads. Ornate leather gauntlets became as “Wild West” as ten-gallon hats and pointed boots.

Mechanized transportation had its own requirements when it came to workwear. Railroad locomotive crews—especially the “firemen” who fed fuel into the raging firebox to make steam—found that gloves could literally save their skin. We touched on gloves in the Suave Motorcyclists series and how the need for speed transformed our wardrobe in the name of performance. Early automobiles exposed their operators and passengers to the winter elements because open cabins were standard. When the wind wasn’t bracing, engines and exhausts were searing to the touch. Modern vehicles still feature “glove boxes” as a carry-over from an earlier era with tortured fingers.

If traveling overland was hard on the hands, flying was certainly not a cakewalk. A combination of cold temperatures and blasting wind meant that pilots had to routinely bundle up from head to toe. Even after closed cockpits became commonplace, aviation pioneers pushed the limits of manned flight ever higher without pressurized aircraft. During World War II, the operational altitudes of many bombers placed their crews in conditions well below freezing. Gloves and “gunner’s mittens” weren’t just accessories—they were a lifeline.

Modern Makers

The need to protect and shield your hands is the same for many sporting enthusiasts, from skateboarders to hunters. It can be argued that athletes and sportsmen of all varieties are the biggest proponents of gloves today outside of work. If you want to tackle outdoor challenges or add a little attitude to your regular outfit, gloves can give you a hand.

Atlantic Rancher

Atlantic Rancher produces some real-deal work gauntlets that fishermen know and love. Historically, this classic style could be found in almost every setting between western ranches and Alaskan fishing boats. If you’re gathering firewood while camping, you’ll also find these useful (speaking from experience). Timeless Deerskin Gloves are available from Atlantic Rancher for $118.00.

Cockpit USA

Gunner’s Mittens are a hallmark of adventurous aviation. The original examples from World War II were designed for machine gunners aboard high-altitude bomber aircraft. Sheepskin allows for incredible suppleness while the shearling lining keeps your digits incredibly toasty. If you love vintage flying jackets, this will be the perfect addition to your winter wardrobe. Grab the B-3 Gunner’s Mittens on Cockpit USA for $45.00.

Upstate Stock

We know and love Upstate Stock for its ethically and American-made output, and these Ragg Wool x Deerskin Gloves are just one pair of its wide array of USA-made gloves.

Shop the full range at Upstate Stock with prices starting at just $29.