I don’t recall exactly how old I was when I got my first wallet, but I was young. Around twelve years old, if I had to guess. It was a gift from my parents at Christmas. I distinctly remember what it looked like: cream leather – probably faux, looking back on it – with a multi-colored graffiti-style print across the back, just in case I had any trouble standing out. It was your classic bi-fold style, equipped with a coin pouch AND note sleeve, both of which were pretty standard in the ‘90s.

Upon receiving it, I was pretty meh about the whole thing – call me ungrateful. It wasn’t something that I had asked for, so it wasn’t something that drew my focus massively. However, thinking back, it was pretty clear that my parents were trying to tell me something through the gesture. I guess they saw it as an almost coming-of-age type of present. Perhaps the modern-day equivalent of a young Viking boy receiving his first arm ring; the only difference being that I didn’t have to wrestle a bear with my bare hands or whatever it is that Viking boys had to do to officially become a man. I’m aware that’s not remotely historically accurate, but you get what I’m saying. 

Regardless, I used it to death. But that’s the beauty of the wallet: it’s with you for however long you’re willing to take care of it, like a little inanimate companion. 

If you think about it, the wallet serves a completely utilitarian purpose. Ultimately, it’s there to carry your preferred method of paying for goods or services; whether that’s cash or card. In recent years, however, its purpose has become somewhat diluted with the emergence of smartphones and watches. People shoving their wrists in cashiers’ faces is becoming less and less weird as the years pass. It pains me to say it, but the wallet has become more of a fashion accessory, depending how far along the Luddite spectrum you are.

However, for those of us that still like to carry a wallet for its intended purpose, it’s important you pick the right one to suit your needs, which we’ll cover in this guide. 

A Brief History of the Wallet

Technically speaking, the concept of the wallet has been around since the invention of currency. Humans have always needed a way to carry around money and precious things. Even Ötzi the Iceman, the natural mummy of a man who lived in the Ötztal Alps on the border between Austria and Italy sometime between 3350 and 3105 BC carried what we’d consider a ‘coin pouch’ nowadays. 

However, the history behind the term ‘wallet’ isn’t as clear-cut. According to a few sources, the word originated in the late 14th century, stemming from the Proto-Germanic term ‘wall’, which means ‘roll’. Others believe the term is derived  from the ancient Greek word Kibisis, a word which was used to describe the sack carried by Hermes, an Olympian deity and herald of the ancient Greek gods, as well as the magic pouch Perseus borrowed from the nymphs during his quest to kill the Gorgon Medusa.

In short, Kibisis has historically been translated as Wallet. The modern usage of the word wallet to describe the semi-flat currency carriers of today came along a little later, almost immediately after the invention of paper currency, which was first invented in Massachusetts in 1690.

Interestingly, back then it was considered ‘uncivilized’ by some to carry a wallet in your pocket. They were a status symbol, something that hasn’t really moved on too much today. The bigger the wallet, the bigger the man, of course, which is why they were often strapped to belts and carried externally for everyone to see. 

The popularity of the wallet continued to rise through the 1800s, evolving in tandem with society as a whole. However, it wasn’t until the 1920s when French fashion house Hermès – a bridle and harness maker at the time – took it upon itself to fashion the first iteration of the wallet we know today. Since then, the wallet has continued to evolve and change; from its design through to the materials used in its construction. 

Define the Need

Before I get into the guide, it’s important to establish what it is you actually need. For example, let’s say you need to carry ten cards on your person at a minimum. Maybe you’ve got a few bank cards, a driver’s license, a couple ID cards for work, some awesome heritage menswear store loyalty cards (wink), and a picture of a loved one. You need that on you at all times. Right, now imagine you purchased a wallet that only had the capacity for six cards at any one time. Then, suddenly, you’re having to think about what you can do without and potentially putting yourself in danger of getting stuck if there was ever a scenario that required a specific card that you culled. 

You see what I’m saying? If you’re in the market for a wallet upgrade, here’s what I suggest you do before you start seriously shopping. Step one, pour the contents of your wallet out onto a flat surface. Remove the cards, receipts, coins, everything. Step two, get rid of everything you don’t need. See this as an opportunity to rid yourself of the crumpled receipt you still have from three years ago when you dined at that one fancy restaurant or the loyalty card you managed to pick up from that one coffee shop across the country you’re never going to visit again. Step three, take stock. What do you need at all times to prevent disaster? Again, you don’t need a store card that gets you a 5% discount when you spend $20 or more. Be discerning. Once you have a better idea of what you need to carry on your person, then you can start looking at what type of wallet might suit you best. 

