Cooking Up Cool: The Rise of Chefcore

If you’ve been keeping your finger on the pulse of the fashion scene lately (or merely have a Hulu subscription), you’ve probably heard the buzz about what’s being dubbed as “Chefcore”. It’s part of the reason why your crush is posting thirst pics of Jeremy Allen White on her Instagram stories, and why polyurethane hospital-aid-looking clogs are being worn by some of the most stylish people on the planet. The chef’s uniform itself has a rich history that dates back to the 19th century and has evolved over the years to reflect the changes in the culinary world and society at large.

A Brief History of Chefwear

Cooking-Up-Cool-the-Rise-of-Chefcore-image-via-GoldenSpoonAwards.com

image via GoldenSpoonAwards.com

The iconic chef uniform was popularized by a French chef, Marie-Antoine Carême, in the early 1800s. He introduced the quintessential white jacket, symbolizing cleanliness and purity in the kitchen, and the toque blanche (white hat) which represented the chef’s rank in the kitchen hierarchy. The number of pleats on the toque was said to represent the number of recipes a chef had mastered.

Over the years the chef uniform underwent several modifications. The white color remained a constant, emphasizing the importance of hygiene in cooking, but the designs and fabrics evolved to accommodate the practical needs of chefs, such as comfort, mobility, and safety. Chefs started also wearing checkered pants to camouflage stains, and double-breasted jackets that could be reversed to hide spills.

As the culinary world expanded and diversified, the need for more versatile and stylish attire arose. These days, chefs retain the functional aspects of traditional chef uniforms but have introduced more relaxed garments that they would wear outside the kitchen.

So, what is Chefcore?

Cooking-Up-Cool-the-Rise-of-Chefcore-Carmy-from-The-Bear-via-Mr.-Porter

Carmy from The Bear via Mr. Porter

At its core (pun intended), Chefcore is an amalgamation of several aesthetics. It blends the utilitarian, functional, hard-wearing facets of workwear; the laissez-faire self-expressionism and creativity of streetwear (a culture wholly inspired by workwear in many ways); and the refined comfort and mobility of the aforementioned chefwear.

A typical fit might consist of wide pants, a button-down band-collar shirt, and some comfy non-slip shoes. Chefs these days might even decide to pair it with a ball cap or a beanie. It’s easy to see the appeal — it’s a look that still exudes an effortless cool, even when one isn’t whipping up a gourmet meal.

Cooking-Up-Cool-the-Rise-of-Chefcore-Brad-Leone-from-Bon-Appetit's-It's-Alive-via-Conde-Nast

Brad Leone from Bon Appetit’s “It’s Alive” via Conde Nast

Like many fashion trends, Chefcore has a myriad of reasons for bubbling up into the collective consciousness. A main reason being the TV show, “The Bear“, where Carmy Berzatto’s lauded, bicep-accentuating white shirts, apron, and tousled hair have sent the internet into a tizzy.

Along with that, TikTok has had a hand in the proliferation of the style. With its snappy short-form video clips, the platform has not only become a hotspot for viral fashion (and food) trends but also a breeding ground for the rise of niche aesthetics like Chefcore. It doesn’t take more than a glance at the Explore Page to see that it’s flooded with fashion and styling videos. The “chefcore” tag on the website has already amassed nearly 20 million views.

Cooking-Up-Cool-the-Rise-of-Chefcore-Sophia-Roe-in-Tilit-via-Refinery29

Sophia Roe in Tilit via Refinery29

And for real-life chefs, social media has been instrumental in catapulting their popularity as they whip up viral recipes. This surge in visibility has put their sartorial choices on the map, with the stylishness of the chefs coming to the fore. Filming from the comfort of their own kitchens, they often opt for relaxed, stylish attire like comfy button-ups and louche pants.

This can be seen with chefs like Pierce Abernathy, who’s parlayed his big social following into place to show off his great fits and has even led to runway gigs. Or with James Beard Award winner, Sophia Roe, who has created a chef-inspired workwear line in tandem with New York chefwear brand Tilit. And (another Bear alum) Matty Matheson  — who always had a bold personal style to go with his larger-than-life personality — and has also created his own chefwear brand, Rosa Rugosa.

Cooking-Up-Cool-the-Rise-of-Chefcore-Pierce-Abernathy-via-@PierceAbernathy-on-Instagram

Pierce Abernathy via @PierceAbernathy on Instagram

Some Chefcore brands

There are some brands that really epitomize the chefcore aesthetic, we’ll touch on a couple here.

Cooking-Up-Cool-the-Rise-of-Chefcore-Matty-Matheson-in-the-Rosa-Rugosa-factory-via-Twitter

Matty Matheson in the Rosa Rugosa factory via Twitter

Rosa Rugosa

Cooking Up Cool: the Rise of Chefcore Rosa Rugosa via Heddels

Rosa Rugosa via Rosa Rugosa.

