I haven’t worn a pair of cowboy boots since I was about five years old. And those I believe hardly qualify as they were part of a Toy Story Halloween costume and had less structural integrity than Crocs recent attempt at cowboy boots.
Despite starting off on an odd foot, I have drifted more and more to my Colorado roots in western wear the last few years as more snap shirts appeared in my closet and my default footwear of choice is a pair of Yuketen Ropers. So I jumped at the opportunity to wear test a pair of Unmarked’s latest pair of cowboys, the Durango V2.
And after about a month of wear, I’ve found them to be an elegant and handsome introductory pair that felt immediately natural and may have finally pushed me into buying a Stetson and completing the silly cycle I’ve been on the last five years. Consider that a warning.
By The Numbers
- Name: Durango V2
- Materials: Calfskin, veg-tanned leather outsole
- Welt: 120 degree Goodyear mini welt with wooden pegs at waist
- Made in: Mexico
- Unique Features:
- Decorative stitching
- Pull-on loops
- “Punto marcado” decorative welt marking
- Available for $500 at Unmarked
About Unmarked
I first became aware of Unmarked at the Inspiration Show in 2016. The brand was founded by Claribel Pérez and Hugo Fonce, two industrial designers with a passion for shoemaking, and they set up shop in one of the world’s shoemaking capitals, Leon, Mexico. Their goal was to make shoes that combined traditional Mexican silhouettes and techniques with natural materials and quality construction that could compete with footwear made anywhere in the world.
Based on my experience, they’ve been successful at that mission. So before you turn up your nose at “Made in Mexico”, know that Unmarked’s offerings can go toe to toe with anything in their price range.
Design
These are some very good looking boots. The shape and silhouette read like the Platonic ideal of a cowboy boot. They have that narrow waist, nicely rounded toe, gently angled heel, and the decorative stitching is done to a tastefully minimal degree.
They’re also quite versatile. In black calfskin, this is a pair of boots you could reasonably wear with a suit or to a hoedown. I felt cool while wearing these and I think Unmarked really hit it out of the park with the aesthetics.
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Fit
Unmarked recommends to size up on the Durango V2. I’m a Brannock 9D and I went with a 9.5 but I probably should’ve done a 10. They will likely stretch out for the ideal fit but that’s still some time to come.
That’s not to say the break-in is painful—far from it. Stepping into a boot like this, you reach a point of no return where your heel just sort of locks into place and you can feel all the air rush up out the shaft. My feet immediately felt at home, cradled perfectly in the heel, arch and just a little snug on my toes.
They’re leather-soled, so after slipping around on the carpet inside I went for a walk around the neighborhood and did over a mile without any pain or hot spots, just a little pressure on the sides of my toes.
The break-in difficulty comes in taking them off. Insertion is aided by your entire weight stepping down into the boot, removal not so. My average time for getting both of them off is around four minutes, and every second is a full body workout. Whenever I wear them out now, my partner warns me that she won’t help me get them off because her yanking on my feet for an extended amount of time freaks out our dog for some reason.
I will admit, I am a cowboy boot neophyte and maybe this is the way it’s supposed to work, but be warned: size up or get someone with strong forearms to love you. Other than that, the fit is perfect.
Materials
Unmarked sticks to their love of all natural materials here with a full grain calf upper, lining, and insole and a veg-tanned outsole and heel stack. The clicking on the pair I received looked good and I didn’t see any marks or blemishes on the upper and the grain is visible throughout.
They do have a distinct chemical/dye/Sharpie type smell when you get them out of the box, but I believe that’s just the latest layer of shoe polish as a flame to the surface of the leather gave me nothing but a burn mark.
Construction
The construction on the Durango V2 I would characterize as solid. They use a 120 degree “mini welt” on the toe of the sole and wooden pegs on the waist. This isn’t as waterproof or durable as a 270 Goodyear (you should also avoid stepping in puddles in leather-soled boot anyways), but it’s the only way you can get that sleek and narrow shape on the waist and it is still fully resoleable (although your local cobbler may not have the skill to repeg a new sole).
There were no structural defects in the pair I received, but there were a couple examples of sloppy stitching. One on the outsole, where it looks like it had to be redone on the instep of the left boot and more notably on the pull-on loops at the top of the shaft.
They are sewing through at least a half-dozen layers of leather at this step though, and both of these details are cosmetic and won’t affect the life of the boot.
Conclusion
I like these boots, I like them a lot. If I could pull them off more easily (literally and metaphorically) I could see them becoming a daily wear pair.
If you are considering your first foray into the world of cowboy boots, they are a forgiving and well constructed option that can stay with you for many years to come.
Available for $500 at Unmarked.
