Five Plus One is our weekly series of buyer’s guides. We pick a specific category and dig up five great options along with one that’s a little outside the norm.
Derbys are one of the most classic shoe and boot patterns, and while we’ve talked about them many times before there are some striking new options this season. While sometimes incorrectly referred to as bluchers, a derby is an open-laced shoe where the lacing attaches directly to the quarter (which wraps around the back of the ankle) as opposed to a separate piece of leather that is sewn around the throat of the shoe (as is the case with a blucher). Regardless of the nomenclature, this is a fantastic casual pattern than should be in everyone’s footwear rotation.
1) Grant Stone: Country Derby Storm Kudu
Grant Stone‘s Country Derby in Storm Kudu uses a leather we’ve seen from other makers, Storm Kudu from C.F. Stead, and it’s just as beautiful here as it ever has been. It’s a silky smooth Kudu leather with lots of pull-up and tons of variation due to the non-farmed nature of the Kudus it is sourced from. Finished with tonal eyelets and a leather outsole, this is an excellent option for a derby that can be worn with a wide range of styles and doesn’t fall into the typical black and brown categories
Available for $370 from Grant Stone.
2) Oak Street Bootmakers: Trench Oxford in Natural CXL
While Oak Street markets this shoe as an oxford, it’s a derby in our books.
Available for $462 from Oak Street Bootmakers.
3) Tricker’s for Clutch Cafe: Daniel Derby
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If you’re interested in fiercely casual derbies, then Tricker’s Daniel Derby should certainly be on your hit list. It features a beautiful reverse kudu leather which pairs beautifully with the contrasting storm welt, French binding at the throat, and polished brass eyelets. This shoe is finished on a Vibram Morflex sole, which gives these stompers both a unique look and cements them as a formidable piece of casual footwear.
Available for $460 from Clutch Cafe.
4) Viberg: Rockland Blucher in Winter Smoke Regency Calf
Viberg‘s leather picks are always impeccable, and the ‘Winter Smoke’ Regency Calf they sourced from C.F. Stead for their Rockland Blucher (again, it’s a derby in our books) is simply perfect. Featuring brown, grey, and even purple hues, this derby would make a beautiful addition to your footwear arsenal, whether they’re worn every day or only for special occasions (but please, don’t do the latter).
Available for $820 from Viberg.
5) John Lofgren Bootmaker: USN Low Quarter Shoes French Calfskin Russet Brown
If you’re a fan of historically inspired footwear, John Lofgren‘s USN Low Quarter Shoes might be right up your alley. They’re made in Japan from a Japanese-finished French calfskin, and feature a very sleek pattern while still having a structurally stiff toe. Based on iconic derbys issued to USN and USMC personnel in the Pacific War, each pair is finished with a rubber half sole, you get all the comfort of flexibility of a leather sole with the traction and durability of rubber.
Available for $760 from Lost & Found.
Plus One – Unmarked: Mismatch DBS-03
Derbies are one of the most simple and versatile shoe styles, so if you want something that really stands out then Unmarked‘s Mismatch DBS-03 is the way to go. With contrasting black/natural panels that are mirrored between right and left shoes, these aren’t the kind of shoes you wear because you want to blend in. But if you want to add some style and flair to your outfit o whilst having some zany patina to look forward to, then these shoes might be the statement piece for you.
Each pair is crafted in Mexico by skilled shoemakers and ships with an Unmarked dust bag.
Available for $370 from Unmarked.
