Raw Japanese Denim: A Beginner’s Guide to Japan’s Biggest Labels

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Image via Paul Black and DC4

Stepping into the world of raw denim jeans can be a difficult process. Sizing, soaking, and sanforization—it’s all a different world when compared to simply trying on a pair of jeans in the mall. But if this website is a testament to anything, it’s that raw denim jeans are worth it. And once you’ve gone raw, you’re very unlikely to return to ‘normal’ jeans anytime soon.

As you will have gathered, Japan is the raw denim capital of the world. The Japanese have truly mastered the art of weaving the finest raw selvedge denim and crafting five-pocket jeans, so it comes as no surprise that most of the big labels in the raw denim scene are from Japan. In addition to producing jeans of paramount quality, Japanese raw denim brands have a level of mystique and flair that makes their jeans covetable by denim heads worldwide.

Japanese raw denim labels have a cult following that springs to life in forums like Superfuture, Styleforum, and Reddit, all of which can be very useful when researching raw denim jeans. But to a beginner, it can feel like seasoned denim heads talk in a language of their own. “The s710xx is great bro, a bit slimmer than Sugar Cane 1947s, but they’re 19oz. and loomstate!”.

For this reason, we’ve compiled a quick-stop guide to the big names in raw Japanese denim. From Samurai to Studio D’Artisan, we’ve identified the most discussed Japanese denim labels and their most commonly recommended models.

*This article is about Japanese raw denim labels. If you’re new to raw denim in general, check out our Raw Denim 101 and What is Selvedge Denim?

Burgus Plus

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Image via Okayama Denim

The in-house brand of Japanese denim and heritage superstore Hinoya, Burgus Plus offers high-quality, Japanese-made garments at an affordable price point. Started in 1997 by Osamu Taniguchi, Burgus Plus prides itself on ‘ultimate basics’ and takes inspiration from mid-century American garments. With this in mind, the brand offers a solid range of raw denim jeans and jackets in a variety of silhouettes. Burgus Plus mainly use mid-weight denim, including a 14.5 oz. natural indigo denim. If you want a slim, or slim-straight jean, Burgus Plus will certainly have some options for you.

Burgus Plus Key Silhouettes

955-xx

Fit: Slim Straight

Fabric: 14.5oz. Natural Indigo woven from indigo rope-dyed American cotton (with beige weft for a deeper tone).

Details: Leather patch, leather rivet-backings, pink twill pocket bags

Available for $135 from Sun House.

Lot 770Raw-Japanese-Denim-A-Beginner's-Guide-to-Japan's-biggest-labels-968-xx 

Fit: Slim Straight (circa 1968 Levi’s 501 -slimmer than the 955-xx)

Fabric: 15 oz. Raw Selvedge Denim (one wash)

Details: Goatskin leather waist patch, rivets, branded buttons, chain stitched hems and seat, pink selvedge ID

Available for $210 Clutch Cafe.

Lot. 771

Fit: Slim with mid rise and gentle taper through the leg

Fabric: 15 oz. Raw Selvedge Denim

Details: Goatskin leather waist patch, rivets, branded buttons, chain stitched hems and seat, rear pocket arcuates and embroidered sakura.

Available for $160 from Hinoya.

Full Count

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Images via Okayama Denim

One of the famed Osaka 5 that formed the Japanese denim scene in the late ’80s and early ’90s, Full Count is one of the most reputable Japanese denim labels out there. Founded by Mikiharu Tsujita in 1993, Full Count is known for its use of Zimbabwean extra-long-staple cotton in the production of denim. This luxury fiber produces denim that is tough and durable but with a much softer hand. Tsujita believes that Zimbabwean cotton creates denim that emulates the American denim of the ’40s and ’50s – something that Full Count works so hard to reproduce.

Price-wise, Full Count is up there with the more expensive labels, but if it’s vintage-style denim you’re after, it doesn’t get much better than this.