It’s a simple exercise, but it’ll prevent you from having to repurchase wallet after wallet because you just happened to like a design or thought you could make it work. Don’t get me wrong, design is important and shouldn’t be compromised on. But practicality is even more important. Anyways, onto the guide. 

Pick your style 

I’d like to preface this part of the article by acknowledging that there are probably hundreds of different types of wallets, from the money clip wallet and coat wallet right the way through to the lanyard card holder and coin pouch. However, in the interest of this article not turning into a full-blown post-doctoral thesis on wallet variations, I’m going to go ahead and say there are two main types of wallet: the traditional wallet that typically comes in a bi-fold, tri-fold, or trucker style, and the cardholder or ‘card wallet’. 

Bi-fold

Let’s kick it off with the classic, traditional bi-fold – or billfold – wallet. Often distinguished by its simple yet practical design, typically involving a small amount of leather – perhaps one or two pieces – and a single fold down the center (hence bi-fold), the bi-fold wallet has been worn proudly in the back pockets of men for generations. 

The exterior of a bi-fold wallet doesn’t typically vary too much. I’m not talking about the design, I’m talking about the construction. There’s only so much you can put on the outside, like a small coin pouch, perhaps. The inside is where things get spicy. I’m talking about variations in the number of card slots, the arrangement of card slots, hidden zip compartments, hidden pockets, a note sleeve, the lot. A lot of this is personal preference, though. As long as the wallet you’re interested in can hold what you need it to, you’re good. 

Tanner Goods Utility Bifold Wallet

Constructed from a hefty 3.5oz English bridle leather, the wallet features four card slots (two either side), two hidden pockets underneath the card slots for stashing away receipts, and one lengthwise bill pocket for any cash you’re carrying. 

The wallet is burnished and waxed for extra durability, and made in the U.S.A.

If you’re in the market for a classic bi-fold wallet that’s going to stand the test of time, look no further than Tanner Goods. 

Available for $125 at Tanner Goods.

Il Bussetto Small Bi-fold wallet

The Italians do wallets like they do tailoring: slim and sleek, and Il Bussetto’s Small Bi-fold is no exception. Constructed from a buttery vegetable-tanned “Cuoio” leather, the wallet features six card slots (three either side), a soft fabric lining, and a lengthwise bill slot. The wallet – made in Italy by hand – has been hand-painted with natural colors, which’ll patina and fade beautifully over time with use.

Despite being a little smaller than your average bi-fold wallet, Il Bussetto still manages to pack in the essentials, which is great if you carry an array of cards on you. It also comes in a bunch of colorways, perfect if you’re looking to stray from the classic black or brown. 

Il Bussetto is one of those small businesses that should be protected at all costs. It’s getting increasingly rare nowadays to find real quality at an affordable price. Luckily, Il Bussetto has our back in the accessories department. 

Available for $108 from Stag Provisions.

RRL’s Tooled Leather Billfold wallet

RRL’s Tooled Leather Billfold wallet has been hand-tooled in Mexico with a turn-of-the-century inspired Southwestern motif. I actually have one of these and, honestly, I marvel at it every time I pull it out of my pants. For real, the intricacy of the design is pretty breathtaking when you take into consideration that a human did it by hand. Kinda makes me feel useless, actually. 

Constructed from American vegetable-tanned leather, the wallet features eight card slots, two slip pockets, and a slot for cash. In case you’re wondering where the thread used to stitch the wallet is from, it’s American-made. RRL going the extra mile, what’s new, ey?

These wallets are produced in small batches due to the nature of how these wallets are constructed. That often means they’re sadly out of stock. However, sign-up to email alerts if you’re keen to get your hands on one. 

Available for $345 from Ralph Lauren.

Pigeon Tree Natural Vegetable Tanned Leather Bifold

Some people think Pigeon Tree has pigeonholed itself as a beltmaker. I’m not mad at it; Isaac makes fantastic belts. Those people need to spread their wings, however, because the one-man-operation that is Pigeon Tree also makes a range of stellar wallets, sure to last a lifetime with the proper care.

Pigeon Tree’s bifold wallet features six card slots and a billfold sleeve, as well as two hidden pockets behind the card slots. This wallet is the definition of no-fuss. The 3.5″ tall, 4.25″ wide wallet punches way above its weight, coming in this natural vegetable-tanned leather, akin to a blank canvas, ready for you to leave your mark.

