When it comes to the world of footwear, certain countries and cities have left an indelible mark on the industry. Take leafy Northampton, for example. To some, it’s nothing but a quiet suburban town in England’s East Midlands. To others, however, it’s the dress shoemaking capital of the world, home to iconic names like John Lobb, Edward Green, Tricker’s, and Church’s. Then there’s the rugged Pacific Northwest of America, where artisanal craftsmanship reaches its pinnacle in the form of high-end work boots, exemplified by brands such as Nick’s, White’s, and Wesco. Take a short flight inland towards the North West and you’ll eventually end up in Minnesota, the birthplace of one of the most iconic and accessible heritage-wear bootmakers, Red Wing. 

Yet, tucked away from the limelight, another contender has quietly emerged from the heart of Mexico, challenging the traditional titans of the industry – UNMARKED. With a commitment to quality and a unique blend of craftsmanship, UNMARKED is poised to redefine our expectations of what a pair of boots can be. And, thanks to the good folks over at Unmarked, we’ve managed to get our mitts on a pair of its Archie boots.

Today, I’ll be reviewing the Unmarked Archie Boot, seen here in an unusual and heavy textured Bison leather. Let’s dive in. 

About Unmarked

Mexico doesn’t immediately spring to mind when I think about rugged bootmaking. However, that doesn’t mean the home of Mariachi music, ancient civilizations, and one of the most widely enjoyed cuisines in the world, doesn’t have a decorated history in the craft.

The history of Mexican shoemaking is marked by a blend of indigenous craftsmanship and European influences, creating a diverse range of footwear styles that are still worn today. Huaraches, espadrilles, and cowboy boots –  “botas vaqueras” – represent just a few examples of the remarkable shoes that have been developed in Mexico. These shoe styles reflect the country’s cultural diversity, history, and commitment to traditional craftsmanship that has endured for generations. Today, Mexican footwear continues to be celebrated for its unique blend of heritage and contemporary style, influencing fashion trends both within and beyond Mexico’s borders.

With such a storied history in shoemaking, Mexico’s foray into the heritage bootmaking industry through UNMARKED felt more like an inevitable progression, rather than a question of ‘how‘.

UNMARKED was created with a single goal in mind: “to craft a contemporary shoe that embodies the importance of heritage and leaves a lasting impression,” according to its website. This is the vision of Hugo Fonce, a Chinese-Mexican native, born in Querétaro and raised in León, México, who’s been meticulously studying the time-tested art of traditional bootmaking for more than a decade.

Clearly, it’s paid off. Since 2011, UNMARKED has been hand-making shoes and boots out of its little workshop located in León, Mexico — nestled inside the “barrio antiguo”, or “old quarter” — where shoes have been made since the seventeenth century. Every UNMARKED shoe, boot, and sneaker has been designed and made under the same roof since the brand set up shop, using antique machinery and tools from the ‘20s. The making of an UNMARKED shoe is “an intricate process that spans four weeks and entails more than 200 meticulous steps,” according to the website, which is an exciting prospect, knowing so much love and know-how has gone into the making of your pair of boots. So, with that, let’s take a look at the construction.

Construction

Unboxing a new pair of leather boots is a sensory delight. There’s no disputing that if you’re into leather, its smell — especially when new and unused — is exceptional, and Unmarked’s Archie Boots are no exception. It’s worth noting that when I pulled them out for the first time and gave them a good sniff, I was getting some slightly synthetic top notes. Perhaps the leather was treated during the manufacturing process, or maybe my nose malfunctioned, but it quickly faded after the first wear. 

The boots feature: 

• Goodyear welt construction
• Brass eyelets sourced from Trendware in the USA
• Waxed cotton laces
• Leather heel counter and toe stiffener
• In-house-made leather shank
• Dr. Sole half sole super grip sole

The upper has been made from vegetable-tanned bison leather, sourced from Cisne Tannery in Mexico, and the lining is calf leather. The insole, midsole, and footbed are all made from vegetable-tanned leather, and the footbed specifically has been fitted out with some cork cushioning for extra comfort.