Full Count Key Silhouettes

1108

Fit: Slim Straight dubbed ‘new straight’ (1960s Levi’s 501 style)

Fabric: 13.75 oz.  Zimbabwean cotton raw selvedge denim

Details: Goatskin leather waist patch, custom hardware, made in Osaka, available in both raw and one wash variants

Available for $315 at Clutch Cafe

0105

Raw (left)vs one wash (right) Full Count 0105 Jeans

Fit: Wide straight

Fabric: 13.75 oz. Zimbabwean cotton raw selvedge denim

Details: One of the wider raw denim jeans on the market, goatskin leather waist patch, custom hardware, made in Osaka, available in one wash or raw variants.

Available at Clutch Cafe from $315

1101W

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Fit: Regular straight with a mild taper

Fabric: 13.75 oz. Zimbabwean cotton raw selvedge denim

Details:  Goatskin leather waist patch, custom hardware, made in Osaka, lemon yellow and golden copper stitching thread

Available for $350 from Blue in Green.

Iron Heart

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Images via Iron Heart

Initially founded in 2003 by Shinichi Haraki, Iron Heart appointed Englishman Giles Padmore in 2005 to manage their international sales. Soon after, Giles and Haraki formed a firm partnership that sees Iron Heart distributed widely in the Western world, with a head office in Portsmouth, England.

Iron Heart is known for its exceptionally built garments, but especially its heavyweight jeans that have seen the brand gain a cult following. The brand’s XHS 25 oz. denim is one of the heaviest on the market and is far from a gimmick. If you’re after slim jeans made from exclusive heavyweight raw denim fabrics, then Iron Heart won’t disappoint. You only have to check our Fade Friday features to see how these beastly jeans produce stunning, high-contrast fades.

Iron Heart Key Silhouettes

IH-666

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Image via Iron Heart

Fit: Slim straight

Fabric: Various

Details: Made in Japan, Iron Heart arcuates, chain stitch hems, custom hardware, leather waist patch

Available from $335 at Iron Heart.

IH-555

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Image via Iron Heart

Fit: Super slim Straight

Fabric: Various

Details: Made in Japan, Iron Heart arcuates, chain stitch hems, custom hardware, leather waist patch

Available from $420 at Iron Heart.

IH-777

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Image via Iron Heart

Fit: Super slim tapered

Fabric: Various

Details: Made in Japan, Iron Heart arcuates, chain stitch hems, custom hardware, leather waist patch

Available for $345 at Iron Heart.

Japan Blue

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Image via Robin Denim

Founded in 2010 by the folks at COLLECT Mills in Kojima, Japan Blue is just one of the brands under the ‘Japan Blue Group’ umbrella, which also includes Setto, Soulive, and Momotaro. Japan Blue uses the vast experience of the COLLECT Mills to create contemporary products that blend heritage denim details with modern silhouettes.

Japan Blue jeans are highly affordable, fundamental raw denim jeans without all the bells and whistles. Their motto ‘material is the key factor to jeans‘ says it all. Solid fabrics in a range of weights, colors, and silhouettes. If you’re just starting out with raw denim, Japan Blue is definitely a good brand to break that indigo seal.

Japan Blue Key Silhouettes

16.5oz. J266B ‘CIRCLE’ Monster Selvedge

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Image via Denimio

Fit: Slim tapered

Fabric: 16.5 oz. Japanese raw selvedge denim

Details: Slubby denim, branded leather waist patch, striped pocket bags

Available for $198 at Corlection.

J301

Fit: Listed as ‘regular straight, but more of a slim straight. Mid rise.

Fabric: 14.8 oz. Japanese raw selvedge denim (sanforized)

Details: Selvedge coin pocket, copper rivets, vegetable-tanned leather waist patch, custom engraved donut button, 100% American cotton.

Available for $181 from Redcast Heritage.

J401

Fit: Classic Straight leg with a mid to high rise.

Fabric: 14.8 oz. Japanese raw selvedge denim (sanforized)

Details: Selvedge coin pocket, copper rivets, vegetable-tanned leather waist patch, blue inseam stitch, 100% American cotton.

Available for $235 from Japan Blue.

