Knit beanies, also known as the finest and coziest of all insulating head coverings. Wool watch caps are practically everywhere in our little niche of fashion, but is that particular style what our staff of writers prefers to pull over their heads when temps drop? Or do we prefer knits that are a tad fancier, more modern, made from organic cotton, and so on? Read on to find out.
Why trust us? Well, we’ve all been in the game long enough to have field-tested a range of quality clothing, and the Heddels operation puts us onto some of the best clothing in the world week in, week out. Whilst our opinions and experiences shouldn’t be taken as definitive, this series will provide you insight into what has worked for us and why.
David – Knickerbocker Watch Cap
I got my Knickerbocker watch cap as the result of another cap, the Quint Cap. As we were finishing up the last details of the first release over seven years ago, Andrew at Knickerbocker tossed me a sample of the new version of their old standby. I’ve worn it pretty regularly ever since.
Watch caps are an absolute staple, and I especially get on with cotton ones like this one. Warm but not too warm. Not too heavy. Stuffs in a pocket. And can be used as an eye mask to sleep in a pinch. I think the size and the height is perfect for my head, I mostly have had long hair the last few years so my ears are fine in the cold. My only anxiety on this cap is that it has a very tasteful contrast label on the brim, but you look like a complete goober if it lines up in the middle of your forehead. It’s the inverse of the Carhartt beanie.
And even though I didn’t buy this one, I will buy another. 50 bucks does not break the bank for nearly a decade of service.
James – Highland 2000 Cotton Rib Bobcap
Long-time readers of Heddels will know I avoid animal products where possible, so when I found these Cotton Bobcaps from Highland 2000, best believe I was over the moon.
Honestly, I can’t praise these things enough. Made in the U.K., great texture, warm but not too warm, oodles of cuffing variations, and a charming rib knit which you don’t always see on Watch-style caps. Even better? They’re on sale at Marrkt for just £15 (~$18USD). If you don’t get on with wool, are vegan, or just want to try a new Watch Cap out, I would definitely recommend these bad-bobs.
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Available from Marrkt for £15 (~$18USD).
Daniel – Merz B. Schwanen Merino Wool Cap
I’ve been wearing this Merz B. Schwanen Merino Wool Cap for a few years now, and it’s been a noticeably superior wear to any beanie I’ve won in the past, being real. When you try any Merz basic, you end up noticing the difference in quality between that, and everything else you wore before. This cap is extremely soft and breathable, but warming when it needs to be. It never smells bad, musty, etc. It doesn’t pill. It’s washable and I’ve even put it in the dryer and it’s held up extremely well, with zero noticeable shrinkage. It’s a product I will buy again and again in every colorway possible.
Available for $55 from Franklin & Poe.
Karu – Racall Roll Knit Cap
Between the very start of Autumn, when it’s barely cool enough to wear sweaters, until the last week of Spring, there are three items of clothing I wear every single day. Socks. Underwear. And a Watch Cap. (Just to be clear, I also wear underwear during summer). And there’s one specific beanie that I swear by. The Racal Roll Knit Cap.
I’ve tried countless Watch Cas from cheap fast fashion brands to the pricey upscale labels. But there’s always some small detail about each beanie that doesn’t work. Maybe it loses its stretch over a few months. Maybe it slides off the head too easily. Maybe the material is just cheap and stuffy to wear.
But the Racal Roll Knit Cap, my friend, is what every Watch Cap/ Fisherman’s Beanie strives to be. Wear after wear, it retains its shape. Long hair or buzz cut, it’ll gently hug your scalp. Not so tight to give you a migraine, but not loose it’ll fall enough after a breeze.
I picked up my Racal Roll Knit Cap at an outlet store around half a year ago. Funnily enough, it was one of the only items not on sale at the store. Funny how that works.
Available for 4,620 yen (~$32USD) from Ray’s Store JP.
Ben – Vintage US Navy Watch Cap
With colder temperatures on the horizon as well as bedhead from not taking morning showers, it’s the perfect time to start reaching for a knit cap before stepping out the door. My go-to is this US Navy Watch Cap. They are super strong, extremely toasty warm, and are as timeless as it gets. I’ve found a few of these over the years but this one fits the best. I found it at a yard sale in a duffle bag full of a veteran’s Navy gear. It dates from the 50s if I remember correctly.
I just do a single fold normally, but you can also do a more dramatic cuff if you’re into that look. You know the one.
For a near-perfect reproduction, look to Buzz Rickson’s.
Zach – SM Wholesale US Navy Watch Cap
Watch caps carry a mystique that fits somewhere between “old-school sailor” and “lovable madman.” Rooted in European knitting traditions, these simple pieces of headwear are as useful as they are ubiquitous. I tried wearing beanies long ago, but it just didn’t work out. The cheap one that I owned looked more like a shriveled condom than an actual cap. Like with most things in life, I figured it was worth doing twice before I called it quits. This is when I discovered SM Wholesale’s World War II classic: the US Navy Watch Cap.
Good watch caps begin with good wool yarn. For me, the thicker the yarn the better. SM Wholesale’s version is not only faithful to the original but the materials used are top-notch. In my experience, great yarn also means that the fit will follow suit–no matter how I adjust the cap or roll the cuff, I never feel it slipping away.
Comfortable and warm, the US Navy Watch Cap can be found on SM Wholesale’s website for an incredible $29.00. It’s sold out at the time of writing, but they’ll be back.
Nav – Le Bonnet Beanie
I very much look forward to beanie season and that is largely down to the fact that I have one specific beanie that is my absolute go-to, never let me down, and continues to serve me well almost 7 years in.
It comes from a brand called Le Bonnet which I stumbled across not long after I moved to Amsterdam. They started out just making beanies which is what first drew me to the brand and have since progressed to include other accessories based around the same fabrics like scarves, gloves, and socks. The one I have started life as a true Navy but over time has faded slightly due to the constant use but this definitely adds to its character. It’s 75% lambswool and 25% caregora which makes for an extremely soft and comfortable experience, sometimes it doesn’t even feel like I have it on.
Once I found my sweet spot with the roll, it has maintained its shape ever since and I couldn’t imagine any fall winter without it.
Available from Le Bonnet for $100.
