One may associate balaclavas with bank robbers, but many folks out there just want to keep their faces protected from the cold, and the balaclava is the best — and comfiest — way to do just that.
Born out of wartime necessity in the 19th century and remaining relatively unchanged to this day, the balaclava is a notorious winter accessory that covers large portions of the face with a soft material, keeping you warm, toasty, and anonymous.
But where did the balaclava come from? What’s with the name? And why have they had such a surge in fashion popularity in recent years? We’ll be exploring all of that and more in this one-stop guide on balaclavas, as well as pointing you in the direction of some well-made balaclavas that you’ll want to use forever.
What is a Balaclava?
Fujito Balaclavas via Namu Shop.
Also known as a ski mask, a balaclava is a piece of headgear that covers part of the face as well as the head, typically leaving only the eyes unprotected. Balaclavas come in different forms that prioritize protecting or exposing different parts of the face, but the function of a balaclava is always to keep the head, face, and neck warm and protected from frost and chill.
Styles of Balaclava
3 Hole
Image via Wikipedia.
The most recognizable form of balaclava, made famous by the SAS. in the 1980s. This style has 2 separate holes for the eyes and one for the mouth.
2 Hole
2 hole balaclavas simply have 2 holes for the eyes.
1 Hole
J.L.-A.L. Balaclava, available for $84 from This Thing of Ours.
1 hole balaclavas have 1 opening which is either for the eye or a larger part of the face along with the eyes, sometimes the eyes, nose, and mouth. While they cover less of the face, they still cover the cheeks and forehead, as well as the rest of the head and neck,
History of the Balaclava
‘Crimean War Winter Clothing for the British Troops’ is an 1854 illustration by an unknown artist. Image via Fine Art America.
Face protection has been around for centuries, but not in the knitted form that premiered in the Crimean War of the late 19th century. To help British soldiers face the biting cold of Crimea, small makers and loved ones back home hand-knitted headdresses that were sent out to the front. Allied troops were famously ill-clothed as their warm clothing, food, and weatherproofing supplies didn’t arrive on time. The below excerpt from ‘The Crimean Doctors – A History of British Medical Services in the Crimean War’ by John Sheperd touches on this:
Exactly when the term ‘balaclava’ became a household name is unknown, however, the term is used in an 1886 publication of Weldon’s Practical Needlework No. 2, Vol. 1: Practical Knitter, Second Series. Image via Etsy
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Over time, knitted balaclavas became a standard piece of workwear for those working in frigid climates, especially members of various armed forces. The British SAS famously wore balaclavas during operations in Northern Ireland to help conceal their identity. This practice was adopted by special operations forces across the globe to help conceal the identity of troops as well as create a more visibly intimidating force.
It is not uncommon for standard military troops to wear balaclavas, either. Warzones can be extremely dusty places and headgear that covers the mouth can help protect the wearer’s lungs from excessive dust inhalation. The United States has also highlighted the Arctic as somewhere with the potential to become a contested space against its two greatest rivals – Russia and China. With this in mind, the Department of Defense has committed to improving the Arctic capability of the United States Military. Arctic units are now trained in the coldest parts of the USA and taught to ski, camp, survive, and fight in the coldest of regions. Balaclavas made of high-performance fleece are a key part of the uniforms of these Arctic units.
“U.S. Army Alaska Aviation Task Force Soldiers conducting a Cold Weather Indoctrination Course These Soldiers completed a three-mile snowshoe ruck march to their bivouac site and spent the night sleeping in Arctic 10-man tents. CWIC training is required of all Soldiers assigned to U.S. Army Alaska annually to ensure America’s Arctic Warriors have the knowledge and experience to survive, train, operate, fight, and win in extreme cold weather and high altitude environments. Photos by Spc. Liliana S. Magers, U.S. Army Alaska Public Affairs. Information and image via Jeni Kirby History”
Balaclavas also entered the sporting world, protecting skiers, snowboarders, cyclists, and even racing drivers from certain elements. They fit easily under helmets of all shapes and sizes, and in the instance of car-racing, can be made from a fire-retardant material to protect the head, face, and neck from burns in the event of a crash.
Social Context & Popular Culture
A still from 2000 Guy Ritchie movie, Snatch, via Film Affinity.
Arguably the most intimidating cold-weather accessory, the face-covering design of the balaclava saw it adopted by terrorists and criminals as a way of concealing their identity whilst committing atrocious acts. Wearing a balaclava on a winter dog walk may garner comments that you look like you’re ‘on your way to rob a bank’, as bank robbers in films are often portrayed in balaclavas or masks.
Yeat in his signature distressed balaclava via uDiscover Music.
Notwithstanding these stereotypes, the balaclava has enjoyed a surge in popularity in recent years. Drill rappers across the globe (in need of concealing their identities) and rappers like Yeat have played a part in thrusting the balaclava into popular consciousness – a motion compounded by the COVID-19 pandemic which encouraged everyone to cover their nose and mouth whilst in public.
Styling shots from This Thing of Ours, featuring balaclavas made by Italian hiking label, ROA.
The Gorpcore/Techwear phenomena have a part to play, too. Balaclavas are big in the outdoor industry for their high functionality, perfect for cold mountain tops, frigid campsites, and other settings on winter outdoor endeavors. A walk around the center of a fashion-forward city like London, New York, or Milan may expose you to folks pairing their GORE-TEX jackets with a balaclava made from soft Polartec fleece or a more technical fabric. Gorp/Tech tastemaker, This Thing of Ours always carries a decent range of balaclavas to fit this aesthetic and many more.
All of these factors and more have led to balaclavas becoming a fashion accessory for trendy folk, with many of the major fashion houses creating unique, edgy, and nuances headwear based on the balaclava. Despite a surge in the fashion popularity of the balaclava, one could argue they’re not the best accessory to be wearing in Whole Foods or whilst enjoying a cortado outside your local coffee spot. Save yours for a winter hike or that aforementioned frosty morning walk.
Image via the Guardian
Makers of High-Quality Balaclavas
In modern times, balaclavas are widely available and made in a plethora of materials. The most common materials used are cotton, wool, and acrylic, while more technical balaclavas are produced from fabrics from makers like Polartec, GORE-TEX, and more.
Margeret Howell
Margaret Howell MHL Ribbed Balaclava Lambswool, available for $102 from Lost & Found.
Fujito
Fujito Knit Balaclava Beanie, available for $105 from Namu Shop.
Goldwin
Goldwin Stretch Grid Balaclava, available for $73 from Wallace Mercantile.
The Trilogy Tapes
The Trilogy Tapes Balaclava Beanie, available from Rhythmic Tones for $68.