Momotaro Jeans

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Image via Selvedge (left) & Style Forum (right)

Momotaro Jeans was founded in 2006. Hailing from Kojima, Japan, Momotaro Jeans is named after ‘Momotaro‘, a peach-boy character from Japanese folklore. The legend of Momotaro has it that Momotaro was born from a peach floating down a river. For this reason, Momotaro Jeans use their namesake as their logo, featuring Momotaro busting out of a peach (wearing jeans!).

Under the Japan Blue Group umbrella, Momotaro Jeans’ slogan is “made by hand, without compromise“. This motto rings true in the production of their jeans, which are handcrafted in the coastal district of Kojima to this very day. Momotaro jeans come in a range of fits, each using exclusive mid-weight denim that is woven on vintage Toyoda looms from Zimbabwean cotton.

Momotaro separates its jeans into three different labels, Copper Label, Vintage Label, and Going To Battle. Each label has a range of fits with different styling details, i.e. the Going To Battle Label is the line that features the brand’s infamous ‘battle stripe’ pockets. With silhouettes ranging from heavily tapered options to good ol’ straight leg, Momotaro is a globally successful denim brand that you can rely on for a solid pair of raw denim jeans.

Momotaro Key Silhouettes

0905

Fit: Straight leg

Fabric:

Details: Pink peach-inspired inseam thread, one-washed in shores of Okayama, battle stripe pocket detail

Available for $225 from Hinoya.

0205

Fit: Slim straight

Fabric: 15.7 oz. Momotaro raw  selvedge denim (100% Zimbabwean cotton)

Details: Pink peach-inspired inseam thread, branded leather waist patch, pink selvedge ID

Available for $225 from Hinoya.

0405

Fit: High Taper — a tapered fit with a high rise and relaxed seat.

Fabric: 15.7 oz. Momotaro raw selvedge denim (100% Zimbabwean cotton)

Details: Pink peach-inspired inseam thread, branded leather waist patch, pink selvedge ID, battle stripe pocket detail

Available for $286 from Corlection.

0306

Fit: Slim taper

Fabric: 15.7 oz. Momotaro raw selvedge denim (100% Zimbabwean cotton)

Details: Pink peach-inspired inseam thread, branded leather waist patch, pink selvedge ID, battle stripe pocket detail

Available for $264 from Corlection.

ONI

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Image via Denimio

A brand shrouded in mystery, ONI is also named after a character from the Japanese legend of Momotaro. Japanese folklore describes that the peach boy Momotaro travelled to a mysterious island to battle an Oni, the Japanese term for a supernatural demon or ogre.

ONI was founded by Mr. Oishi, a prominent figure in Japanese denim who made his name working for Levi’s Japan andd playing a part in establishing early Japanese denin label, Canton Jeans. The brand is famed for its slubby, irregular, heavyweight denim that is genuinely unique, woven at low tension to produce a beautifully imperfect fabric with bundles of texture. If you want a pair of jeans with unrivalled character, ONI is definitely worth looking into.

ONI Key Silhouettes

266

Fit: Relaxed straight

Fabric: 20 oz. ‘Secret’ Raw Selvedge Denim

Details: Low tension weave creates slubby denim with a rough hand, chain stitched hems, branded waist patch, beige weft yarn, selvedge coin pocket

Available for $325 for Blue in Green.

622

Fit: Relaxed taper

Fabric: 20 oz. ‘Secret’ Raw Selvedge Denim

Details: Low tension weave creates slubby denim with a rough hand, chain stitched hems, branded waist patch, beige weft yarn, selvedge coin pocket

Available for $325 from Blue in Green.

Pure Blue Japan

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Right image via Okayama Denim

Seen as one of the most progressive and unique Japanese denim brands, Pure Blue Japan pushes the boundaries of raw denim with artisanal fabrics that look like no other in terms of color, texture, and weave. Based in Okayama, Pure Blue Japan has been operating since 1997.

