“While the penny loafer has uncertain origins, the modern design is indebted to John Bass, who adapted the omnipresent Weejun design in 1930 with a slit strap across the front. Traditionally, the loafer was defined by having no buckles, laces, or decoration of any sort. Fashion-forward students took to putting pennies in their loafers, which could be used as source of emergency funds for pay phones.”
From Norway to the USA and now the iconic Penny Loafer has landed in Mexico with Unmarked’s Jack Dress interpretation. I had the opportunity to wear test a pair in black suede to see if these are worth your pennies (35,000 of them).
By the Numbers
- Name: Jack Dress Penny Loafer
- Materials: Black suede split leather
- Welt: 360 degree Goodyear construction
- Made in: Mexico
- Unique Features:
- Lug commando ‘Bilbo’ sole
- Split toe design
- Available for $350 at Unmarked
About Unmarked
I first became aware of Unmarked at the Inspiration Show in 2016. The brand was founded by Claribel Pérez and Hugo Fonce, two industrial designers with a passion for shoemaking, and they set up shop in one of the world’s shoemaking capitals, Leon, Mexico. Their goal was to make shoes that combined traditional Mexican silhouettes and techniques with natural materials and quality construction that could compete with footwear made anywhere in the world.
Based on my experience, they’ve been successful at that mission. So before you turn up your nose at “Made in Mexico”, know that Unmarked’s offerings can go toe to toe with anything in their price range.
Design
The Jack Dress is your fairly stock standard loafer silhouette with a few notable exceptions:
- A split into a second panel in the middle of the vamp
- A subtle split toe
- A lugged commando sole (and taller overall upper to match it)
- And a pinch close heel that you typically only see on handsewns
The whole package adds up to something more contemporary and casual than a loafer from traditionalists like Alden, Rancourt, or Grant Stone and has some tones of a Gucci creeper, especially in an all black colorway. It works and it does a have a good deal of versatility as the lugs give it a “tactical sport” quality.
Like this? Read these:
One other thing to note is that the loafer strap has a thick beefroll stitch, but otherwise isn’t attached to the plug of the shoe, meaning it’s a loose strap across the top and a penny would probably slip out the bottom.
Fit
For the Durango V2 I probably should’ve gotten a 10, and for these I definitely should’ve gotten a 10. I’m a Brannock 9D and Unmarked recommends sizing up a half, I say take it a whole. I even stretched these out a bit with my shoe stretcher and it’s been a struggle.
That said, the last is solid and has a good amount of volume. The rounded toebox also minimizes hotspots and the veg-tanned leather insole has already started to mold to my feet.
Materials
The Jack Dress Loafers don’t cut corners on the materials. The suede is a standard split leather with a decent amount of nap. As mentioned, the insole, outsole, and heel stack are all veg-tanned leather.
The rubber halfsole and heel is from a company called Bilbo, like the hobbit. I can’t find any information on them outside of Unmarked’s own website, but they feel equivalent to a Vibram 232 mini-lug.
There’s also a strong chemical/Sharpie type smell on the shoes, which is probably coming off of the edge dressing. It faded within a week or so of wear but is noticeable straight out of the box.
Construction
The Jack Dress is solidly constructed and should last for many years with recrafting and proper care. The shoes use a full 360 Goodyear welt and the work appears neat and tidy. This means they should be relatively easy to recraft, although you should be able to change out the half soles a couple times before needing a full resole.
All of the upper stitching has a decently high stitch per inch count and, aside from that penny strap, there’s nothing loose or flopping around on them.
The only minor cosmetic flaw I could find is the stitching out the outsole is slightly uneven and there’s a little bit of visible glue residue coming off of the heel stack.
But these are fairly small nits to pick on an otherwise clean pair.
Conclusion
At $350 retail, Unmarked’s Jack Dress represent a welcome addition for those looking for loafers with heritage-level construction and materials but want something with a more contemporary and versatile design and outsole.
Available for $350 at Unmarked.