When Ray Natale and Matty Matheson noticed the clothes they’d wear in the kitchen kept breaking down a lot faster than they should, they decided to create their own. This is how they came up with Rosa Rugosa and aimed to stitch utility, quality, and style into every thread.

In 2017, they established the Canada-based line representing foundational chef-inspired workwear. Their vision materialized into durable, locally made apparel that was inclusive of all body shapes and sizes. The pandemic slammed the factory doors shut, but they acquired sewing equipment leading to the birth of the “Factory of Roses”. Now, Natale and Matheson are at the helm of design and production, echoing a mantra of real-deal quality and authenticity through every seam and stitch.

Service Works

Cooking-Up-Cool-the-Rise-of-Chefcore-Service-Works-SS20-Chef-Pant-via-Hypebeast

Service Works SS20 Chef Pant via Hypebeast

Straight outta London, Service Works is serving up a sizzling collection of workwear that’s all about the sweet spot between function and comfort. Their mantra is “designed for chefs, adapted for all”, and it couldn’t be more on point. With their collection of chore coats and straight-leg chef trousers, they maintain an aesthetic that is all at once practical and stylish. For those classic chef pants, a palette of muted tones replaces the expected black-and-white check that one normally sees. Service Works cracks the code of making garms that can turn heads while still remaining on the practical side.

Birkenstock

Cooking-Up-Cool-the-Rise-of-Chefcore-3sixteen-co-founder-Johan-Lam-in-brown-Birkenstock-Super-Birkis-via-@johan3sixteen-on-Instagram

3sixteen co-founder Johan Lam in brown Birkenstock Super Birkis via @johan3sixteen on Instagram

Among the latest to make a seamless transition from practicality to vogue is the humble Birkenstock Super Birki clog. Born in bustling kitchens where slick floors demanded a reliable grip, the Super Birki stood as a go-to for the hustling staff.

The clog’s anatomically shaped cork-latex footbed and nonslip sole proved to be a boon for professionals who spend countless hours on their feet ensuring comfort without compromising on safety. Initially designed as a a nonslip shoe for restaurant workers, the unassuming clog is now strutting down the runway of social feeds and fashion circles where it’s been embraced all over, and seen in collaborations with brands like Berlin-based 032c.

Cooking-Up-Cool-the-Rise-of-Chefcore-Birkenstock's-collaboration-Super-Birkis-with-Berlin-based-brand-032c-via-Hypebeast

Birkenstock’s collaboration Super Birkis with Berlin-based brand 032c via Hypebeast

Whitesville & Merz b. Schwanen

Cooking-Up-Cool-the-Rise-of-Chefcore-Carmy-and-Sydney-from-the-Bear-via-FX

Carmy and Sydney from the Bear via FX

Much has been said about the shirts worn by Jeremy Allen White’s Carmy on The Bear so I won’t rehash it here. But I did want to touch on the allure of the white shirt, and the two brands that have been in the spotlight recently.

In an environment laden with sauce and grease, it is surprising that the white tee has become part of the chefcore line-up. Just look at the lead picture of this article – the chef next to Bourdain wears a white tee (albeit printed). Truth be told, logic doesn’t prevail here. The plain white tee is simply undeniable and it wins in this nook of fashion, too.

Cooking-Up-Cool-the-Rise-of-Chefcore-Merz-b.-Schwanen-Heavyweight-Slub-T-Shirt-via-Rivet-&-Hide

Merz b. Schwanen Heavyweight Slub T-Shirt via Rivet & Hide

Located in the Swabian Alps of southwestern Germany, Merz b. Schawnen is renowned for its “simply good” basics, and known for its unique fabrics and vintage touch. They utilize rare 100-year-old loopwheelers (circular knitting machines) for production. This traditional manufacturing process allows them to create garments with a distinctive character and quality.

Cooking-Up-Cool-the-Rise-of-Chefcore-Whitesville-T-Shirt-via-Semi-Basement

Whitesville T-Shirt via Semi Basement

Whitesville, originally an American sportswear label that produced t-shirts and varsity jackets in the 50s, faced oblivion with the rise of large corporations and eventually shuttered its doors. However, in 2007, Japan’s Toyo Enterprise (a household name known for its other brands like Buzz Rickson’s and Sugar Cane) resurrected the brand, acquiring the license to repurpose it in Japan with a meticulous adherence to the original designs.

Now Whitesville continues to cater to a niche audience, preserving the vintage American sportswear aesthetic while infusing good ol’ Japanese craftsmanship ensuring each piece reflects the brand’s storied heritage.

Whitesville’s 2pack tees now sell out pretty much everywhere, but when in stock, can be found at:

Merz. B Schwanen 215 2-thread T-shirt, available from Redcast Heritage for $70


So, what’s your take on Chefcore? A passing trend or a new perspective on workwear that is here to stay?