The wallet clocks in at 85 bucks, which, for a hand-made wallet, is pretty ridiculous. It’s no wonder Isaac’s goods are always on back-order; people can’t get enough.

Available for $85 from Pigeon Tree

Tri-fold

A variant of the bi-fold, the tri-fold is perfect for those that need a little bit more space or a bit of bulk. Characterized by the additional fold, hence tri-fold, the tri-fold wallet typically has two flaps that fold over. If you’re someone that needs a bit more space but still appreciates a minimalist, practical design, the tri-fold could be what you’re after. 

However, if you’re sitting down a lot and you’re using the wallet at full capacity, you’re going to feel it, especially if you wear it in your back pocket. My advice would be to only buy a tri-fold if you need it. It’s very tempting to buy a bit more space just in case, but I guarantee it’ll be filled with unnecessary crap in a matter of no time. 

As a result of society’s overarching move towards more minimalist products, tri-folds are a little harder to find than bi-folds. However, there are still plenty of fire tri-olds out there. 

Opus Japan Mini Tri-fold Wallet

Japanese denim is notorious for having impractical pockets. They’re either impossible to pry open, or they’re too small to fit anything in. Luckily, Japanese artisanal leatherworker Opus has managed to make a tri-fold that’s small enough to carry in your back pocket, but large enough to still be considered a tri-fold. Impressive bit of design, if I do say so myself. 

Opus’ Mini Tri-fold wallet is made from a beautiful vegetable-tanned leather and has more slots and storage than you can shake a stick at. I’m talking one lengthwise bill slot for cash, three card slots, one hidden card slot, and a snap closure coin compartment. 

When folded, the wallet is only slightly bigger than a deck of cards, which is pretty neat when you take into consideration the tri-folds of days gone by. You know, the ones you could use in place of bricks to throw through windows. 

Generally, I like a black or brown wallet but, for some reason, I like Opus’ tri-fold in natural leather. Why? More surface area for patina, baby. 

Available for $160 from Clutch Cafe.

OGL WX2 Tri-fold Short Wallet

OGL’s WX2 tri-fold wallet is minimal and monochromatic, perfect for those who just want, well, a wallet. Function over form while still looking great. The WX2 is constructed from Tochigi vegetable-tanned leather, sourced from the Tochigi Leather Co. tannery in Japan. Established in 1937, the tannery is one of the only ones left in the world that insists on using natural tannins for leather tanning, helping to reduce waste and pollution. 

The wallet features a single-snap half-moon curved front, one bill slot, four card slots, one hidden slot, and a zipped compartment. It’s also been handcrafted, so you know you’re getting something high quality. 

Available for $245 at Rugged Gentleman Shoppe.

The Flat Head Shinki Cordovan Mini Wallet

This hand-sewn wallet comes in a lustrous shell cordovan produced by Japan’s renowned Shinki tannery, the only tannery to specialize in horsehide. The wallet features several cowhide card slots, a lengthwise bill slot, and a pigskin lining, somewhat unusual for a wallet, but I’m not hatin’. 

This particular version of the wallet is exclusive to Rivet and Hide in London, so if you fancy something a bit unique, consider The Flat Head’s Shinki Cordovan Mini. 

Available for $413 (on sale) at Corlection.

Trucker

Last up in the traditional wallets category, the trucker. Originally popularized in the 1950s, the trucker wallet – or long wallet – was created so that folks could carry around more bills without the need to fold them. The credit card was starting to gain some traction and a lot of businesses, especially small businesses in the United States, still preferred good ol’ cash, so truckers, who were often driving through, were incentivized to use cash to pay for their goods when they made a pit stop. Hence, the invention of the trucker wallet. 

In my opinion, the trucker wallet is the best-looking wallet. There’s much more surface area available for intricate stitching and designs. However, more space generally means a bigger wallet. You may struggle to get a trucker wallet in your back-pocket, and if you do, it won’t be all the way concealed. That’s why you’ll often find people who sport trucker wallets with a chain linking it to their belt for safety. 

Anyways, onto the truckers – honk, honk. 

Red Moon Long wallet

Since its inception in 1993, Red Moon has been making some of the most beautiful wallets around. All of the goods produced by the brand are hand-made, and the artisans that hand-make the goods are all hand-picked by the brand’s founder Goto Keichiro. Lots of ‘hand-stuff’, but that’s never a bad thing in the context of heritage clothing and accessories.

