As we transition from the waning sun-kissed days of summer to the crisp chill of fall and winter, it’s about to start getting real with the fits. In other words, it’s time to really start dressing. But while we usually envision swapping out our breezy camp collars, 5-inch inseams, and dad sandals for heavy trousers, warm jumpers, and sturdy boots, one aspect of Q4 fashion that often goes overlooked is the humble pajama. So grab a piping hot cup of chamomile, wrap yourself in your favorite blanket, and nestle up in a cocoon of comfort as we take you down a tour of winter couture’s unheralded MVP.

What Are Pajamas?

First things first, let’s get down to brass tacks. Are they called “Pajamas” or “Pyjamas”? Well, as a no-good American imperialist who believes we’re superior when it comes to things like sports, food, and Fahrenheit for describing the weather (75 degrees for a perfectly warm day just makes way more sense than 24, I’m sorry), I’m team “Pajamas“. Now, our pals across the Atlantic might lean into the “Pyjama” spelling, but hey, for the sake of this piece, we’re gonna roll with the American preference.

Pajamas, PJs, jammies, refer to a set of clothing specifically designed for slumber (or, let’s be honest, lounging around the crib). At its most classic, you’re looking at a shirt-and-trousers combo — airy, easy, and supremely snuggly. Now, when you dive into the wild world of sleepwear, you’ve got more options than your Netflix queue on a Friday night. They come in any manner of fabrics. Airy and breathable linen for those toasty evenings. Warm brushed flannel cotton to remain cozy and mitigate the chill. Ultra luxe and buttery silk to flex your dollar bills. And a myriad of models. There’s the classic full-length, the ever-comfortable nightshirt, and, for those of you who are a bit cheeky, there’s the infamous drop-seat (or trap door) pajama. A real game-changer, these bad boys offer a convenient flap in the back to…let’s say, address nature’s call without sacrificing an ounce of warmth.

A Brief History

As with so many articles of steeze we hold dear, the concept of PJs has a rich sartorial history that traces back centuries and spans various continents. To truly appreciate this night-time necessity, let’s rewind the clock. The term “pajama” traces its etymology to the Persian word “payjama“, meaning “leg garment”. The concept, however, hails from the Indian subcontinent.

Historically, Indian people donned lightweight pants not just as sleepwear, but as everyday attire complemented by kurtas. With a simple, functional design, these lightweight trousers which cinched at the waist —often paired with a drawstring —catered to the needs of a warm climate for a society on the move, whether it was for daily labor or spiritual mediation.

By the 18th century came the British colonists. And in their perpetual quest to “borrow” (ie. steal) local practices, they adopted the attire for nighttime (and sometimes daytime) lounging. They brought the fashion back to Europe, where it found a place as a bedtime staple. Trousers and jackets made of silk or flannel became the rage among European men.

Interestingly, the fairer sex didn’t adopt this trend till the 20th century. Before this, western women traditionally wore nightgowns. It was Coco Chanel who revolutionized women’s sleepwear, crafting chic pajamas in the 1920s which were often worn publicly on the French Riviera.

The turn of the century heralded a new wave of blending comfort with style. As our dress codes relaxed, so did our need for comfort. And before long, it was common to find folks wearing pajamas outside and on the go to work or school. Moreover, the global pandemic of 2020 furthered anchored the role of pajamas as a staple wardrobe piece, as people found themselves quarantined or working from home. Brands started producing cheeky and innovative work-from-home pajama lines that paired sophisticated tops visible for Zoom calls with comfy bottoms. The rise of the Easy Pant ensued and remains in the stratosphere at the time of writing.

Pajamas in Pop Culture

From the holidays in the Hogwarts castle to Hugh Hefner and his signature silk robes and PJs to the slumber party trope in teen movies, pop culture has played no small role in establishing the pajamas’ iconic status. Here we’ll talk through some of my favorite and most memorable ones.

Hitchcock’s “Rear Window” isn’t just a masterclass in suspense, its a sleepwear showcase courtesy of James Stewart. Rocking several pairs of cotton two-piece PJs, Stewart serves old Hollywood charisma making his loungewear every bit as stylish a tux, making a convalescene look cooler than any runway. While he’s caught up peeping into his neighbors’ lives, I’m here getting life from his effortlessly chic nightwear.

Alright, I know he’s a literal cartoon character and all but hear me out: Scrooge McDuck had some of the best pajama drip the animated world has ever seen. While the man was known for being miserly with the moolah, he was anything but stingy with the style. The royal purple nightgown and cap combo was major look. Toss in the handheld candle and we’re talking all-timer status.

When it comes to undeniable swagger in sleepwear, The Dude reigns supreme. He brought PJs to the bowling alley and made it look legendary. Rocking natty patterned pants with a cozy cardigan, he blended chill Cali cool with unmatched confidence. A certified pioneer of the pajama game. Some might disagree but that’s just, like, my opinion, man.

Stepping outside the realms of the big (and small) screen, there are a few pajama and PJ-inspired looks that I really dig. Starting with this white piped shirt on Ryan Gosling. Pairing it with classic trousers and wingtip derbies he once again proves that he can make anything look effortlessly cool.

These silky pajamas woven with a big ostentation floral pattern is Marni at their best. Off kilter, well-tailored, and oh-so smooth.

Pharrell Williams in green leather Salvatore Ferragamo pajamas. What else is there to say?

Nightwear Titans

Who’s ensuring our nights are as stylish as our days? Well, take your pick, really. You can get quality pajamas from many reputable brands and shirtmakers. Here are some that are leading the way in blending comfort with class.

Polo Ralph Lauren

Ralph Lauren has solidified itself as a go-to for both classic and contemporary styles with its timeless designs. Mr Lauren is a sartorial legend, so best believe his Polo label has some quality PJs on deck. Their offerings range from crisp striped sets that scream sophistication to cozy pieces you’d want to wear all Sunday long.

Sunspel

Sunspel is another name that’s synonymous with quality and heritage design. Hailing from England, Sunspel’s history is underpinned by undergarments, so it’s to be expected that they put out some solid PJs. Their Sea Island cotton pajama sets are stylish and classy, offering a blend of luxury and relaxed flair.

Available from $110 at SSENSE.

J. Crew

J. Crew —despite its financial turmoil —has seen something of a renaissance in recent times. And no matter what, you can almost never go wrong with their staples. Whether cozy flannel or breezy cotton poplin, you can bet their PJs will fit the bill.

Available for $89.50 from J.Crew

Brooks Brothers

There’s also the evergreen Brooks Brothers. Their pajama sets, especially the cotton ones with vintage-inspired prints, never really go out of fashion. The durability and classic aesthetic they bring to the table are unmatched.

Available from Brooks Brothers for ~$85.

Sid Mashburn

These pajamas from Sid Mashburn are made from the same soft, fine, Italian end-on-end 2ply that they use for their excellent shirting. The construction on these is the same too. With such excellent details, one could easily argue that they’re worthy of the investment.

Available from Sid Mashburn for $250.

Turnbull & Asser

Speaking of investment, legendary British shirtmaker Turnbull & Asser are bringing some next-level opulence with these pyjamas (when they’re from England and cost nearly a grand I’ll spell ’em however you want).

Crafted from a lavish cream silk, they make you look like royalty whether you’re snoozing in bed or living the all-day luxe lounge life. These sport mother-of-pearl buttons and slick burgundy piping that just screams premium. As a bonus, they come with a hand-sewn cotton carrier that makes traveling with this plush set a breeze.

Available from Turnbull & Asser for $885.

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What pajamas are you rocking? Start a discussion in the Heddels+ discord!