Momotaro is a hugely influential denim label, especially in the realm of Japanese selvedge denim. Intrinsically linked to the infamous COLLECT Mills that supplies denim to dozens of storied makers across the globe, Momotaro has developed a core offering of some of the finest selvedge denim in the world across its Vintage, Copper, and Going to Battle Labels. But this release isn’t about any of that, it’s about showcasing the peak of artisanal indigo five-pocket jeans. It’s about the 0605-AI 13.5 oz. “Natural Indigo Aizome” Handy Dyed Natural Tapered Jeans.
Each pair represents the pinnacle of craftsmanship, taking up to a year to produce in extremely limited quantities.” – Redcast Heritage
Each pair of Momotaro 0605-AI is made from sanforized 13.5 oz. selvedge denim, the warp yarns of which have been hand-dyed using a traditional Aizome method and premium natural indigo. Indigofera leaves are naturally fermented over 100 days before being processed into natural indigo dye. Once the mature leaves have been made into dye, cotton yarns are dipped into the indigo dye once a day for 30 days. It’s easy to write this part of the process in a couple of sentences, but just take a moment to think about how much time, commitment, and knowledge it takes to dye cotton yarns in this way. 100 days is a long time — over 3 months — especially to wait for indigofera leaves to ferment whilst synthetic indigo is just one phone call away. This is commitment to traditional Japanese dyeing methods at its finest.
Once the warp yarns have been dipped 30 times, they are woven (presumably by COLLECT Mills, Okayama) into 13.5 oz. selvedge denim with a white weft, and individually sewn into five-pocket jeans in Momotaro’s ‘Relax Tapered’ cut. This silhouette has a roomy top block with a mid-to-high rise, and a taper through the leg toward a narrow hem opening.
To mirror the artisanal dyeing process used in the denim, Momotaro adorned the 0605-AI with premium details with rustic Japanese charm. The yoke is lined with silk, all hardware is .925 silver (including hand-hammered rivets), and the waist patch is made from hand-woven, natural indigo-dyed sashiko.
These jeans may be astronomically expensive, but they’re a collector’s item that represents an extreme antithesis of mass-produced denim goods. These aren’t end-tier, they’re god-tier.
Available from Recast Heritage for $1,695.