Red Moon’s Long wallet is made from 1.5mm thick cowhide leather and features eight card slots, one lengthwise bill compartment, a zip pocket, and a subtly embossed Red Moon logo on the inside.

The best part of this wallet – in my humble opinion – is the Concho snap closure. The concho itself has a beautifully engraved image of a Native American in a traditional headdress, something that has been so intricately designed that you’ll probably notice new details every time you come to open the wallet.

This particular trucker-style wallet doesn’t have the capability to add a wallet chain, so make sure you have pockets big enough before purchasing. 

Available for $510 from Clutch Cafe.

Billy Kirk No. 262 Trucker wallet

To me, Billykirk is almost like Tanner Goods’ older brother. Established in 1999, the brand has been helping to grow the American leather artisan industry for more than two decades, and its experience is evident in the quality of its wallets. 

Self-proclaimed suckers for the classic trucker wallet, Billykirk’s No. 262 trucker is what a trucker should be. Made in Pennsylvania, the wallet is constructed from a premium vegetable-tanned, full-grain leather. The cool thing about this wallet is that it’s semi-customizable in that you can pick your hardware. There’s not a huge selection of materials to pick from, but cool nonetheless. 

My favorite part about this wallet is the single card slot on the exterior of the wallet. You were probably expecting me to say the leather, the construction, or the hardware. I get it. But hear me out. The trucker wallet is a big wallet. Sometimes opening it can be a pain in the ass, especially if you’re just trying to pick up a cup of coffee in the morning. With the exterior card slot, all you need to do is get it out of your pocket and you’re set. It’s the little things. 

Available for $195 from Billykirk.

Check out our long wallet Five Plus One for more suggestions on truckers. 

Tanner Goods Workman Wallet

Constructed from 3.5 oz. vegetable-tanned Meridian English Bridle leather, the wallet features four card slots, two interior pockets for cash and receipts, one zipped coin pocket with RiRi zippers, and an attachment grommet for your wallet chain. 

Available for $180 from Tanner Goods.

Cardholder

The card wallet – or cardholder – is probably the type of wallet, if I had to guess, that has gained the most amount of traction among the younger generation in recent years. This is largely due to the widespread disappearance of cash as a preferred method of paying for goods and services, in conjunction with the minimalism movement, as I mentioned previously. 

Cardholders typically have much less real estate than traditional wallets because they only need to house cards, hence why you’ll often see them carried in front pockets. Cardholders are normally cut from a single piece of leather with several card slots sewn on the exterior. However, you can get bi-fold card holders, too, which are similar looking to bi-fold wallets, just a little smaller and are arranged from a storage perspective with cards in mind primarily. 

Kobashi Studio card case 

Japanese brand Kobashi Studio makes a beautiful classic card case in a buttery smooth Japanese saddle leather. Note, however, that card slots on the exterior are only available on one side, perfect for someone that doesn’t need to carry a huge amount. 

The shiny, oil-finished leather has been produced by the iconic Tochigi tannery, which was first established in 1937 and is currently located in the Kantō region of Honshu, Japan. Considered a rarity, Tochigi leather only uses natural vegetable tanning, a time-consuming but well-worth-it process. The card cases are also made from start to finish by a single Kobashi craftsman, so no chopping and changing machinery with this one. 

Available for $107 from Red Cast Heritage.

RRL Concha Card wallet

RRL’s Tumbled Leather card wallet looks like it’s straight out of the 1920s. Made from full-grain cowhide, RRL’s leather Concho Wallet has a simple, three-slot design. Sealed tight with a silver-tone concho snap, the card wallet has been hand-burnished for a timeworn look and feel, and finished with an additional pocket at the back, branded with the RRL logo. 

Again, these go quickly, so either bookmark the page, sign up for notifications, or shop around if it’s not available. It’s worth seeking out, believe me. 

Available for $225 from Stag Provisions.

Ettinger Capra Flat Credit Card case

If you thought good wallets were only made by the Americans and Japanese, you’d be severely mistaken. Ettinger, a British brand first established in 1934, makes some of the classiest, quintessentially British leather accessories around, and its Capra card case is no exception.

Constructed from goat leather (that’s right, Billy goat), the Capra card case features four credit slots (two on each side) and a central slip pocket for any extras you’re carrying. 

