Knowing Your Raw Denim: Slub and Nep

When it comes to the realm of raw denim, two of the most pertinent, yet often misunderstood, characteristics are nep and slub. Though these terms may seem like silly, redundant jargon, we can’t stress enough the importance of these denim traits. Not only do they affect the feel and texture of raw jeans, but they also impact the overall fade and evolution of any pair of denim.

Slub

Samurai's-18OZ-S140SXJ-GRK-Is-Stuffed-With-Details-'n'-Slub-detailed

Close-up of some slubby denim by Samurai. Image via Redcast Heritage

We’ve previously broken down the meanings of slub and slubiness, but in essence, slub refers to denim fabric made with indigo warp yarn which differs in thickness throughout. This results in denim without an uneven, sometimes rough texture which will have a much different hand than denim woven with uniform yarns.

In some slubby denim, a technique called loom chatter is employed during the weaving process to help make the finished fabric even more textured. The layman’s explanation of loom chatter is that the shuttle looms that are used to weave the fabric are set to a low tension level while they weave. This lower tension setting makes the looms literally shake while they weave the denim – an action which, in addition to the naturally uneven nature of the yarn used to weave the denim, makes the product even more uneven and textured.

Fade Friday - Hanzo The Raid 17oz. Big Slub (11 Months, 2 Washes, 1 Soak)

Slubby denim can either possess a softer or rougher feel than most raw denim, depending on the cotton used. Aside from the difference in texture that slubby denim is noted for, its irregularity in yarn thickness also tends to result in more interesting fades.

Specifically, these fades tend to run more vertically along the fabric than horizontally. The reason behind the unusual fading characteristics in slub denim is very interesting as the vertical fading occurs because the indigo dyes tend to fade at different rates based on the varying thickness of the yarn used to produce the denim. This vertical fading characteristic is also known as Tate-Ochi, or “vertical falls”, in Japanese.

Fade Friday - Hanzo The Raid 17oz. Big Slub (11 Months, 2 Washes, 1 Soak)

Faded slubby selvedge denim from Hanzo ‘The Raid’ Jeans. Notice the unique waterfall texture caused by the slubby weave of the denim, which has emerged as the denim has faded.

Nep

naked-famous-lord-of-nep-selvedge

An extreme example of Nep via Naked & Famous.

Nep has often been confused with slub because of the textural characteristics that they both share. However, the difference between the two often needs to be very clearly defined. Have you ever stumbled upon a pair of jeans that seemed to have little particles of white fluff protruding from the main part of the garment? It may have looked a little bit like below.

Close up on horizontal and vertical nep fades.

Close-up on horizontal and vertical nep fades.

When a garment is neppy, or has nep, it usually just means that the fabric of the garment has been woven in a way that some of the cotton fibers extend and protrude from the main surface. Usually, these fabrics tend to possess a “snowy” look, as if freshly fallen snow is sitting on the surface of the denim. The texture in this type of denim will be more noticeable on the surface of the fabric than the peeking glimpses of white in the composition of a slubby fabric.

Snowy Nep Whiskers.

Snowy Nep Whiskers

Loom chatter also plays a role in the production of nep denim. As noted, neppy denim usually has visible fibers exposed from the main surface of the fabric which are usually knots and broken fibers within the yarn that occur as it is spun and then woven. Loom chatter exacerbates the nepping process by further agitating the fibers and leaving them more exposed through the shaking and tangling of the yarn while the loom weaves.

Slubby Denim Products

Iron Heart 16 oz. Slubby Selvedge Denim Type II Jacket

Knowing Your Raw Denim: Slub and NepKnowing Your Raw Denim: Slub and Nep

Available for $425 from Iron Heart.

Naked & Famous Weird Guy Broken Twill Stretch Slub Selvedge Jeans

Knowing Your Raw Denim: Slub and NepKnowing Your Raw Denim: Slub and Nep

Available for $197 from REVOLVR.

The Strike Gold 10 oz. Grey Slub Selvedge Denim Work Shirt

The Strike Gold 10oz Grey Slub Selvedge Denim Work ShirtThe Strike Gold 10oz Grey Slub Selvedge Denim Work Shirt

Available for $181 from Redcast Heritage.

Shockoe Atelier Big Slub

Knowing Your Raw Denim: Slub and NepKnowing Your Raw Denim: Slub and Nep

Available for $285 from Shockoe Atelier.

Pure Blue Japan 16.5 oz.  SLB-003 Slub Denim Jeans

Pure Blue Japan SLB-003 "Slub Denim" 16.5oz Regular Straight JeansPure Blue Japan SLB-003 "Slub Denim" 16.5oz Regular Straight Jeans

Available for $299 from Redcast Heritage.

The Strike Gold SGJ50S 15 oz. Slub Grey Weft Selvedge Denim Jacket

The Strike Gold 15oz Slub Grey Weft Type II Denim Jacket styleThe Strike Gold 15oz Slub Grey Weft Type II Denim Jacket back

Available for $271 from Redcast Heritage.

Freenote Cloth Portola 17 oz. Black White Slub

Freenote Cloth Portola - 17oz Black White SlubFreenote Cloth Portola - 17oz Black White Slub

Available for $285 from Franklin & Poe.

Neppy Denim Products

The Unbranded Brand 18 oz. Neppy Indigo Selvedge Denim

The Unbranded Brand UB643 Relaxed Fit Heavyweight Neppy Selvedge 18ozThe Unbranded Brand UB643 Relaxed Fit Heavyweight Neppy Selvedge 18oz

Available for $175 from CULTIZM.

Freenote Cloth Lambert Shirt Black Nep Denim

Lambert- Black Nep DenimLambert- Black Nep Denim

Available for $300 from Iron Shop Provisions.

Dawson Denim Deck Pants DD05 10 oz. Neppy 2×1 Denim

Knowing Your Raw Denim: Slub and NepKnowing Your Raw Denim: Slub and Nep

Available for $342 from Dawson Denim.

ONI Asphalt Denim

Knowing Your Raw Denim: Slub and NepKnowing Your Raw Denim: Slub and Nep

Available for $315 from Blue in Green.