Five Plus One is our weekly series of buyer’s guides. We pick a specific category and dig up five great options along with one that’s a little outside the norm.
If you’re a seasoned denimhead, chances are you’re a fan of heavily textured denim. And while we like slub, twisted yarns, and loomchatter as much as the next person, today it’s all about the nep: those little nuggets of cotton that extend beyond the surface of the fabric to create a beautiful, snowy landscape. While there are a ton of excellent options out there, we’ve done our best to cover the wide array of what’s out there.
1) Joe & Co: Collier 03 15 oz. Japanese Red Line Neppy Selvedge Denim
There’s a lot to love about Joe & Co.‘s Collier Japanese Red Line Neppy Selvedge, but obviously, the fabric is the true standout. Aside from a large amount of nep, this fabric is quite smooth and uniform; it’s rare to find such a neppy denim with such a small amount of slub and other textural details.
Fabric aside, these jeans have high rise with a long yoke, a heavily tapered leg, and some beautiful back pocket detailing.
Available for $224 from Joe & Co.
2) Momotaro: 0306-82IE – Tight Tapered – 16oz US Revival Cotton
There are a lot of ways to give jeans texture beyond nep and slub, and one of our favorites is with decorative and functional sashiko stitching. Momotaro‘s 0306-82IE jeans have it all — a healthy dose of nep, a slubby texture, and sashiko detailing on the back pockets. Instead of paint, Momo used sashiko to apply its iconic ‘battle stripes’ to the right rear pocket — a point of difference you won’t find anywhere else.
These are made in Japan from 16 oz. Japanese Low Tension Slub Selvedge Denim and come fitted with a mid-rise, a tapered leg, zinc button fly, copper rivets, and of course, the brand’s famous pink selvedge ID.
Available for $315 from Division Road.
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3) SoSo: Japanese Nep Selvedge
There are a ton of great jeans out there, but sometimes you can’t find quite what you want premade — and that’s where SoSo comes in. Their Japanese Nep Selvedge is a solid, Japanese-milled 13 oz. fabric, which you can customize however you like; despite this customizability, these jeans stay firmly in the high-entry/low-mid tier with regards to price, and that’s a very attractive prospect.
Available for $189 from SoSo.
4) Oni: 246SESR “Secret Super Rough Denim” 20oz Selvedge Denim – Clean Straight Fit
If there is one brand that consistently has best neppy denim on the market it’s Oni. The Japanese label’s 246SESR is made from a 20 oz. fabric named Secret Super Rough Denim, which, as the name implies, is even rougher than their famous Secret Denim. Beyond the absurd amount of nep, these jeans feature raised belt loops, custom hardware, a natural weft, and attractive rear pocket arcuates.
Available for $230 from Hinoya.
5) Sugar Cane: Okinawa Jeans
Sugar Cane has made some great straight-cut jeans over the years, but their Okinawa Jeans are extra special. Based on the fit of the 1940 501s, these jeans are made with a highly neppy, 50%/50% sugar cane fiber/cotton unsanforized denim, and feature a python skin patch and back decorative back pocket stitching. These aren’t your father’s 501s, but that’s part of what makes them so special.
Available for $275 from Franklin & Poe.
Plus One – Dawson Denim : Deck Pants DD05 10OZ NEPPY 2X1
I’m as much a fan of classic, five-pocket jeans as the next person, but that doesn’t mean I can’t appreciate other styles of denim pants. And if there is any pair that of neppy denim pants that deserves some appreciation, it’s Dawson‘s DDO05 Deck Pants.
Based on the Deck Pants issued to Navy personnel in the early 20th century, these pants are made in England from a highly neppy, 2×1 Japanese twill, which some might argue is not “true” denim as it’s not a 3×1, but it gives them a unique textural look even beyond the nep. With patch front and rear pockets, corozo buttons, and no outseam, these pants truly are a truly special take on a naval classic.
Available for $345 from Dawson.