The brand uses yarn-dyeing—a process where the cotton yarns are dyed prior to weaving—to create their raw denim, which is notorious for its slubby texture. Often abbreviated as PBJ, Pure Blue Japan specializes in slim, contemporary fits with a small hem opening. Each pair of PBJs features their iconic embroidered  feather emblem on the back pocket. If you’re looking for a pair of heavily tapered jeans with heaps of fading potential, balling out on a pair of PBJs will leave you very satisfied.

Pure Blue Japan Key Silhouettes

XX-013

Fit: Slim Tapered

Fabric: 14 oz. PBJ Original Slubby Japanese Selvedge Denim

Details: Signature Pure Blue Japan leaf embroidery on back pocket, blue selvedge ID, HBT pocket bags

Available for $326 from Blue in Green.

XX-019

Fit: Relax tapered (roomier top block than the XX-013)

Fabric: 14 oz. PBJ Original Slubby Japanese Selvedge Denim

Details: Signature Pure Blue Japan leaf embroidery on back pocket, blue selvedge ID, HBT pocket bags

Available for $340 from Blue in Green.

XX-003

Fit: Slim straight

Fabric: 14 oz. PBJ Original Slubby Japanese Selvedge Denim

Details: Signature Pure Blue Japan leaf embroidery on back pocket, blue selvedge ID, HBT pocket bags

Available for $257 from Redcast Heritage.

Samurai Jeans

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Founded in 1997 by Toru Nogami (Nogami-san), Samurai Jeans is one of the most revered Japanese raw denim brands in the scene. Despite not being part of the initial raw denim boom pioneered by the Osaka 5, Samurai Jeans (also Osaka-based) has carved a reputation through its solid range of indigo goods that blend Americana influences with Japanese heritage.

The brand uses a range of fabric weights, with the core offering being their signature 19 0z. raw denim with silver selvedge ID, representing the Samurai’s sword. Samurai takes huge pride in the identity of their jeans, often conjuring up different rivet details, arcuates, and leather waist patches for each model.

If you’re looking for something heavyweight, robust, and distinctly Japanese, Samurai will tick those boxes and more.

Samurai Key Silhouettes

S710

Fit: Slim Straight

Fabric: 19 oz. Japanese exclusive raw selvedge denim

Details: Silver selvedge ID, goatskin leather waist patch, tonal back-pocket arcuates, red pocket tab, heavyweight twill pocket bags

Available for $355 at Franklin and Poe.

S5000

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Image via Samurai Jeans

Fit: Regular Straight

Fabric: 21 oz. exclusive raw selvedge denim

Details: Silver selvedge ID, goatskin leather waist patch, tonal back-pocket arcuates, red pocket tab, heavyweight twill pocket bags

Available for $388 at Franklin & Poe.

S510

Fit: Regular Straight (wider than the S5000 with a higher rise)

Fabric: 21 oz. exclusive raw selvedge denim

Details: Silver selvedge ID, goatskin leather waist patch, tonal back-pocket arcuates, red pocket tab, heavyweight twill pocket bags

Available for $388 from Franklin & Poe.

S511

Fit: Slim tapered

Fabric: Samurai signature 19 oz. raw selvedge denim

Details: Silver selvedge ID, goatskin leather waist patch, tonal back-pocket arcuates, red pocket tab, heavyweight twill pocket bags

Available for $287 from Corlection.

Sugar Cane

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Image via Pinterest

Sitting under the Toyo Enterprise umbrella, Sugar Cane is a revered Japanese repro-denim label appreciated by denim heads across the globe. Guided by Yuichi Fukutomi, Sugar Cane has meticulously researched work and menswear of a bygone era to inform its thoroughly built reproductions down to the smallest details like stitch count and rivet placement.

Sugar Cane’s Hawaii Denim that features 50% sugar cane fibers. Image via Frankin & Poe.

Famed for their accessible 1947 cut jean that comes in around $200, Sugar Cane typically uses mid-weight, ringspun Japanese selvedge denim, woven on original narrow shuttle looms that were commonplace in the 1930s. In addition, the brand produces a unique, custom denim made from a 50/50 blend of cotton and actual sugar cane fibers that give the fabric a slubby, irregular texture.