Ettinger is one of the few English brands that has received a Royal Warrant. For those unfamiliar, to be granted a Royal Warrant, you must supply the Royal Household for at least five years on a regular basis, and even then the decision is at the discretion of the Royal Family. So, if you’re in the market for a no-fuss card case fit for a King, check out Ettinger’s Capra card case. 

Available for $175 from Brooklyn Tailors.

Other wallets

As mentioned, there are probably hundreds of different types of wallets, all of which have a specific use. Without going into too much detail, here are a few that we think are worth considering. 

Loyal Stricklin Envelope Wallet

Designed to only house the essentials, envelope wallets are typically no bigger than card holders, but often have the capacity to hold a bunch of cards due to their single-compartment construction. 

Loyal Stricklin’s Envelope Wallet in Italian Rocado shell cordovan is an absolute beauty. The piece is equally suited for both front and back pockets and will patina beautifully with use and care. 

Cordovan smells great by the way – a heavily underrated quality. If sniffing leather was comparable to sniffing glue in terms of its legality, I’d have been locked up ten times over by now. 

Available for $140 from Loyal Stricklin

ONI Denim Selvedge Coin Pouch

If wearing denim as pants isn’t enough for you, you could always rock denim in your pants. I’m talking about your pockets; don’t get any weird ideas. ONI makes a pretty sick selvedge denim coin pouch, made with the same enthusiasm that Oishi-San puts into all his pieces. 

Crafted in the shape of a rectangle, the made-in-Japan coin pouch has been constructed from a super soft Japanese rope-dyed denim and finished with a YKK Japan zipper. In case you’re wondering what color the selvedge line is, it’s pink.

Available for $27 from Red Cast Heritage.

A word on Velcro

Let’s end by addressing the elephant in the room: velcro. I’m going to put it out there right now; velcro is not the one. I’m not saying that because of those old-school Saved by the Bell-style scenes where the stereotypical nerd gets out his wallet, rips it open, and lets out an obnoxiously loud sound comparable to nails on a chalkboard. 

Velcro, as a material, is both practical and efficient, especially on those light-up sneaks we all used to wear back in the day. But when it’s early and you’re in line at the coffee shop, no one needs to hear that. And sadly, there are still negative connotations attached to wallets that have velcro closing and opening mechanisms, such as immaturity, something that probably won’t go away until Pharrel starts rocking one. If you don’t care about that, definitely rock one. Porter is your best bet. 

Porter Yoshida Tanker Wallet

Porter’s Tanker wallet is constructed from an original fabric developed in-house using the iconic MA-1 U.S. Air Force nylon jacket as its basis for inspiration. The wallet comes in a tri-fold style and features several card slots, a lengthwise bill slot, and a zipped compartment. 

Available in black or sage green, the wallet is for those that can’t get enough of the classic MA-1 bomber. So all of us, basically. 

Available for $177 from Hatchet Supply.

Wallets under $85

It’s very hard to justify selling a wallet for more than $300 in my opinion. Yes, you’ll see some exotic leather wallets from brands like Hermes, Ralph Lauren, and Louis Vuitton for thousands, but at that point, you’re paying for the brand. Wallets are generally pretty affordable, and it’s pretty easy to get bang for your buck. 

Here’s a list of excellent wallets for under $85

Unmarked Mini Wallet

If I had to put the wallet into a box, I’d call it a bi-fold card holder. Minimal and sleek, the wallet is constructed from vegetable-tanned leather and features hand-sewn detailing, and multiple card slots. 

Available for $40 from Unmarked 

Il Bussetto Multicolor Card Wallet

So, you don’t like what I’ve included so far, huh? Bit basic? Well, for those that feel that way, check out Il Bussetto’s multicolor card wallet. Cut from the brand’s famous Cuoio leather, the card case features four card slots which have been neatly arranged in both a vertical and horizontal fashion. Made in Italy, the case has been hand-painted by artisans. 

Michelangelo was Italian, so you know you’re getting some good work on the painting front. 

Available for $72 from Stag Provisions.

Loyal Stricklin Miles Wallet

Loyal Stricklin’s Miles wallet is a paired-down bifold. Made from 3.5 oz. Dollaro leather, sourced from the Italian tanner Conceria Walpier, the wallet features four card slots, ideal for up to ten cards, subtle branding, and a texture that is to die for. 

The wallet is made with love in Loyal Stricklin’s Nashville Studio.

Available for $85 from Loyal Stricklin.