Call them what you will: Winter button-downs, flannels, plaid shirts, they’re one of the most popular shirting options out there. Thousands of styles, even more varieties of patterning to choose from, from pretty much every brand in our niche of fashion. What does the staff at Heddels think about flannels? Are we strictly wool flannel, or are lighter-weight styles preferable?
Why trust us? Well, we’ve all been in the game long enough to have field-tested a range of quality clothing, and the Heddels operation puts us onto some of the best clothing in the world week in, week out. Whilst our opinions and experiences shouldn’t be taken as definitive, this series will provide you insight into what has worked for us and why.
Zach – Pendleton Buffalo Check Wool Flannel
Pure wool flannel—there’s something to be said for this insulating material when it comes to shirts. By comparison, I’ve owned a pile of cotton flannel shirts. The winter wind cuts through a cotton outer layer like cold steel. Wool also won’t fade in the wash and shrugs off wrinkles like trees shrug off fresh snow. Believe me, there’s a reason that—once upon a time—the word “flannel” implied “wool.” Pendleton is part of the reason for this association because they’ve been making flannel shirts for almost a century. This season’s “Scout” line of shirts continues the legend.
The color choices are equally as nice. I’ve seen no less than four other “buffalo check” shirts in the last two days. What started as “Rob Roy”—a black-on-red Scottish tartan—has become the ultimate flannel pattern. It’s now the pattern of the 2023 autumn season. Pendleton has woven a fitting tribute; strong but with a smooth hand. The fabric is so well woven, that the collar feels comfortable against my neck even while hiking. If you already wear wool shirts, you’ll know what a big deal that is!
The Scout shirt is available from Pendleton for $175.
Brad – Gitman Vintage Flannel
Admittedly, $260 is a steep price for a flannel shirt. If you’re the kind of person who won’t pay for a name on a tag but will enthusiastically pony up for top-grade quality, then maybe you’re intrigued by this humble-looking shirt having such a price tag. Given the fact that you’re reading this article, it is safe to assume that you stand firmly in the latter category. This makes you just the type of person who can appreciate the level of quality found in a Gitman Bros. garment. Gitman Vintage, the ready-to-wear arm of the Pennsylvania shirt makers offers the highest level of fabric and fabrication that I’ve ever come across in shirting.
I only own one Gitman Bros. shirt now and it is hands down the best flannel shirt I’ve ever worn. A slight hourglass shape in the body creates a silhouette that is form-fitting but in no way constricting. Full range of motion is provided by a sleeve that starts roomy at the shoulder and tapers to the cuff. Every stitch is tight, with no loose or misplaced threads to be found. The button stitching is a work of art on every single one. To be admired above all is the fabric. A beefy 100% cotton flannel started butter soft when I got it and has only gotten more supple with countless washes and wears over the years.
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I wear this shirt sparingly because it is very warm so only about a third of the year sees appropriate weather. It is still in pristine condition after dozens of wears over about six years, so I expect to have this bad boy for at least another couple of decades. Which makes $260 almost sound like a bargain. Plenty of retailers sell Gitman Vintage but Stag provisions tend to have the best variety at any given time.
Available on sale for $210 from StagProvisions.
Nav – South2 West8 6 Pocket Shirt Twill Plaid Shirt
Around 2 years ago it came to my attention that the “heavy go-to flannel shirt” section of my wardrobe was severely lacking. I sought to rectify this as soon as possible as the fall and winter seasons here in Amsterdam can get very harsh, very quickly. The good people at Nepenthes London were there to oblige. This South2 West8 shirt ticks all the boxes I look for in a flannel, the cotton fabric is both thick and soft so it’s comfortable as a stand-alone or layering piece.
The slightly oversized and extremely boxy fit also suits my aesthetic down to the ground. I love the loop closure for the top button and of course, having 6 pockets on the front not only sets it apart from all the mundane flannels out there but does come in handy. This is the second winter I’ve had this beauty and it’s already climbed up a few places in the pecking order of my rotation. If you find yourself in the same boat I was in a couple of years ago then I highly recommend giving this shirt a thought as Nepenthes refresh the colors fairly often.
David – Pendleton Snap Front Western Canyon Shirt
Many of my trustiest pieces are impulse purchases. Take this Snap Front Western Wool Flannel from Pendleton. I bought it in 2018 while passing through Rapid City, South Dakota. I was wandering down some tourist trap main street full of ice cream and t-shirt shops when I saw it in a window. Sometimes you just know it’s time to pay full price on the spot, including the tourist tax.
And I’m glad I did because this flannel has been a standby for me from the moment I put it on. It’s warm in the winter, and relatively cool on summer nights, it doesn’t need to be washed much, layers easily, and is soft to the touch. I’ve taken it to the beach and to the top of mountains. And to this public toilet in New Zealand.
The version I have is made in Mexico from US milled fabric and, with the exception of a small hole near the hem I had to mend, the quality has been very good. I wanted to sell them in our store but Pendleton doesn’t wholesale, probably why they’re not overly expensive. They’ve made this shirt for the better part of a century, so I’m definitely coming back for another when this one has had enough.
Oli – Vintage Ralph Lauren Polo Flannel Shirt
I’ve actually bought this shirt twice—which is a testament to how much I love it. It’s a ‘90s Polo Ralph Lauren flannel button-down, which I first found in a thrift shop about 10 years ago. I wore it once a week throughout the fall and winter (and occasionally open over a t-shirt in the summer). The collar wore through and I had to fix patch it up and looked great. But then it went missing in a move. I was devastated.
Then, a few years later, I found it again on a reselling site and was ecstatic. I bought it again immediately. Version 2 is about two years old, which is to say I have had it for about two years. In reality, it’s closer to thirty. They’ve both been a great red, white and green plaid and it can be both dressed up and dressed down—so it’s been worn out for dinner but also for cosy Sundays at home. All in all, it’s the perfect shirt, which will hopefully last another 30 years. Or I can always find a third one on resale.
Daniel – Iron Heart Lightweight Ombre Flannel
Image via James Dant
I go back and forth on how I feel about flannels. As long as I’ve been cognizant of our bubble of fashion, I’ve thought of flannels as quite basic, something akin to a henley. They’re everywhere and we all think we look amazing in them… but it’s not so simple, and for a long time I refused to believe they were as easy to wear just about any time and as good-looking as they are. Nowadays I’ve accepted that if you want to look good, have a functional shirting option, with some of the most interesting-looking fabrics you can find… flannels are it. Call me basic.
This Iron Heart Ombre flannel has been my go-to winter button-down, even if it’s lighter weightthat their Ultra-Heavy collection, and is perfectly suitable for the cooler months, up until now. This fabric is simply beautiful, and IH using indigo in the milling of the fabric means the shirt is going to look unlike any other flannel out there down the line.
A selection of Iron Heart’s Ombre Flannels is available at Iron Heart for $365.
Ben – Vintage Cotton Flannel
Ever since I found this 60s-70s Roomy Richard Cotton Flannel, it’s been my go-to layer come colder weather. Featuring that magic plaid pattern, I fell in love the moment I excavated it from a mountain of clothing at an estate sale back in October 2020. Although already worn in pretty nicely when I found it, I think I can take some credit for getting it to look and feel how it does now. Love the black buttons, short collar, and versatile cut which works buttoned up, unbuttoned, or even tucked in. Move over buffalo check!
