Samurai Messed with the Type 1 Silhouette

Some people get mad when brands add hand pockets to a Type III, so I can’t imagine how purists will feel about Samurai Jeans adding handwarmer pockets to a Type 1 Denim Jacket. In truth, the vintage denim head in me isn’t sure how he feels about it, but I can’t deny this is still one heck of a Denim Jacket from one of the best Japanese labels in the business.

In terms of fabric, Samurai is on point as ever, coming in hot with a 15 oz. ‘Otokogi’ selvedge denim, woven on shuttle looms from 100% Texas cotton. This mid-weight denim is full of texture with a touch of nep, and is finished with a lovely silver and gold selvedge ID. Now onto the silhouette. Samurai has basically melded the Type I & Type II framework and added the handwarmer pockets seen on later Type IIIs. The singular chest pocket — a calling card of the Type I — is placed in the higher position found on Type IIs. The rear cinch has also been removed and swapped for the tab adjusters of the Type II.

What Samurai is doing here is stepping away from purist repro and making a modern denim jacket with time-honored detailing. The silhouette has been lengthened to cater to modern styling and internal pockets have been included in addition to external handwarmer pockets. If you’ve wanted to get into the Type I silhouette but struggle with its super-cropped silhouette, this Samurai piece might be your way in.

Available from Redcast Heritage for $317.