Sugar Cane Key Silhouettes

SC1947

Fit: Straight leg (1947 Levi’s 501 repro)

Fabric: 14oz. double ring-spun raw selvedge denim

Details: Meticulous reproduction, copper rivets, button fly, branded leather waist patch

Available for $210 at Franklin & Poe.

Hawaii Jean

Fit: Regular straight

Fabric:  14.25 oz. Japanese one-wash selvedge, 50% cotton – 50% sugarcane fibers

Details: Unique denim, hair-on horsehide Patch from Hawaii, ornate rear pocket embroidery

Available for $210 at Franklin & Poe.

Studio D’Artisan

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Images via Fashion Path Finder Tokyo and Red Cast Heritage Co.

Part of the famed Osaka 5, Studio D’Artisan is a playful Japanese denim brand with something for everyone. With its infamous buta (pig) branding, Studio d’Artisan manages to balance heritage designs with light-hearted details that breathe a new lease of life into archetypal mid-century designs. Founded in 1979, Studio D’Artisan was the first Japanese denim label to use deadstock hardware on their jeans and the first to create shuttle loom woven hank dyed jeans in Japan. Today, the brand offers a wide range of jeans ranging from super slim all the way to wide-straight.

Studio D’Artisan Key Silhouettes

D-01

Fit: Straight leg

Fabric: 15 oz. Hank Dyed Natual Indigo Japanese selvedge denim

Details: First Studio D’Artisan model, natural indigo denim with an artisanal dyeing process, SDA arcuates, cinch back

Available for $315 at Hinoya.

SD-107

Fit: Tight straight

Fabric: 15 oz. unsanforized Japanese selvedge denim

Details: Contemporary fit, button fly, branded leather waist patch, woven coin pocket tab, blue selvedge ID

Available for $200 at Hinoya.

SD-103

Fit: Slim straight

Fabric: 15 oz. unsanforized Japanese selvedge denim

Details: Button fly, branded leather waist patch, woven coin pocket tab, blue selvedge ID, iconic SDA arcuates

Available for $200 at Hinoya.

SD-101

Fit: Regular Straight

Fabric: 15 oz. unsanforized Japanese selvedge denim

Details: Button fly, branded leather waist patch, woven coin pocket tab, blue selvedge ID

Available for $200 at Hinoya.

The Flat Head

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Right image via Supertalk

Founded in Nagano Prefecture, Japan, in 1996, The Flat Head is a no-expenses-spared love affair with Americana-style clothing. Brand director Kobayashi-san has a rich history of dealing with American denim and has honed his knowledge to create some of the most reputable raw denim jeans on the market. Kobayashi insists on paramount quality within each step of the brand’s production process, resulting in raw denim jeans that are built to last and age beautifully. Kobayashi has famously stated:

“At the time of purchase the product is only 50% complete, but that this completeness level rises with repeated wearing as the product begins to meld itself to the unique shape of each individual.”

The Flat Head specializes in slimmer cuts, made from exclusive mid-weight denim that is famed for its potential to yield high-contrast fades. Each pair comes with a branded goat leather waist patch, custom hardware, and The Flat Head’s signature arcuates.

The Flat Head Key Silhouettes

3009

Fit: Regular straight

Fabric: 14.5oz unsanforized Japanese selvedge Denim

Details: Rope dyed warp yarns, goat leather waist patch, custom hardware, red selvedge ID

Available for $315 at Franklin & Poe.

3002

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Image via Rakuten

Fit: Slim tapered

Fabric: 14.5oz unsanforized Japanese selvedge Denim

Details: Zipper fly, Rope dyed warp yarns, goat leather waist patch, custom hardware, red selvedge ID

Available for $315 at Franklin & Poe.

TCB

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Image via Redcast Heritage

The youngest label in this guide, TCB is a Japanese denim label that has risen to success in the last decade. TCB— an abbreviation for both ‘taking care of business’ and ‘two cats brand’—was founded by Hajime Inoue in 2008. An ex-denim apprentice, Inoue-san used his knowledge of  Japanese denim craft and vintage American jeans to conceive his own brand. Today, TCB is known for its charming reproductions of classic American jeans, built with immense craftsmanship and Japanese flare.

