Big John needs no introduction: their presence in the world of textiles extends back over seventy years and they’re recognized as pioneers within the world of denim. With their recent offering, the KURO2 Type 3 Denim Jacket, the brand looks to the past for inspiration.
The fabric itself is a replica of the first coloured Japanese denim from the “Road Colors” collection with denim produced by Cone Mills back in 1969. The 12-ounce sanforized selvedge denim is black indigo overdyed. No, this doesn’t mean they went too far in the dyeing process; it means that unlike regular black denim, the warp yarn is dyed in indigo before it’s dyed in black sulphur dye.
The weft also goes through a special dyeing process which allows it to fade at the same rate as the warp. While standard black denim can be quite unyielding at the outset, this special dyeing process creates a denim that is softer than its compatriots.
With consistent wear, the indigo color will begin to show through the black on the surface with the weft fading along with the warp. While we don’t yet have any shots of a jacket with fades, you can check out the fades on a pair of jeans made from the same fabric at Blue Owl Workshop. In conventional black denim, the sulfur-dyed weft will remain black though you can see the weft fading to white with the KURO2 denim.
In addition to replicating a vintage denim, the design hearkens back to the classic Levi’s Type 3 jacket with a few choice details included. The cinch on the back gives the jacket a bit of vintage flair, also allowing for a simple method of slimming as needed. All of the hardware is custom-engraved with the brand’s logo and there is red and yellow selvedge detailing throughout: on the cuffs, the placket, and the inside collar loop. On the inside is an addition we’re seeing a number of brands adopt—a wash/condition log tag for record keeping. We’re excited to see how this piece will age with some serious wear.
- Name: Big John KURO2 Type 3 Denim Jacket
- Weight: 12 Oz.
- Denim: 100% cotton sanforized black indigo overdyed selvedge
- Other Details:
- Replication of vintage 1969 Cone Mills fabric
- 6 pockets (2 chest, 2 hand-warmer, 2 inside)
- Leather patch
- Made in Japan
- Available at Blue Owl for $295.00