Washed denim used to be such a taboo in the raw denim scene and to some purists, it still is. Look, I understand why a niche predicated on the ‘rawness’ of denim would struggle to accept that there is a space within that same niche for washed denim, but I understand even more that some folks simply don’t have the time to fade a raw denim garment in the way they want. Maybe they want selvedge denim without the raw, deep indigo look. In any case, they still want quality.
That’s where Sugar Cane comes in. Understanding that there is a demand for high-quality, selvedge denim silhouettes in authentic washes that look the real deal, Sugar Cane is one of the few Japanese denim labels that looks to have gotten washed denim right.
All of the Sugar Cane’s washed selvedge goods look fantastic in images but we wanted to see for ourselves. Redcast Heritage was kind enough to send out one of the brand’s latest washed denim pieces, the 1953 Type II Denim Jacket ‘Aged Model’. In this review, we’ll be taking a closer look at Sugar Cane’s washed selvedge denim, as well as the silhouette of this particular jacket itself.
By The Numbers
- Name: Sugar Cane 1953 Type II Denim Jacket Aged Model
- Materials: 14.25 oz. unsanforized Double Ring Spun Japanese selvedge denim – stonewashed.
- Made in: Japan
- Fit: Boxy, true to size
- Details:
- Blend of American/Zimbabwean cotton
- Reproduction of Levi’s 1953 Type II denim jacket
- Custom iron buttons
- Pink selvedge ID
- Available for $330 from Redcast Heritage.
The Fabric
It Was Raw
Sugar Cane has produced a handful of washed selvedge denim fabrics over the years, but the fabric in question here is the 14.25 oz. unsanforized double ring-spun Japanese selvedge denim ‘Light Blue’, woven from a blend of Zimbabwean and American cottons.
You heard me right — it was unsanforized. That means that this denim started life as a raw and unsanforized selvedge denim fabric before being sewn into the Type II silhouette and washed/processed. As usual, Sugar Cane hasn’t cut any corners, here.
Look & Feel
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I’m going to be straight here and say that this denim looks incredible. I can’t dance around the matter — Sugar Cane has managed to achieve a scarily realistic fade and tone. This jacket looks like something you’d see in a vintage denim issue of Clutch or Lightning. The kind of piece that would cost you hundreds or potentially over $1000 to buy if you were lucky enough to even get the opportunity.
This isn’t mass-washed mall store stonewash denim – far from it. This is curated fading designed to look and feel authentic, achieved by washing and processing a raw version of the garment. This leads to all of those little details that are so great about true vintage jeans. The puckering on areas like the cuffs, collar, and seams; the little pockets of darker indigo glimmering through the otherwise photo-flash bright denim; the stone-like texture — all of these attributes come together to form a jacket that looks like you or a family member wore for 20+ years. It’s pretty impressive.
I know stonewashed fabrics aren’t particularly special, but to find a selvedge denim fabric stonewashed with this level of attention to the finished garment is pretty rare.
This edition of Sugar Cane’s washed selvedge denim has a soft and dry feel, understandably akin to freshly washed denim. You know, that feel that your oldest pair of raws — which are faded and broken in — have after they’ve been laundered or soaked. It’s comfy to wear, has no uncomfortable skin feel, and feels like a lighter-weight denim when worn.
Key Facts:
- 14.25 oz. unsanforized selvedge denim, sewn into garment form in its raw state before washing and processing
- Incredibly realistic faded appearance with handsome puckering and overall patina
- Uneven & rough texture
- Has a dry hand feel but feels comfy on skin
- Feels lighter than 14.25 oz. denim when worn
The Jacket
Fit
I was torn between going true to size or sizing up to XL (44). My experience with denim blousons is that they often fit me well with a t-shirt, but are too small in either the chest or shoulders to layer over a sweatshirt. I measured up my best-fitting denim jacket and found that the L (42) was the closest, so I went with that and it fits perfectly. In the fit images, I am wearing the Sugar Cane 1953 Type II over a t-shirt and a Buzz Rickson’s sweatshirt. It looks perfect over a T-shirt, too.
Part of my decision to go true to size was that there’s no shrinkage to worry about — one of the few upsides of washed denim. If you’re unsure of your size, I would follow my process of measuring a similar garment if you have one. If you don’t have a denim blouson/trucker, take measures of the chest, and shoulder widths on various jackets and make an informed decision. I used Redcast’s measuring guide to ensure I was getting the right measures for their size chart.
Construction & Details
By this point, we know that Sugar Cane comes correct with its quality of construction and detailing. You’ve got chain stitching, single needle stitching, rivet reinforcements on the lower sleeve, period-correct lemon yellow stitching, and iron hardware. It’s that hardware that provides one of the killer details, too. The stonewash process has caused the custom Sugar Cane iron buttons to oxidize and rust, which matches the chalky, washed-out finish of the denim.
If longevity is at the top of your priorities, there is no denying that the stonewash process has weakened the denim and stitching in places. I’ve taken some images of where the stitching has loosened and the denim has crocked. While this is a concern for longevity, it’s all part of the process of having a jacket that looks this faded and patinated. If you were to wear a raw denim jacket into this state, it would likely have all sorts of crocking, fraying, and stitching stress/decay. There isn’t really a way around it. I have no concerns that this Sugar Cane jacket will remain part of my rotation for many years to come, and it certainly won’t be falling apart anytime soon.
Key Facts:
- Fits true to size for a traditional Type II fit – short and boxy.
- No shrinkage to worry about due to being a pre-washed garment
- Oxidized iron buttons match the fading and crocking achieved by the stonewash
- Stonewash has affected the integrity of small areas of the stitching and worn down the denim in places
Conclusion
If you want a washed, pre-faded denim jacket, pieces like this Sugar Cane 1953 Type II Denim Jacket Aged Model are about as good as it gets. You’re getting selvedge denim, a time-honored silhouette, and a curated wash informed by an unwavering commitment to iconic and historical denim garb. The wash itself does slightly affect the robustness and integrity of the fabric and stitching, but no more (probably less so) than an authentically worn jacket that would take over 2-3 years, hundreds of wears, and dozens of washes to reach this aesthetic. It looks like Sugar Cane has hit the sweet spot again.
Available for $330 from Redcast Heritage.