What makes TCB so special is how small its range of jeans is. Separated into ’20s, ’50s, and ’60s styles, TCB has aimed to master the archetypal fits of those eras. If you’re after heavily tapered, contemporary jeans, TCB won’t be your solution. But if it’s high-quality, classic straight-legged jeans you’re interested in, TCB has got you covered.

TCB Key Silhouettes

50s

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Image via Redcast Heritage

Fit: Wide straight (50s Levi’s 501 repro)

Fabric: 13.5 oz raw selvedge denim

Details: Accessible price-point, charming reproduction product, paper waist patch, pink selvedge  ID, red pocket tab

Available for ~$185 at Redcast Heritage

60s

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Image via Redcast Heritage

Fit: Slim straight

Fabric: 13.5 oz selvedge denim

Details: Accessible price-point,  charming reproduction product, paper waist patch, pink selvedge  ID, red pocket tab

Available for ~$180USD at Redcast Heritage.

40s

Fit: Straight leg (1940s WWII Levi’s 501XX repro)

Fabric: 14 oz. unsanforized one-wash selvedge Japanese Denim (indigo warp, cream weft)

Details: Faithful WWII reproduction product, leather waist patch, pink selvedge  ID, red pocket tab, slubby textured denim, steel rivets

Available for $212 at Redcast Heritage.

Warehouse & Co.

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Warehouse & Co. was founded in 1995 by Kenichi and Koji Shiotani, making it the youngest of the Osaka 5 brands. Both Kenichi and Koji were previously involved with an incarnation of Evisu, but a difference in philosophy led them to depart and pursue their own denim dreams. They created Warehouse with the intention of faithfully producing vintage mid-century jeans, down to the last detail. They reinforced this philosophy with their motto—“The faithful reproduction of authentic vintage garments.”

Warehouse & Co. entered the denim industry with its Lot. 1001xx model raw denim jeans, which remains the brand’s calling card to this day. With a loose-straight fit that mirrors Levi’s 501XX jeans from the 1950s in terms of fabric and construction, the Lot. 1001 encapsulates the Shiotani brother’s passion for vintage denim through period-correct details like iron buttons, copper rivets, a red rayon pocket tab, and curved rear pocket arcuates. The brand continues to make the Lot.1001, but treats it like Levi’s treated their 501, issuing it in different cuts and fabrics.

“Once people wear an authentic pair of jeans, they may realize or rediscover the true charm of the garment. I think more and more people will love to wear jeans through the experience, just like us who have been steeped in it since the first time we wore vintage jeans.” – Koji Shiotani speaking to Beams Plus

Warehouse Key Silhouettes

Lot 1000

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Fit: Straight leg with high rise  (WWII repro)

Fabric: Warehouse exclusive 13.3 oz. raw selvedge denim

Details: Pink selvedge ID, deerskin leather patch, chain stitch runoff on waistband, iron tack buttons, painted arcuates reminiscent of WWII thread rationing

Available for $325 from Clutch Cafe.

Lot 1001 (Duck Digger Label)

Fit: Straight leg (1947 Levi’s 501 repro)

Fabric: Warehouse & Co’s infamous “Banner Denim” – a blend of Tennessee, Texas and Arizona cotton — 13.5 oz. selvedge denim (one wash)

Details: Yellow selvedge ID, copper rivets, iron buttons, Duck Digger pocket arcuates, button fly

Available for $290 from Clutch Cafe.

Lot 800

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Fit: Slim straight

Fabric: Warehouse exclusive 14.5 oz. raw selvedge denim

Details: Yellow selvedge ID, steel rivets, neppy irregular fabric, deerskin leather patch

Available for $190 at Hinoya.

Lot 900

Fit: Slim tapered

Fabric: 13.5 oz. raw selvedge denim

Details: Yellow selvedge ID, copper rivets, iron buttons,  denim made from a blend of Memphis cotton from the U.S.A.

Available for $190 from Hinoya.