The only piece of the boot that has been sourced from outside the USA or Mexico is the Dr. Sole super grip sole, which has been sourced from Taiwan. Just going down the features list on the website, it’s clear that no corners have been cut, from the sourcing of materials right through to the decision to include a leather heel counter and toe stiffener. 

Right out of the box, the first thing I noticed was that these boots had some heft to them. I’ve never trained with ankle weights, nor do I ever plan to, so this is probably the closest I’m going to get. I took the time to actually weigh the boots, and they came out to just under four pounds, which is pretty similar to my pair of Red Wing Iron Rangers. 

The second thing I noticed was the stiffness of the bison leather, which I classify as a positive. Often referred to as “buffalo leather”, bison leather, characterized by its distinct natural pebble-grain pattern, is a distinctive and high-quality material that has gained popularity in the world of leather goods. This type of leather is derived from the hides of American bison, specifically the ones found sauntering the great plains in  North America. While the leather is beautiful, its toughness means there’s very little bend around the ankle specifically, so when I was trying to walk down some steps for the first time, I was holding on to the railing like it was the morning after a hellacious squat session.

Speaking of pain, let’s chat about the break-in period. One word to sum it up? Average. Given the toughness of the leather and structured silhouette, I had braced myself for a bumpy ride. To my surprise, however, after about a week of woodland dog walks, they were good to go. Weirdly, also, the pain points during the break-in period were peculiar to say the least. Rather than your conventional back-heel blister bash, it was my inner heel that bore most of the boot’s brunt. That, and my ankle felt like it had fallen victim to an imaginary boa constrictor. Nevertheless, the pain was short-lived and very, very worth it. 

A month or so on and there are no loose threads present, the leather has broken in nicely, and they look fantastic. Speaking of looks:

Style

While not explicitly mentioned on the website, the design of UNMARKED’s Archie boots seems to draw influence from classic workwear boots like Lineman and Logger boots. The lace-to-toe design allows for a customizable, secure fit, much like the lacing systems on lineman boots that ensure stability when climbing utility poles. Additionally, the rugged and robust appearance of the Archie boots, with reinforced heel and toe caps, brings to mind the durability and functionality expected from workwear styles. While designed for different purposes, these boots share a sense of practicality and a rugged aesthetic that makes them stand out as a unique boot choice for those who appreciate the lineworker’s sense of style. 

The Archie is a chunkier boot, which lends itself very well to wider-fitting pants. Slimmer pants, not so much, especially if you have bigger feet. The slimmer the pants, the more clown-like the look becomes. Lucky for us, straight has become great again, so rocking lineman-esque boots has never been easier. 

Black boots are a little less versatile than your typical dark brown; however, the boots can be easily worn with denim, olive fatigues, black pants, or even a pair of wide-fitting white jeans, as seen on the website. 

Sizing

If you’re looking to pick up a pair of UNMARKED Archies and you have experience with Red Wing, I’d personally recommend going with your Red Wing size. That said, UNMARKED provides some pretty in-depth sizing guidance on its website, as well as an exact measurement of the shoe/boot in centimeters, so do check that out. In short, I’d recommend sizing down at least a half-size unless you want your toes flapping about in the toe box.

Closing thoughts

In a world where heritage boots have transcended their niche origins to become a mainstream fashion statement, the price tags have often followed suit, making the pursuit of quality footwear an expensive endeavor. What once was a tucked-away hobby that only a select few paid attention to is now, for many, a symbol of style and substance. Yet, as inflation continues its steady climb, the idea of investing in a truly exceptional pair of boots can be a bitter pill to swallow.

This is where UNMARKED emerges as a welcome game-changer. By offering exceptionally well-crafted, no-nonsense boots that rival their high-end counterparts at half the cost, UNMARKED has found its niche and is making a significant contribution to Mexico’s growing reputation as a distinguished bootmaker, one pair of boots at a time. 

Available for $390 from UNMARKED’s website.